Question about GE DWSR463EGWW Electric Dryer

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My dryer starts, runs a few minutes, doesn't heat up and shuts itself off

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  • Contributor
  • 16 Answers

Check your sensors on the heater unit, there are two or more, simply us a meter and make sure power is on both sides of the sensor, if not then that specific sensor is bad and you should replace it, pull the sensor and tie the two wire together to see if it will heat, if it does replace the sensor they are cheap and will keep you from burning down the house

Posted on Jan 01, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1073 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer runs for minutes then stops timer keeps going and going and .....

remove the vent on the dryer that goes to the outside start the dryer if it continues to ru n and not cut off you have a venting problem of the house

if it cuts off after 5 mins with the vent off you have a motor that is going bad

Posted on Jun 11, 2008

SOURCE: Runs for 5 minutes then shuts off.

please contact the service authority because this is beyond your limit. to solve your problem, the back panel has to remove and only the service engineer knows the skill.......................sorry friend!

Posted on May 14, 2009

mreid542
  • 166 Answers

SOURCE: Heat shuts off after a few minutes

The model number listed above appears to be for an electric dryer.
Feel the top of the dryer right next to the backsplash. If this area in the middle gets extremely hot to the touch, then you have a vent problem. Check to make sure that your vent hose is not crimped or blocked in some way. don't use plastic vent hose.

Posted on Nov 15, 2009

  • 85 Answers

SOURCE: It starts and runs fine, heats up, but after 2-4

bad thermostat

Posted on Oct 19, 2010

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: My G.E. gas dryer model

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

I'll start by saying your post indicates it is obviously a GE gas dryer and
you mentioned you do get heat intermittently, and the drum does turn correct ?

If this is a symptom where the unit at first begins to heat but the flame drops out in a matter of seconds or minutes I would be looking at the air flow (which you have done) or burner coils.

Once you've gain access to the coils you'll need to remove the wire harness and check the continuity.

Here's the tricky part though...many times they will ohm out ok when cool (not operating) yet as soon as there is current passing through the coil it "opens". The wire inside the coils is so fine that often it only takes a small current to "open" the circuit, thus after running for a period the valve closes and flame drops out.

Most times it will only be one coil that fails but it is good practice to replace them both, many places used to sell them in a kit so double check with your supplier.

As far as what part you may need and how to get it. There are a couple of places I prefer, on-line at "searspartsdirect.com" or "repairclinic.com".

This kit in the link I've attached it contains both the two wire and three wire solenoids. One solenoid is the primary and one is the safety. Both have to operate for the gas valve to open. Usually, one of them burns out as I said but you should always replace them as a set.

**unplug the appliance and turn off the gas supply before attempting any service...safety first**


The most common is part number 3449 at "repairclinic" as this link should provide you.
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Gas-Valve-Solenoid-Set/5303931775/3449

Let me know how you make out or if you require further assistance and I'll do whatever I can. Thank you for your patience while I was away for a while. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Posted on Jun 16, 2011

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Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

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You really should post your make and model number and any error messages you get if any , I would guess the heat sensor or timer. Here is a website where professional appliance repairmen will answer your questions. Hope that helps you.
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/112843-dryer-shuts-off-after-getting-too-hot.html

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