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Re: element does not turn on in Presto Air Heater Model #...
Sounds like you have a burned out element, it will need to be replaced, or if there is a fusible link it might be shot as well, if you know how to check continuity then that's half the battle, if not, a good service tech would be able to let you know, if its not to expensive of a unit, you might want to consider just replacing it. hope that helps
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Put your hear at the thermostat. Move the dial with length. Can you hear an it click on and off?
Try another outlet. Is the outlet working?
Tilt it to the floor and back (safety to shut off if tilted).
There is not much to a heater. Element on/off switches. Thermostat. Tip over safety switch.
Noting meant to be repaired. Give it a good smack before throwing it away.
Yes it would seem that the thermostat or the knob would be the problem...when checking for voltage you need to check for 220v across the two terminals for the heating element. You will have 120 feeding back and forth all over the place but the fan and element will only work if they have 220... so you can have voltage and it still not work...
A common issue with these heaters is the safety switch which is part of the thermostatically controlled temp switch. A faulty safety switch would result in constant "on/off" cycle as the unit is sensing an over-heated safety condition. If you hear a "click" when it shuts off and then another "click" when it turns back on, it is that switch heating up and cooling down opening and closing the circuit.
The manufacturer must install a "master" kill switch to prevent the unit from overheating and catching fire. A faulty switch may be the issue you have been facing.
End result, more money in getting it "fixed" than what you could spend to buy another heater. All in all, great heater when it works - horrible when it decides to break!!
These heaters are the same as the marley heater, the element never gets red hot. the unit is set up so the fan kicks on after the element has heated to a certain temp and turns off after the element has cooled. It is common for these heater fans to cycle on and off quite often untill the air temp reaches about 55 degrees and then will operate normaly. If the fan still cycles too often you may have to replace the fan control and high limit switch. These are not very expensive and easy to replace yourself. they arte usualy attached to the back of the element with clips. The luke warm air is what these units put out. I have an equivelent to the dayton G73 and it heats a 24' X 30' garrage all winter in central Minnesota.
Dust on the inside of the unit can cause the overload switch to shut many vornados down. Blowing the dust out of the unit with compressed air or a blower may help.
Another problem that causes vornados to stop working (light on - no heat no fan) is when one of the bearings starts to go bad in the unit. This causes the fan to be slower and less effective and the unit’s inability to move the heat away from the thermal overload switch again causes it to shut down.
Though you could remove the front and rear bearings and try to get replacements if it's even replaceable ... Once the bearing starts to go bad there is little that can be done ... HOWEVER, here is one solution to get more life out of the unit.
First, use a blower to blow all the dust out of the unit. Then, because it is typically the front bearing that goes bad first, lay the vornado on it’s back (so the unit would be blowing air up toward the ceiling), this will relieve the front bearing somewhat and rely more on the rear bearing which tends to last longer.
The vornados I’ve had are all thermistor units ... that is, they don’t just turn on and off when the set temp is reached but in fact slow themselves down (both heat and fan) to keep some level of air circulation in the room. This is a good thing by the way. There are usually two toggle switches .... one is a heat switch - usually Low & High .... the other is the thermistor switch (this sometimes is labeled “fan”) - usually Auto & High.
Once the unit is on its back ... Now, change the settings as follows: Turn the Heat switch to LOW Turn the Fan switch to HIGH Turn the dial (with the temperature in degrees on it) to the lowest setting - which is somewhere around 60’ish.
Now turn the unit on and it should stay working. Three things that could cause it to turn back off ... You turn the Fan switch back to Auto. You turn the Heat switch back to High You turn the temperature selection dial too high ... though, you can cautiously turn the dial up a few degrees at a time ... the unit will start shutting down again when you set the temp too high ... then just dial it back down ... unplug for a couple minutes, then turn back on.
yes, it should work. Just ensure your rheostat will handle up to 1500 watts at reasonable settings. A better approach is a 1500 watt pulse-width modulator circuit that draws little power itself. these are available where power tools are sold (like harborfreight.com and known as speed controllers. I use one for a large air fan in my garage.
Sometimes too much dust around the heating elements can cause the heater to switch off to prevent a fire. Check for dust build up first. You can try using a can of compressed air that can be found at many electronic stores.