Question about Masterbuilt 20070106 Electric Smoker

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Set temperature, it goes past it, then it keeps going down until it shuts off

I set my smoker to 225, it went up to 240, then it started going down with the temperature, when it showed 190, I restarted it thinking it might help. I had to leave and when I got back (5 hours) it should have just cut off and still been hot but it was already cold and meat was not fully cooked. How do I know if it's the thermostat or the heating element?

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  • 21,631 Answers

You can test the element by bypassing the thermostat. The element should come on and stay on, probably glowing cherry red. If it will continue to do that for an hour, then you know the element is good.

The problem sounds like a classic thermostat problem. It will come on from cold and up to temperature, but as it drops, the thermostat doesn't click back in because it is stuck open. Its sensitivity is gone, but when it goes cold, the temperature change is big enough to close the circuit.

Posted on Sep 17, 2017


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: My Masterbuilt electric smoker stopped heating will cooking

I just bought a new Masterbuilt Smoker by default two weeks ago I borrowed a friend’s to smoke about 30lb. of Salmon to then can. Ran the smoker every day for three day. ON my last batch the heating element would not work. Talk about Frustrated! The Smoker was only 2 yrs. old.

Knowing I borrowed I felt I had to replace. So online to Cabelas and I ordered my buddy a new smoker and had it shipped. I then found this website... GOT TO LOVE the internet. I saw many other people had the same problem. Found an Answer...

The Problem was one of the connector to the heating element was poor quality and if you don't clean your smoker on a regular basis. The heat and moister caused the small copper connector to corrode and the wire to come loose. I took a wood chisel and cut off all the rivets on the back. I was then able to pull the back off with no damage and access the small box in the lower back. I found the connector. Went to the hardware store and bought a replacement for .75 cents. A pair of wire crimpers and the problem was fixed. I also bought ½ inch Sheet metal screws to secure the back it was good as new. So I returned the smoker to my buddy and kept the new one. When it arrived I saw Masterbuilt has since fixed the problem and provided an access panel to the element and connectors.

Mike in Alaska

Posted on Jul 03, 2010

  • 171 Answers

SOURCE: 30" Masterbilt smoker won't get over 60 degrees. I

I am having the same problems with mine. I have rebuilt the connection, three times.
I am going to pull the element out and replace it with a single-burner heating element like the Proctor-Silex 34101. That will be plenty of heat for the smoking I do.

Posted on Jan 31, 2011

  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: In the recipe for Baby

Three hours of cooking @ 225.... start the timer after reaching temp.


Posted on May 27, 2011

  • 4736 Answers

SOURCE: While using my Masterbuilt smoker

SgtDave - Don't feel like the Lone Ranger. There have been a bunch of people seeking either the burner element and/or the electronic controls. The burner element is available form Appliance Factory Parts, but only with the smoker box. At one time is was sold separately, but now, the element by itself is no longer available. Even Masterbuilt no longer sells just the heating element. In part, if you check your Owner's Manual or the Manufacturer's Data Plate on the smoker, take note of the Country of Origin, you'll understand why.

Wish I could have been of more help to you.

Posted on Jul 11, 2011

SOURCE: masterbuilt eletric smoker: the control panel

I have one that is 3 yrs old and just had the same problem. After reading other posts this is what I did. I removed the wood chip holder. This is accomplished by removing two phillips head screws from the holder on the right where it attaches to the inside wall. Then the are to small bolts that have to be removed where it attaches to the frame in the center. Now you should all of the heating element. Remove the two outer screws where it attaches to the back wall. Don't take out the center one, it attaches the ground wire on the other side. Tip the heating element up and gently pull it out, it won't come far and you should be able to see if one of the wires has burned through. The wire had burned off the right hand portion of the element in mine. To repair it you need to access it from the back. Take out the screws that hold the time/temp control on top. Drill out all the rivets from the back outside panel, remove the bottom screws from the drip pan holder, and pull the panel off. Towards the bottom you will see the back side of a small metal box that covers the heating element connections. Pull that box out. Get some blue or red rtv sealant from your local auto parts store Clean the area around where the element mounts on the inside, put some sealant on the mounting plate and remount it. This serves to make it water tight to help prevent corrosion inthe future. I chose the leave the connection cover off the backside. If you do that as well you might need to use small bolts to remount the element since the screws screw into that box. In order to remoun the element wire you will need a yellow male spade clip available at the auto parts store, home depot, etc. Strip about 3/8 in of the insulation of the burned wire, place it in the center of the spade clip and crimp the yellow part. Slide the clip onto the element end. Reattach the time/temp control, plug in the smoker and turn it on to see if it heats. You can lightly and quickly touch the element inside the smoker to check for heat, carefully of course so you don't get burned. Assuming it works, unplug everything, return to the back and use rtv sealant to completely cover the connections to the element. Wait for it to set up and recoat a 2nd time. Plug everything back in and do a 2 or 3 hour test run. If that goes well, apply rtv sealant to the back of the smoker and use #10 1/2in sheet metal screws to reattach the back. Good luck!

Posted on Oct 13, 2011

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