Question about Kitchen Ranges

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F1 error code

Top heating element won't work unless put to level 8 first and then turned down. The oven won't cook evenly. Everything in back done first

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  • 475 Answers

I think that your heating element might be going out on you. Or maybe unplug it and let it sit for ahalf hour and then plug it back in.

Posted on Jan 02, 2013

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: Electric Oven doesn't cook evenly

back plate inside oven may be distorted or some of the vents blocked with crud

Posted on Apr 03, 2007

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: bottom element will not turn off

Your BAKE element relay on the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) Board is shorted.  I have experienced this problem before.  The board is not serviceable and (unfornately) you will have to replace it.  The board can run anywhere from $100 to $200 for a new one.  Slightly less for a refurbished one.  Prices will also vary depending on source.  This is a repair you can do yourself if you choose to do so.  If you can provide me with your model number (located inside the lower door panel), I can do some research to get a part number and price for you.  Let me know.  I hope this is helpful.

Posted on Oct 31, 2007

Krazytech
  • 725 Answers

SOURCE: Oven Failure Code F1

F1 is a Relay circuit failure . you have a bad relay PCB or wire connection.

to fix your F1 error
92028 RELAY PCB, 105 C

Posted on Aug 25, 2008

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: oven not working error code F1 and beeping

On ranges where the electronic control and keypad are permanently attached to each other (ie. not separately replaceable) like on your range, a faulty oven sensor or problem in the sensor's wiring circuit can cause that error code on some models. Most oven sensors used these days should read about 1100 ohms when at room temperature.

Here are some juicy pearls of appliantology wisdom from our friends at Maytag for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here’s a simple explanation of what’s going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:

a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (1.e., not cooking) mode or

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.

Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor gotsta be within spec or it will cause the F1 code. As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode. This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven. The resistance isn’t high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit). The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms. The fault code is generated when this doesn’t happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness, harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad. If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously. If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle), remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes, then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner. The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied, the surface material can break down causing shorts. If you’re gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel –don’t spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.

Most likely culprit: Temp Sensor
CLICK HERE

9e4f6b6.jpg That cylindrical object is the sensor. It's two wires connect to the ERC. You can remove those wires from the ERC and test the resistance with an OhmMeter.

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on May 07, 2009

SOURCE: Jenn-Air SCE 30600, oven error codes F1 and Probe

An F-1 error code on your model means the element was energized when it should not have been, A shorted interconnect harness or failed power relay board.

A probe indication could be a failed meat probe jack or bad harness in a unit that has one. In a unit without a meat probe, suspect a bad board.

Both conditions would warrant bringing in a tech.

Before you do, turn off the circuit breaker fot 3 miutes and turn it back on. This will reboot the boards. If problem persists, the call a service tech.

Posted on Nov 04, 2009

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1 Answer

How do i fix an oven that bakes unevenly


the cooking I can't help with, but the oven I can.

sounds to me like the bottom element or what controls it is not working. the reason the ones on top are cooking is that the top element is coming on and browning them on top after the heat has made the dow rise and cook.
so essentially everything is cooking from the top down. so when the temp drops its using the top element to heat with and thus browns the top rack.

check ur elements to make sure both work, if so, move on to the thermostat which I have to be the culprit many times.

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SMEG OVEN BRAND NEW WON'T HEAT


This tutorial will show you how to check your Smeg element and how to replace your Smeg cooker element.
Here are the 3 main faults to look for in your oven or cooker that is not heating
  • Your oven will not work until the clock/timer has been re-set after replacing an oven element or tripping the electrical supply. Consult your Smeg manual.
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F1 Appears on Kenmore Electric Range


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
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GE Profile Double Oven F1 Error


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
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1 Answer

F3 & F1 Errors & oven shuts off


Concerning the F3(Open or shorted oven temperature sensor (RTD)

Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok.


Concerning the F1(Stuck touch pad)


Usually means that either the touch pad or the oven control (also called clock or ERC) is defective and needs to be replaced. If this fault code cannot be cancelled, replace the oven control (also called clock or ERC), touch pad, or both.

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