Question about Ruud Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
That's the fan switch. It's a thermostat that controls the fan coming on and off, it's probably failed and needs to be replaced. You can see it if you take the front off the furnace, the wires come off it and go to the fan motor.
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
A green LED indicates system faults
Steady On: System OK
Steady OFF: Board control fault or no power applied
1 Flash: Ignition failure (control in one-hour lockout)
2 Flashes: Pressure switch fault, fails open (switch is
3 Flashes: Limit switch open (main or auxiliary)
4 Flashes: Pressure switch fault, fails closed (switch is
A yellow LED indicates flame status
Steady on: Normal flame is sensed
Flashes: As flame weakens, frequency of LED flashes
Posted on Dec 12, 2009
It sounds like your furnace is cycling off because your high temperature limit is tripping. This could be caused by a restriction of intake or outlet airflow. First thing to check is your intake air filter, clean or replace as needed. If that doesn't help, make sure your warm air registers are open, a rule of thumb is at least 60% of the total registers need to be open for adequate airflow. The high temp limits will reset themselves after they cool so that would explain it taking a few "cycles" to reach desired temperature. Good luck and please rate my answer if it was helpful.
Posted on Jan 05, 2010
You can make sure it is not the thermostat by crossing or jumping the R and W terminals (or associated wires) together. This will keep the furnace calling for heat. As it is approaching set temperature, get in front of the furnace and inspect the air filter to make sure it is clean, watch the control module for any error codes that may be turning off the system prematurely.
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.
What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
Posted on Mar 07, 2010
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