Question about Reddy R155D Utility Heater

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Wont start cleaned the air filters, and put it back together.and it wont start, the ignitor lights fuel sprays and blower works..but still wont burn

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  • 92 Answers

Change the CAD flame sensor, it's a $3 part and they are all the same, just the mounting is different. Put it on your mount and sould be fine.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

  • tong castelli
    tong castelli Nov 05, 2013

    where is the cad flame sensor located i dont have a manual

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The heater will not light the kerosene starts then the ignitor lights then shuts off I tried repeatedlyto fire it no luck I think it might be an air adjustment


Here is the manual that will help you sort it out.

http://www.bealsmotor.com/Desa%20Hot%20Surface%20Manual.pdf

I think you have a photo cell or fuel issue as it ignitor trips but you do not get fuel.
Make sure you check the seal in the tank cap (Closed tightly) and the 2 hoses from the tank for cracks. The fuel system works via the 2 tubes. One is pressure the 2nd is fuel supply. Any leaks via either hose or the fuel cap will prevent fuel flow.

You may have to clean the fuel nozzle also. Just make sure to clean the photo cell carefully before putting it back together.

Unless you have an air filter(s) that is horribly clogged taking care of the above should get you going again.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Kelly

Jan 28, 2011 | Master Heaters Master B115DT 115,000BTU...

1 Answer

Heater would not start this morning It tried for a second and then just would not ignite. it was running fine yesterday


Take the top cover off of the unit. Plug it in and look at the ignitor for a bright glow or spark, depending on your ignition source. This should happen before the fan starts. Once the fan starts you should be able to see fuel spraying out of the spray nozzle. If there is no fuel, check the fuel screen, air output from the pump, air filters on the pump, and the correct air pressure from the pump. The nozzle can also be dirty. Check for air leaks on the pump by spraying soapy water on the pump while the blower fan is running.

Jan 18, 2011 | All-Pro Kerosene Garage Shop Heaters - All...

1 Answer

It is full of kerosene however when I plug it in to start, it will not turn on. It makes the effort for about two or three seconds then turns off


The safety is turning it off because it is not lighting. You did not mention if it was actually trying to light, or if it was just the motor running. If it is not lighting, take the top cover off and watch the ignitor. Depending on the type of ignitor, it will either glow or spark when you plug the heater in. This should happen before the fan starts running. Once the fan starts, you should be able to see a mist of fuel coming out of the nozzle. If there is no fuel spray you may have an air pump problem, which is on the back of the motor, or the fuel screen in the tank may be plugged.
1. Check for ignition source
2. Blower motor should start, if you have ignition
3. Fuel should spray out of nozzle, if not check filter and check for air flow out of the pump.
4. If you do not have any air flow, or not enough air flow check the pump. Pressure out is critical.
5. If pressure is too low check for leaks around the pump. Spray soapy water on the back side of the motor/pump housing. The plastic pump cover is bad about cracking, and the cracks are very hard to see. The plastic cover could also be loose on the pump.
6. While on this end of the pump; the filters need to be clean, as they will affect the pump pressure and upset the whole apple cart.

Jan 18, 2011 | Reddy Heater-30-55,000 BTU Variable

1 Answer

I HAVE A 115,000 btu Keroscene heater. It just stopped running.


Take the top cover off of the unit. Plug it in and look inside the burner can to see if the ignitor is glowing. If not you probably need an ignitor. You can remove it to check the heating element to see if it is intact, but be very careful, it is more fragile than glass. If it is intact, you may have a control board issue. The ignitor should glow before the fan starts. Be careful to stay away from the fan blades while doing this. If the ignitor glows, and the motor starts, you should then be able to see fuel spraying out of the spray nozzle. You may need a flash light. If the fuel does not spray out of the nozzle in the correct amount, the unit will shut down. There is a photo cell that detects ignition. If the fuel pattern does not look even, you could have low air pressure out of the pump, a dirty fuel nozzle, or a plugged fuel screen inside of the tank. The air pressure comes from a pump on the back side of the blower motor. Insure that the filter are clean on the pump; there are three of them, and the plastic end cap needs to come off to access them. If they are dirty, they need to be replaced. The air pressure off of this pump is very critical to proper fuel delivery. The rated output pressure of the pump is on the heater data plate. You will need a low pressure air gage to check this pressure. Another source of low air pressure is the plastic end cover over the filters. They tend to crack with age. Spray soapy water on the end cap while the blower is running to look for leaks.

