Question about Optics
The opening in the muzzle brake (integrated to the front sight) is offset to the bore of the barrel.I think this is pulling the pellet down and to the right. the rear sight is adjusted all the way to the left and the aim is 1.5 inches to the right at 10 yards and low to the line of sight Can't adjust up any further.But the pellet may still be climbing to the line of sight. the extreme right is the real problem.
Posted by Anonymous on
Remove the grub screw and heat the plastic brake gently and twist off
Posted on Jul 21, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Ruger 10/22 Scope problem
This happens will all firearms. what happens when the bullet leaves the bullet is a decieving "rise" of the bullet. The reason for this is the Line of Sight (Scope View), angles down and away from the Line of Departure (Barrel). The bullet actually never rises and is in fact continally falling away from your rifles Line of Departure but because this is higher than the Line of Sight the bullet seems to Rise than fall to the set distance in the scope (i mention set distance and not zero because you can change your Minutes of Angle on your scope to increase and decrease range)
this is a chart that illustrates what i just said.
now that you understand that you should take a good read into Exterior Ballistics. this is the Mathematics of your fireamrs trajectory ( I say your firearms because your bullet's flight depends on the length of the barel which will vary from gun to gun) this science of shooting will teach you how to understand bullet Grain and Volume relations. understanding the Feet per second of your rounds and how the affects you. teach you about shooting in high pressure and low pressure environments and extremly windy environment.
now there is alot of math to all of this and its hard to find it all on the net and if your not that great at math you can do what i do bc im lazy and im not a sniper im just a hobby kinda guy. '
Sierra Infinity V 6 Ballistics Software. I dl'd mine off the net you might have to buy it depending on how resourceful you are. it is well worth the buy. You can punch in the daily variables (Barometric Pressure, Temp, Humidity, and Altitude) (of couse with your bullet as well) and it will give you a "Cheat Sheet" for those conditions stating Windage and Elevation adjustments per decided incriment (50 yrds is standard) then you take that to the range and (bring a laptop if you got it and arent embarrased (som1 might even help you tune in the variables) hope this helps if not ill check back in a bit to see how you did
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
I had the same problem.. shimmed the rear ring by folding some aluminum foil and lining the whole bottom part of the ring. I think after all was said and done, the aluminum was about 12 slices thick. This gave me a little bit of elevation to play with.
Posted on Jun 29, 2009
SOURCE: scope will not bore site.
The sighting sounds about right to me meaning to you need to adjust the cross hairs i the opposite direction to where your point of aim is. If your sight is off 1/4 inch to the left you need to bring the barrel to the right to compensate and that's what the bore scope/site is doing. Think opposite and you'll have that tuned in a few seconds. I don't doubt that you have the correct mounting hardware BUT, it's from center bore to center scope what 2 inches so at 25'? Depending on what caliber I'd say at 25' you need to hold 2 inches high for center target. I'll just guess that you might not be able to get a zero until say about 25 yards with a 22 short. A larger bore/caliber will extend this out to possibly 100 yards.
I'm going to give you a link to a bullet trajectory chart so you can sort of see what it is I'm trying to write. you may need to cut and past this in your browser window.
Here is another chart that shows a bullet drop from the muzzle.
Hope this was a help have fun and be safe
Posted on Dec 30, 2010
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1. Insert the Bore Stud into the Stanchion while aligning the arrows as shows. Insert the assembled scope guide into the muzzle of your rifle with the grid pattern upright.
2. Select the Aperture Cap that fits your objective rim. Place it over the objective end of your rifle scope and press until it fits flatly against the rim.
3. Using the Adjustable Scale measure the top of your rifle scope tube to the center of the rifle bore as follows: Open the rifle breach. Rest the upper arm of the scale on the scope tube before or behind the windage and elevation turrets. The scale markings should be facing towards you reading vertically and ascending from bottom to top. Slide the lower end of the scale up or down until it is touching the center point of the bore. On center fire rifles the center point will be the firing pin. On rimfire models the center will be the shell extractor. Read the number that corresponds to the indicator marked "CF". Make a note of the reading.
4. Aim the rifle toward a light, flatly lit area such as a wall or open sky. Caution: Do Not Look At The Sun As Permanent Eye Injury Could Result.
5. While keeping the riflescope at the right distance to see the full field of view, sight through it on the grid pattern. Move the stanchion right or left until the bold centerline is parallel to the vertical reticule wire. Turn the windage dial right or left until the vertical reticule is aligned with the grid centerline.
6. Use the reading from the scale to align the horizontal reticule wire. Find the numbered horizontal grid line that corresponds to the number on the scale. Turn the elevation dial right or left until the horizontal reticule wire aligns with this corresponding grid line.
7. To make your final zeroing adjustments remove the scope guide from the bore of your rifle.
WARNING: FIREING YOUR RIFLE WITHOUT REMOVING THE SCOPE GUIDE MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO YOUR RIFLE AND OR CAUSE YOU INJURY
At a range or other safe area test fire a group of three rounds of the same type ammunition at a target at least 50 yards away. Refine your scope alignment by adjusting the windage and elevation dials. Move to your desired distance from the target and test fire another group and make your final windage and elevation adjustments.
8. Restore the stud tension by pressing the end of the spring.
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