Ice is forming on the outlet holes on the face of my 4200 xlt

Hi!!
Unplug unit form wall outlet for a couple of minutes to reset the board. It works most of the time.
Good Luck!! Don't forget to rate this post!!

Most of the time where they are making ice at the fill tube point the icemaker water valve in the back of the unit is leaking / dripping water past the valve / diaphram seat and it will have to be replaced. You can prove this by turning off the icemaker and then pulling the tube off the back of the unit and placing it into a bucket over night. If your sure the icemaker is off and there is water in the bucket the next morning the water valve is bad.

Now as for that ice in the icemaker fill tube... you can use a hand held hair dryer to defrost it once you change the water valve. I just changed my own water valve on a maytag less than 2 weeks ago that was doing the same thing. (Ice in fill hole and tube) It is working like a champ now.

A GE replacement dual outlet water valve:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/GE-Dual-water-inlet-valve-kit-item-number-AP3672839.aspx

(Make sure to use your model number when seeking the correct replacement see "useable on model list" bottom of the page)

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

The arm should move to the up position just before dumping the next batch of ice thus preventing ice from piling up on the arm. After the ice is dumped the arm goes back down. Once the ice bin if full the arm cannot go down and this shuts the production of ice off. The arm will be supported on one or both ends. Make sure it is securely in place. Pull the arm to the up (off) position and then come back in a couple of hours to make sure no ice is being made. If it still is making ice then the control module or shutoff switch may be bad. There are 2 types of ice makers. One in which all the parts can be replaced individually and one in which there are bunched together in a control module. If there is a knob, pull that off first. Module units have holes in the face plate marked with a letter and do not have a separate shutoff switch. Component units have no holes and will have exposed gears. If you see no holes pry off the face plate. Now click this link on the procedure to test the shutoff switch on a component unit. http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/icemaker/check/shutoffswitch.php

Usually this happens for one of two reasons: 1) there is a problem with the refrigerant and/or compressor (like a little leak of refrigerant)
2) the room that the compressor is in is too cool (below the operating range of the dehumidifier)

If the unit is under warranty, call for service if you know the room is above the minimum operating temp. If it is a problem with the refrigerant, they will probably replace the unit.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells
(we have an LG dehumidifier and had to have it replaced when it was less than a year old - it was icing up in the summer. It still iced up in the winter (at times due to cold in the basement).)

these units have a defrost drain that gets plugged.
you need to remove the ice from the freezer section and try to use a "turkey baster" to force water into the drain hole. it may be frozen and need to run hot water to get water to flow thru the drain.
sometimes you have to remove the drain from the back underside of the unit to clear the line. try the hot water inside first and if you cant clear the drain, then go to the back and remove the restriction from the drain line.

Hi, Bob:

Misery loves company, so I'm posting this even if it isn't in time to help you.

I had an XLT 8000 with similar problems. Vinotheque wanted to do the exchange program ($2,500+), and I was told the older aluminum coils might have leaked, and the exchange models come w/ SS coils. I was near to biting on that, when I decided to have a local refrigeration shop check it out.

Here's what they found--A MANUFACTURING DEFECT. It seems there are small copper capillary tubes that circulate the refrigerant. If they touch each other, with normal operating vibration they can wear holes in each other and the refrigerant can leak out. The leak can be very slow. According to the guy who fixed it (all for $219, and much of that was for drilling out the riveted-closed enclosure), "crossed cap tubes" is a Bush League mistake, akin to not putting oil in your car's crankcase.

I'm not saying WhisperKOOL/Vinotheque did this on purpose, knowing there would be an eventual failure and an opportunity to make another sale. But what the service guy told me was that IF the manufacturer was without scruples, a crossed cap tube would be the perfect way to take advantage of an unsuspecting customer.

My fix? Drill out the rivets, and find a local qualified service tech. Fixed in hours for $219 or in weeks with an exchange for $2,500... You choose.

This can be caused by the drain hole below freezer coil being blocked by ice. You MUST remove all ice in drain under freezer coil. Use turkey baster to squirt hot water into hole and use hairdryer to defrost. Possible defrost thermostat is defective. Unit never goes into defrost, ice forms on coil and in floor of freezer. After defrosting may work OK for a week or two but gradually gets warmer because ice is blocking ports where cool air gets to refrig. May also have water in refrig box. Can also be caused by defective defrost timer.

Make sure defrost drain is completely cleared of ice and anything else obstructing it. Pouring hot water in it is correct, but make sure it is going all the way through to defrost pan under unit.

I have had the same problem with ice forming. I found the problem is from the ice maker. The water fill tube delivers water to a plastic piece that acts like a funnel. The water goes through this plastic piece into the ice maker. Ice forms in the plastic funnel piece causing the water to overflow into the ice bin and freezer.

check the Shutoff Arm:

An arm extends away from the ice maker over the ice cube bin. During each ice making cycle, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. As ice accumulates in the bin it prevents the arm from dropping back down. When the arm is high enough, the ice maker shuts off and no more ice is made until the ice level in the bin drops.
The ice maker can also be turned off manually by lifting the arm all the way up into a locked position (shown below

The arm is supported at one or both ends. One end extends into the back of the front support (see photo above). If it is not securely in place, it could cause the ice maker to malfunction. Confirm that the arm is securely in place.
For proper operation, confirm that arm is in the lowered position and that nothing is blocking it from normal movement.
To test the shutoff function, lift the arm up into the manual shutoff position. Recheck the unit later to confirm that no ice is being made.
If unit continues making ice even when the shutoff arm is in the up (off) position, refer to the diagnostic table or for a modular ice maker, replace the control module.

check the Shutoff Switch:

Before testing the shutoff switch, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver.

Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. Component units (like the one shown below) usually have exposed gears and don't have holes for test probes.
Modular units do not use a separate shutoff switch. Instead follow this link to view instructions for checking the shut off arm.