Question about Frigidaire 20.3 Cu. Ft. Frost-Free Upright Freezer - White

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How to test a frigidaire Freezer electronic control circuit board p/n 451704000

Model # LFFU14F5HWH

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You can try reseating the controller. UNPLUG THE FREEZER FROM THE ELECTRICAL OUTLET. Get a wide putty knife and insert it between the door and the controller bezel on the right side of the controller. Pry the controller out toward the top first (comes out easily) by twisting the putty knife handle so the top of the controller pops out and then grab the controller toward the bottom and pull it out as straight as you can. Get some dielectric grease and put it on the pins at the bottom on the back of the controller you removed from the door. Alternately, you could put wd40 on a cotton cloth and wipe the contacts. Make sure not the leave any debris on the pins other than a little bit of grease or wd40. Insert the controller back into the door and plug the freezer electrical cord back into the outlet.

I had some problems with the line voltage coming in my house. For a while the lights would flicker. I believe that this was a contributor to the problems I had with my freezer, which have lasted about five months now. I would intermittently find that the display was all lit up or that the led number segments would be dark, but a little red led was lit. Simply unplugging and replugging at the electrical outlet seemed to do the trick. Finally it seemed like it completely malfunctioned, not restarting after unplugging and replugging. Just dead. I finally pulled off the controller and put the dielectric grease on the pins and then whalla, it came on again without issue...well for 15 minutes so far.

I had a feeling that the issue was the controller all along because the freezer itself never seemed to have any problem getting cold or setting the temp, just this problem of shutting down every so often (2-5 times a week). I'll post back again with an update.

Posted on Apr 11, 2014

  • Danobegood Apr 13, 2014

    Holding steady for 2 days now

  • Danobegood Jul 14, 2014

    No joy for long after cleaning the contacts. I ended up replacing the CPU/controller and all is holding well since May '14. Here's the link to the lowest price controller I could find. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081E9...

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Hello H. Green - Typically this type of information is not release to someone who is not a technician and it is very rare to locate this data. In most cases this information can be found on the internet; however it is not provided directly from the manufacturer due to liability reasons. I strongly suggest contacting a professional to move forward accurately.

Posted on Jan 06, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Frigidaire Upright Freezer Model FFH17F7HWB Deluxe

change out the main control unit.there could also be a crossed or shorted wire in the door and this can not be fixed

Posted on Sep 01, 2010

  • 1531 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Freezer RIP 10-11-10.

yes you need to replace the circuit board

Posted on Oct 13, 2010

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SOURCE: deluxe electronic control alarm on

Hi,

Freezer alarms indicate two things: The door is not closed correctly; The temperature is warmer than -12 degrees.

The alarm can be visual ( red warning light), in either case it can happen if you have just filled your freezer with loads of fresh unfrozen food, however the alarm should self cancel after approx 20 mins as the freezer chills the fresh food and the warm air, down. A persistent alarm should be investigated by a fridge engineer as soon as possible, any food defrosting below -8 degrees is definitely suspect as far as refreezing is concerned. Where a failed thermostat causes the alarm the food will totally defrost, where a gas system is inefficient it's possible to have an intermittent alarm. The freezer should maintain a temperature between 0-5 degrees and if it gets above 15 degrees, the alarm will sound. This could be a thermostat problem, if it's keeping the compressor off too long. If the compressor is not running and it's warm inside the cabinet, turn the thermostat to a colder setting. If the compressor comes on, the thermostat will need to be replaced. If the compressor still won't run, check if it's hot but be careful. If the compressor is hot, the problem can be with the start kit or the compressor has failed. Another possibility is if the compressor is running but there is not a full frost pattern on all the shelves, it indicates problem in the seal system. Whichever cause happens, it will need a thorough checkup and repair by an engineer.


Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
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Posted on May 27, 2011

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Frigidaire freezer M# ffu17f5hwh, is there a recall on control board?


Hello friend, thanks for the post!

I see that the red light stays on and your Frigidaire freezer continues to beep. From what I have researched there is no recall on the control board of FFU17F5HWH. You could try resetting your appliance, which could be done by unplugging the power cord or flipping the household circuit breaker in the off position for ten minutes. Please comment back I would like to know if this information has been helpful. I look forward to your post. -Matt

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First the freezer alarm beeping with red light flashing, inside light went out and freezer standard electronic temperature control display unit no longer lights up.


Hi Loretta, I am happy to assist you!

Based on the symptoms you are describing, it sounds like your freezer may possibly have a communication problem with the control board, a potential wiring failure, or faulty temperature control. Before reaching out to a professional, let's try resetting your freezer. This can be done by either unplugging it or flipping off the circuit breaker. It is important to wait approximately ten minutes. If it proves ineffective, In this regard, I would suggest contacting an Authorized Service Technician that will be able to assist you in the exact diagnosis of the appliance.

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Maybe It Needs Regasing Some Fridges Have a Swich Between The Fridge And Freezer If They Are Fan Forced That Gives Off The Same Symptom As Being Out Of Gas Or Low On Gas

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Control board and wiring harness which are supposed to replace Frigidaire 242000406 are apparently not correct. I have now installed 2 of the new control boards and I am unable to get any power to the...


Hello Gentlemen;

My name is Peter; I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

The two of you are on the right track.

The board that you replaced;

19294535-2wop33oc00rzrbarpm5t54vf-3-0.jpg
Substitution: 5303918498
The electronic control board controls the major electro-mechanical components in the refrigerator. When the electronic control board senses the compressor needs to run to cool the refrigerator, it sends voltage to the compressor and fans. It then receives input from temperature sensors to monitor the temperatures inside the refrigerator and freezer sections.

This is a substitution and can not communicate with your existing electrical control board. You need tor replace this board was well:
19294535-2wop33oc00rzrbarpm5t54vf-3-2.jpg
Substitution: 241973711 Cost: $83.00

The electronic control board 241973711 controls the major electro-mechanical components in the refrigerator. When the electronic control board senses the compressor needs to run to cool the refrigerator, it sends voltage to the compressor and fans.

When you plugged in your old board and got power, that is because the two boards were communicating.

When you change the board be careful to ground yourself by touching something that is bare metal. Static electricity will knock out a board.

The Electrolux Frigidaire Refrigerator is a good unit. It should last you 20-30 years. If you want a unit that is in constant repair, buy either a Samsung or LG. They have the highest failure and repair cost of all of the manufacturers.

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Temprature blinking


Control board has gone bad....

What happens is the defrost is controlled electronically from a circuit board, when this goes bad, the freezer quits defrosting, and freezes the fans that circulate air through the fridge side of things.

To check this, unplug the entire fridge, leave the freezer open, wait for it to defrost a bit, if this causes the fridge to start cooling again when you plug it back in, then its the defrost. You should also see ice crystals on the back of the freezer just under the icemaker.

http://forums.partselect.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/rerifgerator-side-not-below-54-degrees-6699.html

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OK, this is a failed controller board, any E4* is Power supply & Controller Board, probably caused by a power spike.You need to get the unit looked at to see if it is able to be repaired, and if parts are available. If you wish to try and repair this yourself, you must get a service manual, to do so, and to be able to order parts.

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the defrost circuit has a problem, allowing the frost/ice buildup..
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First make sure you have a good 9v battery installed. If it is ok then the problem will probably be in the display board or the wiring connectors between the boards. CE is communication error. If your model has the electronic tempature control instead of mechanical thermostat the problem could be in there. My bet is a bad connection at display board.

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