Question about Maytag MFD2560HES Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator

Open Question

Maytag refrigerator does not restart after power blip

If the power flickers the compressor will not run until the refrigerator is unplugged and reset! Have lost 2 freezers full of food because of this

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag (Amana) ABC2037DES Refrigerator not cooling

Your condenser coil is frozen up with condensate...need to fix the defrost system, most likely it is the control sub module.

Posted on Aug 20, 2007

watugot
  • 290 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag msd2454gr

The click is not normal. The compressor is not starting and is tripping the overload. There is a chance the start relay on the compressor is shorted, but most likely the compressor will have to be replaced.
Unplug it for several hours until the compressor cools down and then try it again, if it starts up ok when it is cool the compressor is the problem for sure.
If it is less than 5 yrs old the compressor is still covered by warranty and will be replaced free of charge.

Posted on Dec 07, 2007

  • 291 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag freezer & refrigerator not coold enough

It's not cool If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”


  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.


Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor


  • The Thermostat


  • The overload, relay, or capacitor


  • The defrost timer


  • The condenser fan motor


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. I feel heat/warmth on the front edge of my refrigerator....why?
 
Older refrigerators had electric heaters on the edges of the refrigerator cabinet to help prevent moisture from building up, especially in the hot/hazy weather in the summer time. These electric heaters usually had a switch where you could turn them on or off...had words like..."switch here to prevent moisture"...switch here in damp weather".... in the picture it is in the top left of the control assembly.
Then along came the energy crunch. The manufactures stopped using the electric heaters and started running a pass of the hot condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the electric heaters use to be. This is often called ayoder loop tube SxS version and the yoder loop tube Top freezer version. This has now replaced the electric heaters. If you feel heat/hot around the door opening of your refrigerator you should....
clean the condenser coils as a dirty condenser can make the tubing hotter than normal
- check/clean & replace if necessary the condenser cooling fan   ( # F ) motor, if the condenser fan motor is slow or has quit the yoder loop pass will get very warm/hot to the touch
- If the condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running ok, check the fresh food and freezer section temperatures...if the refrigerator is not operating well and the temps inside are warming up, you could feel more heat/warmth than normal

Posted on Apr 03, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Freezer coils keep freezing up.

