Re: 1985 carrier unit stopped. all fans spin freely.
Trace wiring out from fan motor back to relay or contactor. On the relay or contactor check with a volt meter and see if you have power to the fan motor. If you don't, you need to check the coil on the relay or contactor and see if you have power on the coil.(24V,120V,230V whatever is marked on the name plate). If there is then replace relay or contactor. if there isn't the control circuit is probably open and it is likely the high pressure control. You will need to locate this and reset it, if it is a manual reset, or it is possible there is another problem
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Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage.
CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING.
NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position.
If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor.
Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor.
Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings
Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter.
Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released.
Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.
Pull the unit away from the wall where you can get behind it. Take the access panel off . From the back the control panel. If you have a good multi-meter. Set it on 200 volt AC. Check power at a easily accessible power out let. If you get between 110 and 120 volt reading .your meter is good. Check voltage at starter button with the unit plugged in have someone try the button while you checking for power. If you're not familiar with electrical wiring might have to call someone who is. Chances are your on off switch is bad or the timer is .
How do you know it will run if you reset the reset button? You could have a problem with the coil of the starter, pressure switch not closing and/ or overload issues. The reset is usually on the overload block. To check the coil you need a volt meter where you can measure in ohms or resistance. Remove both wires on the coil with power off !!!!!! and measure across those two terminals. If it is showing open then you have a bad coil. To check the pressure switch to the same thing across the motor and line terminal. If open with 0 psi in tank then pressure switch is bad. Last thing to check is overload block, there are normally a 95 and 96 terminal. Check for continuity across those two terminals (while power is off !!!!!). If open and the reset button is pushed then the overload block is defective.
Hello There are two possibilities for the fault symptom. The first one is, with a short ted component, Horizontal Output Transistor. This transistor can be located very near to LOT [Line Output Transformer] which in turn dirves the LOT. The second one is with LOT itself. Both are irreparable components, and replacing them with same type and number is the only work that can be done. OK.
You will need to inspect the power supply. The chances are real good you have bad capacitors in the power supply. I would estimate there will be 5 capacitors that will be replaced. You may change them all, which is best. Some capacitors will check good when they are not. The power supply will be the smaller of the two boards inside this TV. It is also the easiest to pull out. You may use a capacitor checker to locate the bad caps. This is know as an ESR meter. Once again, it may show a good cap when it may in fact be a bad one. This is rare of course, but I have been there. Please replace all caps in the power supply board. If there is a good capacitor it will be the 400 volt 100Mf (Largest capacitor in the power supply) that is fine! Thanks for asking and show all hands of support.
Although a capacitor may look good, it may be weak or bad. Here is what you will have to do. Replace capacitor (location) 2074 which is a 25 volt 2200Mf at 105 degrees. Replace capacitor (location) 2081 which is a 35 volt 1200 Mf at 105 degrees. And you should change capacitor 2066 which is a 16 volt 10Mf at 105 degrees. Please be careful with the last cap mentioned. You can easily tear the PCB trace if you are not extremely careful. This should bring your TV back to life. Thanks for asking and show a few hands of support!
could be seized fan motor, failed capacitor, faulty contactor, bad wiring. Turn the breaker off to the unit and try to spin the fan with a long screw driver or something similar but be careful not the bend the fan blade, If the fan will not move don't force it you need a new motor,If the fan spins freely move on open the cover and check the wiring but becareful the capacitor can still have a full charge and shock you even with power off. Other the that you will need a volt meter that can check volts, amps, and capacitors to futher test the unit I suggest calling a local HVAC contractor and having the unit repair and tuned up by have a tune up done you can recoup the cost of the repair with the energy savings from the tune up.
Be very careful! Standard microwaves have 2100volt capacitors and commercial ones 4000 volt capacitors.
*Decharge your capacitor(s) before doing diagnostics*.
You are now testing the high voltage side (as it works on convection). The main components are a transformer, a capacitor, a diode and a magnetron (havent seen a triac in a panasonic residential). If you have a proper meter that can test uf, decharge the capacitor, then test the capacitor, if it reads 0, you need a new capacitor (10$ used typically, 14$ new from ebay). To test the magnetron, decharge the capacitor first, remove the spade connections, test each leg to the frame of the microwave... if it shows measurable resistance, the magnetron is bad. The transformer is not something you test as I personally dont have a 4000 volt meter. If the diode, the magnetron and capacitor are okay, then the transformer is bad. To eliminate any other function, disconnect the low voltage to the transformer run a micropower cycle and check the fuse.
Hope that helps. My first instinct is the capacitor.
No fuse. The obvious thing is to check the motor itself, which means it must be pulled. Once you gain access to the motor, with the power shut off to the unit, try spinning the blade to see if it is bound up. If it's spinning freely, remove it from the unit, and test the windings on the motor for continuity with a VOM meter. If you have no meter or access to one, or aren't familiar with electrical, then take the motor to an Appliance parts house. They can usually test it and most carry motors that are adaptable for beverage coolers. Make sure they know whether the machine is a 120 or 240 volt unit. If I'm not mistaken that motor runs 24/7 when cooler is powered up.