Question about Maytag Stove / Oven / Range Cooktop - 12001853

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Oven heats up very slowly - Maytag Stove / Oven / Range Cooktop - 12001853

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How old is your maytag might be time for a new one.

Posted on Mar 11, 2013

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Dcs oven wos130 wont reach set temperature on bake


Good afternoon Steve!
The answer may depend a bit on what you mean by 'stops heating'.
  • One interpretation could be 'the heating shuts off, and the oven goes back toward room temperature
  • The other would be that it heats up, but it heats to a certain temp and then stays there. it's just not as hot as it's supposed to be.
If it's the former, that sounds like something is overheating and an interlock is engaging because it's interpreted as 'I'm too hot where I shouldn't be, and I should shut off before I cause a fire. I'd leave that to a better trained service tech.

If it's the latter, then it'll depend on how low it is. If it's way low, then there's a couple possibilities:
  1. The heater element is defective, and even at the full current draw the oven can run, it can't get any hotter than that upper temp. This would mean replacing the element.
  2. The temperature sensor in the oven is defective or mis-mounted. There should be a temp sensor inside the oven cavity. if it's disconnected, or, say, bent out of place and much nearer the bake element then it should be, then the heat coming direct off of the element may be fooling it into thinking the oven is hotter than it really is. this could mean replacing the temp sensor, or just re-mounting it to proper position.
If it's just a bit low, then there could just be a calibration problem. If you look at the manual here
DCS WOS 127 Use And Care Manual Child Safety User Option you can see how to adjust the calibration up or down in temperature to, hopefully, match the oven thermometer you're trying to use as a check.

Hope this helps!
Good Luck
D

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1 Answer

What helps remove silicone under stovetop


rEMOVING SILICONE IS EASY WHEN IT IS SET UP AND COLD. The more or warmer it gets the more pliable it becomes, like gum. If it is thick, slowly peel back like a sheet of paper. If thin, carefuly use a razon blade scraper and holding at a right angle, scrape the silicone. Using any solvents will leave you with the byproduct called gooey mess. Good Luck, please be careful with the tools you may need and use.

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1 Answer

Oven temp fluctuates


It is normal for the thermal device to turn on and off. Obtaining a steady temp is not always possible. When setting a temperature on some ovens, they have what is called a tolerance point. That means a set temperature has a range of a few degrees up or down. At the Down point, the oven is triggered to energize the coils and bring the interior of the oven back to the settings desired. The other factor is opening the oven and allowing cool air to enter, or in some cases a leaking door seal allows air to enter and heat to escape.

Feb 26, 2014 | Kenmore 30" Slide-In Electric Range...

1 Answer

Whirlpool Double Oven Range


Recycle the circuit breaker for the oven several times. If you haven't used the oven much the contacts may be corroded. The display is off a 110Vac circuit but the ovens use 220Vac, The circuit breaker should be 2 switches "ganged" together as one. Both should be cycled...

Dec 25, 2012 | Whirlpool GGE388LXB - Black GoldR Double...

1 Answer

Oven part is on but doesnt seem to be heating


Hi,
If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right,then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly

heatman101

Jun 29, 2011 | Belling 27 in. CTC465 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

The oven will not heat, but the broiler does work.


Hi,

Just because it glows that does not mean it is not bad...
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4572625-oven_problems_replacing_igniter

heatman101

Mar 07, 2010 | GE Cooktops

1 Answer

Bottom element is not heating


bottom element need to be replaced,unplug unit,and open the oven and unscrew the screws that hold it inplace,pull it out slowly and detach the two wires and replace with a new one install in reverce order

Feb 16, 2010 | Cooktops

1 Answer

How do I know when my stove is done self cleaning?


to get all the detailed instructions
just click this link directly
http://www.applianceaid.com/selfclean5.html
The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
thanks.

Nov 11, 2009 | Kenmore Cooktops

1 Answer

Whirlpool self cleaning oven Accubake. 2 yr old


Hi

The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.

Please do rate this solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Jul 06, 2009 | Whirlpool 30 in. RC8700 Electric Cooktop

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