Question about Refrigerators
Blow-up of parts and location of compressor and condenser
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: ge fridge
Most likely it is the defrost heater. (it's that thing at the bottom of the coils with two wires leading from it.) To test it for sure, you'd have to use an ohm meter, but many times you can visually see that the heater is bad. Defrost the coils with a hair blower. If you don't have the heater on hand, the refrig will work fine for a week until you can replace the heater.
Posted on Sep 20, 2008
Part number for compressor relay is WR7X222. However, you have a very old rotary compressor there and most likely it went bad. I would just buy a new fridge. Don't waste your time/money. The fridge is too old.
GE refrigerator repair in orange county, ca
Posted on Feb 06, 2010
Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;
Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.
It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.
Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:
There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.
If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.
The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.
If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.
Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food
As for the fridge, the same solution but for more details. If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.
1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.
I hope the above helps.......
Posted on Apr 03, 2011
SOURCE: GE Profile fridge: freezer is
Hello, welcome to FixYa.
I understand based on your post you have a GE profile PFS22MIS fridge not cooling in the fridge (upper cabinet) section, correct ?.
It is possible the problem is related to the condensor fan, but not likely. The difference with these fridges and many others (especially the older fridges) is the condensor fan does not run all the time. Instead the control board at the back (pcb) tells it when to run and at what rpm to run as well, it is a variable speed fan motor...and may in fact not run at all at periods.
The one thing I'd suggest you inspect is the back wall of the freezer. You mentioned the evaporator fan motor is operating, correct ? Is there any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer section, or if not visible have you removed the back wall of the freezer ?
I will need to watch for your reply before going forward. I hope you can appreciate there are so many variables since the fridge has many factors controlling air flow which in turn determine what the possible problem and solution will be.
Sounds to me it is a damper or blocked evaporator initially at least. Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.
Posted on Sep 20, 2011
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