Jan 18, 2011 | Reddy Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have Reddy Heater 155 Pro. I fired up yesterday for the first time in months. I put in fuel, but this morning It sparks to fire, but will not light. but it appears to have fuel blowing out. It will not...


This morning I had an identical problem with a new heater, the culprit ended up being the fuel tank had water down inside it. Condensation causes this when you store them. I ended up draining it in to a five gallon bucket and then watched the water separate and go to the bottom of the bucket. Needless to say cleaning out the tank was real fun, after draining it I stuffed rags down in the tank to **** up the water, siphoned off the fuel from the water with an electric pump and filled the heater up now it is working fine. Remove the top cover and check the burning tray over real good, I would clean the flame sensor with windex and soft terry cloth rag. Then pull some preventative maintenance, locate the nozzle, remove it, nwo they say that you can not clean these but I say with a q-tip, carb cleaner,and a tooth pick you can with out damaging the nozzle. Directly behind the nozzle is a screen clean this as well, now put it back together. Inspect all fuel lines for holes, dry rot and cracks, if all is good move on to the side cover where the fuel line goes thru to the fuel tank. Remove it and locate the fuel line and filter, remove the filter and clean with compressed air and a blow gun, blowing air backwards thru the filter, instantly clean. Now put it back together and inspect lines again. On the back of the fuel pump is a foam filter for air intake remove it and clean with dish soap and water, be sure to dry really good then put it back and button your heater back up. Now you are ready for testing and happy heating.

Dec 23, 2010 | Reddy R155D Utility Heater

1 Answer

Torpedo heater shuts off after several minuets, will not start again 5-6 minuets


These heaters require some preventative maintenance from year to year and here is my routine. There is a flame sensor in the burning tray, these collect carbon deposits, dust and dirt, and occasional insect nesting area. Locate the flame sensor by removing the top half of the heater, now remove it and clean with windex and soft terry cloth rag. Replace sensor and be sure it has an unobstructed view of the flame. Fuel is next, with the top still off locate the fuel nozzle, remove it and the say you can not clean these but I find that carb cleaner, q-tips and a tooth pick work just fine to clean them. Now when you remove the nozzle there is a screen filter directly behind it, these can corrode over storage so clean it too. Now inspect fuel lines for cracks, holes and dry rot. Put fuel system back together and the top on. The fuel line comes down thru the side panel and thru a filter then in to the tank. Remove side panel, locate fuel line, remove the filter and clean with a compressor and air gun. Blowing air thru the filter backwards will clean these right out. Put it back in line, put side panel back together. Next is the air filter on the inlet of the pump, they are foam. Clean this and dry it real good then put it back. Really look in the fuel tank to make sure you have no water,rust, or any other contaminants in the tank, fill with new fuel and you are ready for heat. Sounds complicated but really isn't, take your time and in an hour you will have this heater running like new.Good Luck

Dec 23, 2010 | Dayton E50 Heater

2 Answers

70,000 BTU Ready Heater


If...the air pump pressure is right, the ignitor glows, the fuel is hitting the ignitor, then the unit will have combustion......unless.....
  1. there is an air leak on the pressure line
  2. there is a vacuum leak on the fuel line
  3. there is a leak at the nozzle adapter
  4. there is a restriction either in the nozzle or the fuel filter
  5. the nozzle is worn and is spraying fuel rather than fogging fuel

Feb 09, 2009 | Reddy Heater-70,000 BTU Kerosene w/T'stat

1 Answer

Sears forced air kero heater wont start, spitting fuel out front


sounds like the ignitor is bad, mine would try to light and do the same thing. I noticed one night that it was arcing out the entire length of the wires to the plug. If you have a good spark then i would suggest a CAD flame sensor, very cheap.

