Wiring outlet for electric range

That's the correct way to hook it up. Check the wires for possible insulation missing.

Insert model on this website

try to use black to black: white to red: and green and white to ground.
you may not have a 240 volt supply to this unit. most of the time when you have these color wires that would tell me that it only has 120 volts of power.
you can try to wire it up as described, but it may not heat enough with just 120 volts.
what type of cook top did you replace, a gas unit and now your changing it to an electric one?
if so, then you will have to replace the wiring inside the wall with the proper size wiring to handle the extra current from an electric unit.

white goes to neutral, bare copper to ground, red and yellow to one phase ( red L1 wire) and the black and blue to the other phase ( black L2 wire)

4 wire recepticals are used for 220 Volt appliances, there should be 2 hot (117V to ground) and one each Grounding and grounded (read neutral) conductors) Breaker or disconnect should be 2 pole for 220 Volt circuit. A 20 Amp 110/117 Volt circuit would have a single pole breaker or disconnect, one "hot" conductor(should be black or colored , not green or white), one neutral conductor (should be white or neutral with white stripe) and an equipment grounding conductor (should be green or bare copper). It sounds to me like your receptical was wired for 220 V using whatever colored wires were handy. Back up to breaker or fuse (disconnect), and shut off circuit. New 117 Volt outlet will be wired with Black to Brass colored screw (short slot on face), One White wire will be used for Neutral conductor (make sure you know which one it is at the breaker panel) and one of the other white wires may (but shouldent be) used for ground (use green marker to identify it at each end),The third white wire should be removed if you can, otherwise cap with wire nut at each end and coil up in back of boxes. At the breaker/ fuse panel, the Black wire is connected to the breaker (It will be your "hot" lead), The white being used for the Neutral is connected to the neutral buss bar with the other Neutrals, and the green goes to the grounding buss bar (should have other green or bare copper wires. Once all is properly connected and secured but without the disposal plugged in, turn on the power and check for leaking smoke (smoke here is a bad thing) The fuse or breaker should protect your wires and help keep that smoke inside the boxes. Check voltages at the new plug, 117 V accross Short and longer slot, 117 from short to ground (round) and 0 or close to it from long (Neutral) to ground. If voltages check, plug in the new appliance and test.
If in doubt about what you have, dont hesitate to contact an electrician, they get paid for their knowledge and experiance and their ability to keep that nasty smoke inside the boxes.
Good Luck.,

Older 3 wire connectors where Wht=Neutral Ground Return, Red=One Phase Hot, Blk=Second Phase Hot, of 220VAC stove connections.

Newer Electrical code standard has a forth wire that is bare copper for a separate safety ground return.
I suggest you but a 4 wire pig tail cable for your stove top, available at Depot or Lowes, and connect 3 wires of this 4 wire cable just like the 3 wires are now connected. The 4th bare copper safety is attached to any metal part of the stove. Find a screw you can loosen to wrap it around and tighten.

those wires dont go to the down draft. those colors are to hook up the stove. do you have the instalation instructions?

white to white green to copper red and black to black

hook the copper and white together. DO NOT leave the white unhooked.

On Cooktop From Box
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Black to Black
Red to Black w/red stripe
White to Ground
Green to Cooktop frame