Question about Heating & Cooling
Rthl 2510 honeywell thermostat on tempstar heat pump model number hps018a2c1. According to wiring diagram its correctly hooked up. Have a blue wire that is says not to use- if this type of heat pump has auxiliary heat feature? Hooked up thermostat in summer, conncected blue wire and air conditioner worked. Did not check heat. Tried heat recently with no luck. Rewired according to honeywell thermostat directions (on theory this tempstar unit has aux. heat). Now nothing works. The fan option where you can make fan run continuously will not even work. Went thru advanced programming options as well. No luck. Flipped all breakers on and off in fuse panel inside. Pulled exterior breaker on outside as well and reinstalled.
You probably opened the 3 or 5 amp fuse at the control board to the indoor unit. Wire it like you had it during the cooling mode to begin with. Find that fuse and replace it, 3 or 5 amp. Get it cooling again, then check you system/installer configuration to ensure it knows that is a heat pump, with aux. heat. The blue wire is usually used as a common wire, C terminal, to allow the tstat to work with no batteries, when C is used. As far as the manual no using the blue wire?... Not sure where it was wired in to begin with. If it was in the C terminal, put it back, won't need batteries. Hope this helps!
Posted on Mar 25, 2017
I would call an expert, testing needs to be done, but based on what I have seen it may be the control board of the heat pump is defective.
Posted on Mar 24, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Had similar problem, continuous fan, turn off power, then won't start up. Replaced thermostat, no change. The main controller board in the furnace went bad. What was weird was that it happened in the summer, while the heat was turned off. One day I noticed that the fan was running. The thermostat was in the off position, and I had to shut off power to the furnace to make it stop. I forgot about it till heating season came along and it wouldn't start up. The preliminary blower would start, the gas would click on, it would light, then quit. After tracing and checking the various safety switches, etc. it became apparrent the main board was bad. I found one on ebay, replaced it, [a simple job, unplug, a few screws, replug] and it's been working fine..good luck, John
Posted on Nov 07, 2008
I am an electrician. You must measure the voltage across the black and red wires. Measuring each wire to the neutral will not cut it. If both your red and black wire are on the same phase the heater will not work.
To double check your wiring, measure the voltage across the two screws feeding your subpanel, they should be 240v or 208v depending on your power company. Then do the same at the breaker feeding your thermostat. Again it should read 240v.
If you have no potential across the screws it is possible that you installed an incorrect breaker. Not all breakers with two screws on them are 240v breakers. There is what is called a twin or split breaker that has two screws that are on the same phase. These are for wiring two 110v circuits, when you run out of spaces in the panel.
Double check everything. This is a relatively easy circuit to wire, even for homeowners. If the heater does not work them something is wrong so do not leave the circuit energized.
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
if you cross the two wires and you see a slight spark and heat comes on, then the problem is in the thermostat, if not then problem is at furnace it self.
Posted on Apr 26, 2009
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