I had a similar problem with a Maytage Side-by-SIde Model MDZ2768GEW, (purchased in 2001). Defrost not working...poor cooling in both the freezer and fridge. We opened up the back of the Freezing side and the coils were iced. This Model is auto defrost so obviously something was not working. We called a Sears repair office and they sent a guy that told us we needed to defrost the unit. Well...I wasn't home and my father-in-law didn't question it - he defrosted it! I was busy at the time and didn't pursue it until the problem naturally resurfaced a month or so later. Not wanting to haggle with Sears over their Tech's lazy incompetence (or the $100 I was out), I decided to commence troubleshooting. I'm an ex Navy nuke electrician and electrical engineer so this didn't seem to be beyond my ability. Not having the Owners Manual, I internet searched until I found this site: www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/html/index.html. You can download your model's Service Manual and root around for other tech info their. I found the manual for mine and performed the troubleshooting for the Adaptive Defrost Control. Its fairly easy to do and you don't have to empty the entire fridge. You do have to empty the upper shelf in the fresh food (cooler) side to gain access to the controls. --This may not be in the exact order needed but you remove the light shield by pulling down on the back corners of the cover and sliding it forward (slotted attachment - no screws). Next Remove several screws holding the fascia / radiant shield on. Then remove screws that mount the control housing to top of fridge, etc. I also removed two screws that mount the ADC to the plastic housing to get access to the ADC. Basically, remove enough screws to lower the top assembly down to get to the ADC... --You may need to turn off the fridge now (or do it before you started the previous steps but the light helped me). If you are not using a Wattmeter, I don't think you need to pull the power cord. --The Service Manual next says to attach a Wattmeter to the fridge (and assumedly plug it back in). Most people don't have a Wattmeter...but what I had is a clamp-on ammeter...which you can get as part of "better" multi-meters for well under $100. An ammeter is good enough if you know how to multiply voltage and current to get VA (or approximately) Watts. Any idiot can do this...I think. P(Power) = V x I x pf. What you calculate with VxI is Apparent Power (VA). You convert to "real" power (Watts) by multiplying VA x pf. You generally have to guess at pf, but 0.8 for a motor/compressor is a good approximation and 1.0 for a heater or indandescent light bulb is roughly good. Enough electrical basics... --With Fridge plugged in, and being careful not to touch exposed connections, move the ADC control board so you can gain access to it (2 screws were removed previously to loosen it from the housing at top/back right of fresh food side). The ADC is a small printed ckt board about 3" x 3". --Use a small insulated jumper (or insulated alligator clip) and jumper Pins labeled "L1" and "Test". These are labeled on the PC board and were the two left-most pins, side by side, on my ADC. The Manual doesn't say whether to leave the jumper on or not. I tried both ways and I believe all you need to do is momentarily jumper the two pins (but my ADC wasn't working right, which I will get to later)...so I'm a bit unclear on this part. Also - DO NOT jumper between any other pins, or you may damage the ADC, if it's not toast already. The pins are close together so you need to take some care in doing this. --According to the Service Manual, you should read about 500-600 Watts of total power consumption if the unit is in Defrost mode. I found (referring to the electrical schematic), the main red power wire (ty-wrapped to a green/yellow wire that goes to the main lights). Power is red so it's process of elimination to find the "right" red wire. It's not that hard to figure out. I also confirmed this by playing with the door switch light and watching amps go up and down as I pressed & released the door switch. Ultimately, I measured about 2.2 Amps with the unit working normally (cooling) and 6 Amps in Defrost mode...and about 120 Vac supply. So...VoltsxAmps=VA, which equates to 720VA. I don't know what the power factor of the unit is...but with the compressor and freezer fan off, and only the defrost heater and lights on...the power factor would be close to 1.0. So my reading might have been a touch high but...what it did prove is that a) the heater works (I could feel heat off of it and I had the freezer panel removed and saw it melting ice), and b) the thermostat was working. --I also confirmed proper thermostat operation by measuring it "open" with an ohmmeter after the defrost cycle and measuring it "closed" once it cooled down enough (book says ~ 45F thermostat opens and ~15F it closes (to allow defrost when commanded by ADC). --What I found was that when I jumpered L1 and TEST, the Defrost didn't come on...until I manually turned the Freezer control off - and then back on again. Once I did this it started Defrosting (amps rose from about 2 to 6, compressor and freezer fan shut off and heater started heating. I repeated this twice after waiting for the unit to cool down after the defrost cycle. You can also just unplug the fridge to terminate the Defrost cycle and if the temp hasn't risen above the thermostat setpoint, you can immediately repeat jumper testing as necessary. --The defrost heater stayed on for about 5-8 minutes and after a total of 23 minutes the compressor/fan restarted - which matched what I read somewhere - though doesn't match the ADC Instruction Manual - which I show a website for further down. --So it appears the ADC is just not entering the Defrost cycle but does exit it properly. I believe that my problem is the ADC as I proved the heater works and the thermostat (as I mentioned earlier). Other than bad/intermittent open wiring, there's nothing else in the circuit and I believe I ruled out a bad connection by taking the thermostat connector apart several times and jostling wires up at the ADC to gain access. According to what I can find, the replacement ADC for my unit is Part No. 12002495. One should verify the P/N for their particular model. You can look at the Instruction Sheet here: www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16023486.pdf. It also has some info on how the ADC is supposed to work...NOTE: You should verify this P/N with someone, as I will before I order it. FYI...at Partselect.com, they show a replacement PN (their #) as PS2061226, for about $61. I've seen various prices on different sites and this was pretty reasonable. Lord knows what Maytag/Sears would charge. Maybe add a "1" to the front? ;) PartSelect also indicates different "Series" numbers for the same PS number for the ADC...not sure about which one I have so Buyer beware, make sure you resolve this before ordering -- I still have to. Anyway, hope this is helpful to someone out there in cyberspace. I will have to confirm my P/N and then buy the ADC. If anyone out there, esp pros, have any suggestions feel free to chime in. Except if you are the guy that told us to defrost our auto defrost fridge to "fix" the problem, for 100 smackers no less. You Sir, should be caned 100 times for being a slug. No economic stimulus for You!

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: how mucn does a compressor for a refrigerator cost

You probably do not need a new compressor . Pluged onto the side of the compressor , is an overload/relay , which usually goes bad instead of the compressor . Pt # 12002784 . But , if the compressor was actually bad , I would estimate $ 528 - $ 700 , for replacement .

Posted on Nov 19, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Why did the control panel go dark on my Maytag side by side refrigerator for a couple of hours?


Ron,
You're right to be concerned but I'd just keep an eye on it for the time being - if it ain't broke, don't fix it!! It's entirely possible that it's throwing a hissy fit after the power outages and it just needs peace and quiet so it can settle down!

Sep 22, 2015 | Maytag Refrigerators

1 Answer

Compressor willstop working. I have to unplug power cord for 10 second then plug it to restart


This is a common problem for your GSL25JFR . It is very likely a defective=> WR55X10942 Main Control Board Usally when this happens the start relay, overload and run capacitor are also changed when replacing the WR55X10942 Main Control Board. I'm here should you want my assistance,Thanks, John Tripp Appliance 911
Contact Me Here

Feb 26, 2014 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Maytag refrigerator Model mff2557heb wont cool


The compressor in your refig is bad. whats happening is when you let the compressor cool down it will run for a while then it starts binding internally until it gets to the point of humming and clicking. only repair is replacing the compressor. sorry for the bad news...

Sep 30, 2012 | Maytag MFF2557HE Bottom Freezer French...

