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Re: element does not turn on in Presto Air Heater Model #...
Sounds like you have a burned out element, it will need to be replaced, or if there is a fusible link it might be shot as well, if you know how to check continuity then that's half the battle, if not, a good service tech would be able to let you know, if its not to expensive of a unit, you might want to consider just replacing it. hope that helps
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the fan has to be on while the strips are on. knowing that the fan comes on when you switch it to on at the thermostat but not when your just calling for heat indicates that you have somting wrong with the heating relay or the fan isnt wired properly to the heating relay (posssibly a new motor during the summer) or just a bad relay. when the first stage heat comes on it should also energize the motor the first to come on is also the last to shut off which will make sure the fan runs during the whole heating cycle. until you remedy this you can run the heat just keep the fan switch set to on so its running, this will not hurt anything
You can purchase heating elements for this fan that will solve the problem. This is a fairly new fan model so I would recommend calling Nutone because this model has a three year warranty. They may send you the part you need for free.
These heaters are the same as the marley heater, the element never gets red hot. the unit is set up so the fan kicks on after the element has heated to a certain temp and turns off after the element has cooled. It is common for these heater fans to cycle on and off quite often untill the air temp reaches about 55 degrees and then will operate normaly. If the fan still cycles too often you may have to replace the fan control and high limit switch. These are not very expensive and easy to replace yourself. they arte usualy attached to the back of the element with clips. The luke warm air is what these units put out. I have an equivelent to the dayton G73 and it heats a 24' X 30' garrage all winter in central Minnesota.
Dust on the inside of the unit can cause the overload switch to shut many vornados down. Blowing the dust out of the unit with compressed air or a blower may help.
Another problem that causes vornados to stop working (light on - no heat no fan) is when one of the bearings starts to go bad in the unit. This causes the fan to be slower and less effective and the unit’s inability to move the heat away from the thermal overload switch again causes it to shut down.
Though you could remove the front and rear bearings and try to get replacements if it's even replaceable ... Once the bearing starts to go bad there is little that can be done ... HOWEVER, here is one solution to get more life out of the unit.
First, use a blower to blow all the dust out of the unit. Then, because it is typically the front bearing that goes bad first, lay the vornado on it’s back (so the unit would be blowing air up toward the ceiling), this will relieve the front bearing somewhat and rely more on the rear bearing which tends to last longer.
The vornados I’ve had are all thermistor units ... that is, they don’t just turn on and off when the set temp is reached but in fact slow themselves down (both heat and fan) to keep some level of air circulation in the room. This is a good thing by the way. There are usually two toggle switches .... one is a heat switch - usually Low & High .... the other is the thermistor switch (this sometimes is labeled “fan”) - usually Auto & High.
Once the unit is on its back ... Now, change the settings as follows: Turn the Heat switch to LOW Turn the Fan switch to HIGH Turn the dial (with the temperature in degrees on it) to the lowest setting - which is somewhere around 60’ish.
Now turn the unit on and it should stay working. Three things that could cause it to turn back off ... You turn the Fan switch back to Auto. You turn the Heat switch back to High You turn the temperature selection dial too high ... though, you can cautiously turn the dial up a few degrees at a time ... the unit will start shutting down again when you set the temp too high ... then just dial it back down ... unplug for a couple minutes, then turn back on.
I had the same thing on a Presto deep fryer. I removed that back cover and traced the wires from the AC inlet. One lead goes to a switch that activates when you slide the heater into the case so the heating element will not turn on if it is not in the case. I removed the switch, pushed it in and out a few times, verified that it works with a multimeter, reassembled everything, and "presto", it works. Maybe I was lucky, but it worked for me.