Plastic parts inside the control panel are broken?
When I took off the control panel, I noticed that the plastic parts that push the cycle are broken except one. How can I get this fixed or pick up the parts for this? Will I have to get a brand new control panel?
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You may have to break the little handle off to open it and order a new door latch mechanism. Just be careful. This is a lip latch so it wont be hard if you can get to where the latch connects. Use the internet and model to order new one.
Check the brackets that hold the top rack for any broken plastic brackets. My dishwasher was making the same noise and after noticing the broken plastic pieces I pulled out the dishwasher put it on its side removed a white panel on the bottom that is attached with two screws, removed the drain line and inside there were two plastic tabs from the broken bracket. Once those were removed the grinding noise stopped. The bracket holding the drain hose can be removed with a pair of pliers.
did you have any plastic in it like a tupperware or anything for a baby?the water sprays so hard that it sometimes pushes plastic cookware or whatever out of the racks and it lands on the heater and melts the plastic,also if overloading the racks the plastic wheels pop off and burn on the heater,if not this then you'll have to kill the power and start looking for a broken wire on the door,amelted wire nut where the power wires are connected to the machine or the motor smoked up,could be anything,were you near the machine when it happened?could you see where the smoke was coming out of,under the machine or inside,also next time send the model number
Just had same problem. Checked and cleaned spray arms filter and impellor. Still had problem. Noticed that it appeared to be expeling water to drain at wrong time. Openned mid cycle and noticed water level low. Took off left side panel to reveal pipework. Main pipe route big oblong in clear plastic had a red valve at the top which was gunged. This was the air release so when water is pumped in air has nowhere to go so it pushes water out through the waste so ther is too little water in machine. Removed this component and used caustic soda to dissolve food waste blocking valve as there is no access. Put it back together and now it works fine. Took about 2 hours (1 hour for caustic to work) no special tools other than star screwdriver required as it all unclips.
I took the bottom cover panel off even though there was another panel behind it the plastic tray nderneath was full of waste water. I took the 2nd panel off and found that a rubber cap attached to the waste pump has a hole in it, I got the replacement part for $5.00AU and the dishwasher is now working fine.
I removed the inner door panel and found the handle broken. It has integrally molded plastic pins that provide a pivot for the handle to push against the release assembly. These were broken off. Also noticed that there were some small fingers molded on the back of the switch panel that were snapped off. I'm not sure what these are for and I can't see how they are needed for the latch operation. My hunch is that they aid in positioning the handle during factory assembly. I'm NOT going to buy a new switch panel to replace these!
I don't know why the handle broke but it did so in stages. I think one pin broke, and then everything else broke because of added misalignment and stress. The good news: a new handle only costs about $10 and I'll have it in a couple of days.
It is a problem with the water heating cycle, the dishwasher pauses after it has filled with water, waiting for the water to reach the pre-set temperature. A thermic sensor will allow the machine to restart the cycle after the water reaches the required temperature. In your machine the thermostat is defective and the machine waits too long, that is also the reason for the too high temperature melting plastic.
The plastic latch release inside the door handle is broken. Most likely one of the pins holding it in place has broken.
First go to your local dishwasher supplier and look at a similar brand (GE Profile in my case) and see how the mechanism works. Next, get a thin pair of siccors, pull the dishwasher handle down and slid the siccors into the opening above the handel and push the tab holding the door closed up so it will release.
Once the door is open, remove the inside of the door to get to the latch. Remove the plastic latch release and order a new one.
I am trying to fix the same problem. There is a clear plastic frame around the controller that has small plastic arms that the button pushes against. You will find that it has broken off and fallen inside the door. I managed a temporary fix by unscrewing the door panels finding the buts. Remove the clear frame it clips to the controller once you unscrew it from inside the door. I then used super glue to glue it back together. Fix is temporary only lasted 3 weeks and broke again. What you need to do is find a replacement clear frame.
The Control module on our SHU43 blew this morning and when I took it apart to get the module out, I discovered why two of the Cycle selections no longer worked..... the little plastic lever that pushed the switch behind the fascia button - had broken off. You may have the same issue. It's not a cheap fix though as a new module is gonna cost me $175.