Question about Washing Machines
Have crud coming out on our clothes. Trying to find out how to open the machine from the top to clean.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Calypso
"LF" is a "LONG FILL" error. This will occur if water fill time exceeds 10 minutes. I don't know why this would pop up at the end of a cycle. Normally this is associated with filling at the beginning of a cycle. There is also an "FL" error, which is an "OVERFILL" error. This is normally associated with a problem with either the control board or wiring harness. This normally occurs when there is an open circuit between pins 1 and 3 on P17 of the control board. That one is a little more involved and usually requires replacement of the control board, wiring harness, or both. If you, indeed, have an "LF" error I would check your water source coming in. Check your fill hoses for kinks or obstructions, first. Then, turn the water supply off and remove the hoses from the back of the machine. Place one end of each hose inside the wash tub and turn both water supply lines back on to make sure you have good water flow coming through the hoses. Replace the hoses if they show signs of bulging, cracks, leaking and/or restricted water flow. Turn water back off and check the fill valve inlet ports on the back of the washer for accumulations of sediments in the screens. It doesn't take much to restrict water flow. You can clean the screens with a cotton swab. If you check everything and still have problems with the error code popping up, I would replace the fill valve. It's an easier fix and less expensive than a control board. If you decide to replace the valve, it is located under the console on your washer, I believe. It's fairly simple with a couple of screws to remove on the console and a couple of connectors and hoses on the valve to remove. Make sure you unplug the machine and turn off the water supply before attempting. I hope you find this advice helpful. Let me know if this works for you.
Posted on Jul 14, 2007
This is usually a symptom of a bad motor control board which located under the console. I had the same problem. You can open the console by removing the three screws in the back and lifting from the rear first. The console will pop off. In addition, if you look along washer top front edge in the seam there is a retaining clip about 2 inches in from each side. Using a putty knife, push in on each clip while lifting and the top should pop up. There will be a tech sheet affixed to the front wall of the washer between the wash tub and case. This tech sheet will give you all the guidance necessary on how to perform tests to prove whether or not the motor controller is at fault, or if the pump is at fault. I believe you may have a motor controller problem, though. Another possibility is getting something caught in the drain pump reservoir. This could binding the pump. Let me know if any of this is helpful to you.
Posted on Aug 16, 2007
The most likely thing to cause the code and the leak is the water pump. If the shaft seal on the pump leaks, the water gets into the drain pump motor and shorts it out. The code is telling you there is a high current/amp draw at one of the motors.
You can see if the pump is leaking by tilting the machine back, removing the screws that hold the bottom to the front edge of the machine and looking at the pump. If the pump is leaking, you will need a new pump and possibly a new motor control board.
Post back if you need further instructions and we will walk through the repair.
Posted on Nov 09, 2007
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Calypso wont drain
Oh the dreaded calypso pump...Seen that one a million times. Pumps get clogged pretty easily. Try to get the water out manually first. Than push the washer back and lean it against the wall so that you can access the bottom. Remove the 3 screws. Bottom panel should come off. The pump is on the right, its black. Get ready with a shop vac or alot of towels, theres gonna be a flood. There are 2 clamps on black hoses that need to be taken off so that you can slide the hoses off the pump. Next remove the 3 bolts that hold the pump in place. Next lower the pump out of the hole it sits in. Youll have to follow the wiring harness up and disconnect it. Now you can try and clen out the pump or replace it. Part # is 285990. Costs about 75.00. Hope that helps. Let me know if yiu need more help. Dave www.washermd.com
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
FL (flood condition) also can be an indicator of a bad pump. The washer tries to drain and cannot because the pump has failed or is jammed with debris.
You can run a complete washer diagnostic procedure to see if you can isolate the fault by doing the following. I recommend you make sure the room is quiet so you can hear the pump motor running when expected, as well as the main drive that nutates and spins.
Perform a "key dance" to put the washer in the diagnostic mode by pressing the Prewash Options button, Wash Time, Prewash Options, Wash Time - each 2 times in rapid succession within 5 seconds total. The display will change to 99 and begin counting down (in seconds) as it runs the following tests. Listen for the pump motor to actually run and not just "hum", indicating a jam or burnout.
Display 99-81, Nutate & fill
Display 80-61, Nutate & recirculate
Display 60-41, Nutate, Fill & drain **
Display 40-21, Nutate, Fill & drain **
Display 20-0, Spin & drain **
You can cancel the test in progress at any time by pressing the Stop/Cancel button.
**during these phases the pump will run forwards and backwards (recirculate & drain). If you do not hear water pumping inside the washer or draining out the drain, your pump is likely bad and needs to be replaced.
The old style pump was a two-part assembly and the re-engineered part # mentioned above is a single piece that solves the impeller failure problem the original pumps were prone to have.
www.pcappliancerepair.com sells replacement pump part # 285990 for this washer and they are a reliable supplier with a good value. You can purchase a lifetime warranty on the pump from them for an extra fee.
Unfortunately there is not enough room in this text box to post the pump removal & replacement procedure but you can get your local handyman to do the work for you if you are not inclined, as I was, to drain the washer and turn it on its side to figure out how to replace the pump.
The other problem is that once you start getting a pump failure you need to look at the root cause. If the pump was ruined by draw strings or debris being sucked into the pump impeller, it is time to replace the top wash plate assembly (the plastic plate inside the washer that the clothes sit on).
There is a rubber seal on the outside edge of this plate which wears out over time and rotates upward, opening a bigger gap between the plate and the stainless steel drum which lets draw strings and other things get sucked all the way down into the pump. The upper wash plate & seal is a single unit and the seal itself cannot be replaced as it is molded into the plastic piece. Order this from Sears to insure a more recent 'cure date' on the rubber seal from the manufacturer, rather than 3rd party suppliers who might stock the part for longer periods and have old rubber seals past their cure date. The wash plate should be replaced about every other year.
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
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