1 Answer

Goodman compressor not running after power outage


no reset replace capacitors. check terminals on compressor to see if a wire burned off

Jul 31, 2012 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Refrigerator an freezer has stop cooling, fan still running


This could be simply the defrost timer is stuck in defrost. I see you mentioned fan but stopped there. If one fan has stopped I need to know before we do these steps Click Here=> Maytag MTF2155GRW Control Panel item number 15 is the defrost timer and should have a hole below it entering the fresh food compartment. Sometimes there is a plastic plug covering hole to hide its opening. Pry plug away and use a flathead screwdriver to turn timer clockwise until compressor either stops or starts. If the compressor stops leave like this for up to 30 minutes. This should be manual defrost. and if it does not come out of defrost gently turn timer again slowly until compressor restarts. If you need to do this the timer will need replaced. Part number=> 68233-3 Now if both candensor and evaporator fans are running I believe you may just have a problem with your start relay/overload part=>12002782 and run capacitor part=> 65889-4 The top of compressor will be very hot if that is the case. Here is a photo location=> Maytag MTF2155GRW Compressor Components number 4 and 6 in photo. If any fans do not work they must be repalaced, Let me know what you find, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Feb 22, 2011 | Maytag MTF2155GRW Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

I have a Maytag MSD2454GRQ frig and frezzer not getting cold, fan is running and making a clicking sound


replace the ptc overload relay located on the compressor in the lower rear of the unit,by unplugging the component after removing the spring wire that holds it onto the compressor,replace it along with the capacitor if equipped and re-install in reverse procedure,this part is what powers the compressor and protects it too

Jan 17, 2011 | Maytag MZD2766GES Side by Side...

1 Answer

The fan is running, the fridge trys to start the compressor frequent, but it stops in one minute.


That sounds like short cycling and could be defective compressor start relay, overload and Capacitor need to be replaced. The longer it tries to start the hotter the compressor gets so I believe until these parts=> 67005560 Start Relay With Overload and Run Capacitor 65889-4 are checked or replaced you need to unplug. It also could be your compressor is not in good shape. If you would like to test your compressor follow these instructions here=> Whirlpool Products The location for these parts are here=> Maytag MFD2560HES and in photos part 10 and 11. I will assist you in any way if needed, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Make sure both fans run at all times compressor runs because fans do not always stop when they go bad. They run when they want to.

Jan 12, 2011 | Maytag MFD2560HES Bottom Freezer French...

1 Answer

I noticed an unusual high pitch sound which I traced back to the refrigerator. I then noticed that the front panel lights were flickering on and off and so was the external ice maker lid. I turned the...


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. First off the high pitched sound you heard was most likely ice build up on the evaporator so th evaporator fan blades were striking the ice. Now as for your shutting of the unit and staring right back up..... You need to wait 15 - 20 minutes of OFF time when ever there is a power interruption. What is happening now is that the compressor can not restart because the coolant pressures are to high. That 15 - 20 mins of off time will afford that pressure stabilization time.

What you really need to do is remove the freezer contents and place a fan blowing into the freezer compartment to manually defrost the freezer evaporator. (about 2 hours of floor fan time) This should get rid of the high pitched noise. Then.... restart the unit. It should restart.

I suspect that you have an automatic defrost problem is why you had the noise. The manual defrost will only get you 2 - 3 days of normal operation again before it once again starts the icing routine. I want to get this off now to get you started on the manual defrost. I will respond with a 2nd post about the defrost problem.

Your to do list...
1. unplug the unit.
2. Manual defrost with floor fan (2 hours of fan and water mess)
3. Restart the unit
4. Watch for next post about defrost.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.
Kelly

Dec 09, 2010 | Maytag MFI2568AES Stainless Steel Bottom...

1 Answer

Mayatg gc2327pw fridge section has stopped working the freezer is still operating. The cold air is not comming out of the vent at the back of the fridge section.


The first thing I would check is the defrost timer located in the fresh food section behind the control panel. Turner timer clockwise until compressor stops running. Leave in that position for up to 30 min. or until refrigerator restarts. If unit does not restart turn again until it starts and replace timer. #13 in picture Part number 61003601 at my site http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/
Let me know if you have any questions or need further assistance. Sea Breeze
10c2039.gif

Jun 27, 2009 | Maytag Matag 25.6 Cu Ft Side By Side...

1 Answer

Frigerator runs constanly till compresser gets to hot


Sounds like it might be the thermostat
sensor bulb is defective see if you can
turn the refrigerator off with the thermostat
the defrost heater is supposed to heat up
enough to open the defrost thermostat

Make sure the defrost timer works to
turn on lhe heater & turn off the defrost tstat
turn the power off and check the tstat & defrost
heater for continuity check to see if tstat open
and closes when you turn the knob,

if you remove the tstat you can check the
bulb in ice water and warm water aborv 40
to see if tstat cycles on and off

Nov 26, 2007 | Maytag MSD2650H Side by Side Refrigerator

Not finding what you are looking for?
Maytag MFD2560HES Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator Logo

Related Topics:

32 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Maytag Refrigerators Experts

Bailey's...
Bailey's...

Level 2 Expert

221 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

74945 Answers

isaac johny
isaac johny

Level 3 Expert

796 Answers

Are you a Maytag Refrigerator Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...