Question about Delta Machinery Delta ShopMaster DP350 12" Variable Speed Bench Drill Press, 500-3100 RPM, 1/3 HP

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Pin comes out on the fly on motor pulley... Collar rides up and pulley run off kilter.

The pin comes out of the pulley all on it's own. Any suggestions?

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I assume this is a solid pin that isn't tight enough. Replace it with a rollpin. Google images if you are not sure what that is. Most hardware stores carry them. If you already have a rollpin, you might have to drill to the next size.

Posted on Jan 02, 2013

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1 Answer

PB30 - 96025000300 (2011-01)


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1 Answer

John deere 855-70 manual


On ALL Deere riding lawn mowers, 1st, position the deck under the tractor. Depending on the belt drive: either PTO (the yellow button on the dash panel), or tension engaged-(a lever on the right side of the operator\'s seat), you loop the drive belt from the front of the deck to the pulley, always in the lower front area of the tractor\'s engine. If it has "beltguards" too close to the pulley, you must loosen the retaining bolt for the guard, it will allow the belt to squeeze by and onto the pulley. Then, 2nd but don\'t forget to retighten after slipping the belt on, push the "Deck heighth" lever fwd to drop the deck "hangars" at the rear of the deck into position to "pin" the eyelets with the supplied pins, washers and keepers: usually a cotter pin or a lynchpin that inserts thru a hole on the smooth bolt-pin. The easy part\'s over, but don\'t panic. 3rd, lift the front of the deck onto a block, allowing a heighth to apply the "adjusting rod" into the front of the mower chassis. Screw the retaining nut onto the threaded (long bolt) and remove the block. You\'re done. Next, and very important, RAISE & LOWER the deck, engage the belt tension, (here you may have to clear the area and start the engine to engage the PTO drive, if it\'s electronically controlled belt-drive), this assures nothing is "misaligned" or improperly positioned. Now, if the machine is on a flat surface, lower the deck to a point just above the ground and measure the distance in four (4) corners of the deck and record the ht. Make the adjustments to LEVEL the deck. Now you\'re ready to start the engine from the operator\'s seat, slightly increase the engine from idle to 1/4 throttle speed so that engaging the drive belt won\'t kill the engine. Ensure the belts run smoothly, the blades turn, and the engine doesn\'t "bog". Lower the deck to a desired cutting ht., now MOW the grass!

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

HAVE A R608P MTD TRACTOR. THE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING. HOW DO YOU CHECK THE GREASE IN THE LOWER HOUSING? WHAT ELSE COULD CAUSE IT TO SLIP AND THEN GRAB?


It's not the transmission. If anything inside that transmission breaks it stops permanently! I think that your "slippage" is somewhere between the drive belt on the motor and transmission....which could be a worn belt or a weak or broken tensioning pulley.. or a little of both..but if they look good the what it is I would be pretty sure...at the bottom of the motor where the first pulley in bolted onto the crankshaft...... the shaft has a morse taper which holds it on tight...but it also has a dreft pin which is generally has multiple functionality in that it also acts as a "shear pin" ... so somehow it got sheared but the pulley and everything is still on and it looks normal...when the heavier load puts more tension it spins on the end of the crankshaft...but works works good without a load just due to the friction of the tappered shaft. So take off that pulley and I bet that dreft pin is gone... I would do it pretty soon before if scares the shaft /pulley etc... I've seen this happen when i didn't even hit anything that should of caused it. Hope this will take care of your problem.

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1 Answer

Trying to replace a drive belt on the tractor. The pin that keeps the belt on the transaxle pulley is so close I can't get the belt on the pulley. trying to follow instructions in the book but it is...


Have replaced the belt a few times on my 48". Don't know if its the same model you have, but here's the way i've found to do mine:
The front pulley can be easily removed and i slip the belt onto it while holding it up just before re-inserting the pulley onto the shaft.
The belt is first slipped over the rear pulley and kept in a straight line toward the front pulley without winding it around any of the holders or anything to give it the maximum length. Also the clutch pedal has to be pressed/held down while doing the install. To remove the front pulley: take the plastic guard off the top center of the motor revealing the large center nut; place large crescent wrench or soemthing to hold the nut and then loosen the center pulley bolt from underneath with socket. Pulley will slide off sometimes after a few taps downward w/ a wooden mallet. Note there is a slot inside the pulley shaft that lines up with a raised area on the motor shaft. don't overtighten when re-installing, maybe lube the bolt a little 'cause you may need to take it off again in the future.
Let me know if you need more details.
Thanks,
GT

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1 Answer

How do i shorten a Casio Protrek titanium band watch????


On my new ProTrek PRW-3000T, there are the small collars which douglasjryan describes. Looking closely at them, I believe that they are not directional (you can re-insert them either way, which is convenient, because they do tend to come flying out at unexpected moments after you've removed a pin). Neither are the pins directional, as far as I can tell. (I think it is this clever and easy to use, and probably more durable, collar design, which eliminates the need for the split-end fragile pins of the past).

I was able to do everything with only hand strength, a very small jewellers' screwdriver to act as the pin pusher, the requisite needlenose pliers to pull the pins out once the pin pusher has extended the pin end by 2-3mm from the bracelet link, and an old toothbrush (great idea, Arturs Kalnins, thanks!) handle to push the pins back in.

To amplify Arturs Kalnins' admonition - the pins go back in following the same direction they came out. That is to say, you push from the edge of the bracelet link which has the arrow etched in it to get the pin out, and you put the pin back in starting from that same edge of the bracelet link which has the arrow etched in it.

A note about pushing the pins back in. Although they seem to be stronger than the pins of the past, you still would not want to apply a sideways force to them. So, start inserting the pin back in with fingers, or using the needlenose pliers gently, to get the end of the pin inserted through the first edge of the bracelet link and into the collar, then continue gently pushing, being quite careful to push only straight (this is particularly important if using a toothbrush handle) until the pin is pushed through the collar and into the centre section of the bracelet link. Before trying to force the pin the last few millimetres, make sure that the bracelet links are lined up - if you are using only hand strength as I did, instead of a bracelet holder, it is easy for the pin to be inserted through one edge, through the collar, through the centre of the link, and to have the band slightly twisted so that the other edge of the link is not lined up with the pin hole. Once the links are aligned, continue pushing with the toothbrush handle to sink the pin the rest of the way.

I found that the end of the toothbrush (at least, the old one that I used, which has a rounded end) makes a convenient pusher for the last fraction of a millimetre to get the pin end flush with the bracelet link edge.

Thanks everyone, you made the process of sizing my watch band (I had to remove four links) quick and easy!

Aug 27, 2010 | Casio G-Shock G7000D-8V Wrist Watch

1 Answer

I started with E20, pulled the hoses off and the drain was clogged. I "put it back together" and now Im getting E59 code. What did I do wrong?


E59 No tacho signal for 3 seconds. This is a motor issue. follow the steps bellow to diagnose this issue.

Remove the belt from the motor and spin the
motor pulley. Does the motor spin free? If the answer is no to the question, you will need to replace the motor. if the motor is free, move on to the next step.

Disconnect the plug from the drive motor and
measure the resistance between pins 4 & 5
in the motor. If the meter reads other than between 105 & 130 Ohms, replace the motor. If the reading is between 105 & 130 Ohms, move to the next step.


Disconnect the plug from the motor and
measure the resistance of the windings (pin
1 to pin 2, pin 1 to pin 3, pin 2 to pin 3). All
readings should be between 4 and 6 Ohms.

If the readings are correct, replace the speed control
board.
If the readings are incorrect, replace the motor.


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