Jan 22, 2009 | Reddy Heater-70,000 BTU Kerosene w/T'stat

2 Answers

Dayton 3e219e


This is normal operation for this heater IF it does Not light. This has a photo 'eye' that looks for the flame and if it does not see the flame it will shut the unit down. It could be one of a few things. First.....Does the ignitor get hot and 'glow' cherry red? If not, either the ignitor is bad or the ignition board may be bad. You can check this by removing the top and watch it (the ignitor)while you plug it in, just be careful for the fan as it should start. If the ignitor glows then it is not the ignitor or the board. At this point you can make a sure bet it is in the air pump circuit. There are several filters in this unit. Very carefully take the four screws out of the back to remove the cover( it is a rectangle piece about 3 inches by five inches by 1.5 inches...about as this is off the top of my head) These are very fragile so be VERY carefull. There are three filters in this. One is removeable from the outside before anythis is disassembled. It is like a sponge and must be cleaned on a regular basis. Inside there is a cork like gasket TAKE CARE NOT TO BREAK IT. If you kreak it you must replace it. They do not work very well spliced together. Now that you are inside check the other two filters. One is very small like the size of a pencil eraser or smaller. Note where it came from so you can replace it afler you clean it. The other one is quite larger and is like a piece of filter paper. When it is new it is white. They clog up with the carbon from the air pump. You can carefully try and clean it but your best bet is to just replace it. Next clean and inspect the cover. They do crack on occasion and when they do it is LIGHTS OUT for the heater. Look Very close as it may be just a hairline crack, but that is all it takes to stop this from operating. Take the hose that leads to the nozzle off at the pump and blow a little air through it and make sure you are getting fuel spray out of the nozzle. Make sure the fuel line is clear and the filter, if it has one and it should, is clear as well. Reassemble and be carefull on torquing the screws on the cover. If you over tighten them SNAP the cover cracks and it's LIGHTS OUT again. The majority of these that I have worked on, about 98% the problem was either the inner filter and/or the cover was cracked. GOOD LUCK

Jan 11, 2008 | Dayton Electric Heater

5 Answers

REDDY HEATER PRO 70


I have a Reddy Heater R100 that ran just fine until one day it

wouldn't ignite. I took the cover off to see if it was sparking and it

ran just fine with the cover off. I got on the Internet to see if there

was a definitive answer as to why it would only run with the cover off;

there wasn't. So I decided to troubleshoot it step by step instead of

replacing everything at once. You can thank me later.

Step 1: Dumped out old fuel, made sure the tank was completely dry and

clean. Put in fresh kerosene. This is an absolutely hideous job.

Result: Still would only burn with the cover off. Said bad words.

Step 2: Replaced all three filters. Result: Still would only burn with

the cover off. Didn't say bad words, just thought them.

Step 3: Removed the end filter cover and pushed on the pressure relief

ball. It seemed to be stuck.
so I marked the relief screw, counted the exact number of turns to take

it out, and washed the end filter cover and small parts with Dawn

dishwashing detergent. Harsh solvents can melt the plastic on the end

filter cover. Blew everthing dry. Put a little oil on the spring and

ball so they wouldn't rust. Put the relief screw, spring and ball

together, making sure I turned the screw back in the same number of

turns that I took it out with, within a tolerance of about 1/8 turn.

Result: Still would only burn with the cover off.

Step 3: Downloaded a manual from:

http://www.desatech.com/manuals.cgi?products=Construction%20Heaters to

find out the spark plug gap. They didn't have one for an R100 so I used

the one for a R100EDI. I cleaned and set the spark plug gap to .055".

I think later heaters use .075" or .085". Check your manual. Result:

Still would only burn with the cover off.

Step 4: Removed the nozzle. Put a clean paper towel under the input and

sprayed carburetor cleaner into the output end of the nozzle,

backflushing it. Four or five pieces of crud came out, onto the paper

towel. Really cleaned the nozzle good. Blew it off with compressed air

to make sure all of the carburetor cleaner was evaporated. Replaced the

nozzle. Result: O frabjous day! It worked just fine for about a half

hour, then it started coughing and smoking.

Step 5: Removed the nozzle again. Put a clean paper towel under the

input and sprayed carburetor cleaner into the output end of the nozzle,

backflushing it again. Four or five pieces of crud came out, onto the

paper towel, again. Really cleaned the nozzle good, again. Cleaned the

fuel filter and the upper fuel line. Made sure everything evaporated

before I put it back together. Result: works great with the cover on.

Ran the tank of fresh fuel empty. Put the original fuel back in, it

works too.

So, if in the future, I have the problem where it doesn't burn with the

cover on, I'm going to start with the nozzle, upper fuel line and fuel

filter.

Dec 20, 2007 | Reddy R70ET Utility Heater

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