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Depends, What Is it on? MAKE, MODEL, YEAR. Without knowing what I'm diagnosing... it could be a connector isn't fully connected(check wiring connectors and wire harness) LQQK for loose connectors and any broke or frayed wires that may be causing a GROUNDING FAULT. It may be a BLOWN FUSE
If it has a speedo drive cable, (it would help me if I knew WHAT I was working on) If it has a cable, It may be BROKE or may have become dislodged from the case.
Hope this helps.
If it is a floor shift models it is a broken wire on the solenoid on the right lower of the shifter. Take the console out by unsnapping the trim from around the shifter and removing it. Next take out the screws (7mm, 2 of them on either side of the shifter) and there are 4 more of the same size inside the cubby in the console, exposed by lifting tthe cubby lid, emptying the crap out of it and lifting the felt up. Take all of the screws out and then move the shifter to the 1st gear position and remove a phillips head screw on the front of the shifter to remove the shift handle. Now lift out the console. You will more than likely see the broken wire when you look at the lower right side of the shifter close to the floor. Repair this connection by cutting all 4 wires leading to the harness plug and splicing 4 extra inches of wire to each and also repair the connection that broke out of the harness plug. The only option I found was to buy a fuel pump wire harness repair kit to get the connecters needed. The problem is that GM did not put enough slack in the wires leading to the shift interlock solenoid and when repeated drive to park shifting is done will stress this connection. Sometimes it will make it not disengage the shift interlock solenoid and you can not get it into drive from park, other times it breaks the wire for the key release. This should fix your problems, otherwise you have a problem with the BCM. SHould save you all a ton of GM service department spending.
Hi, there is 2 things you can do, like Ted sad it just a light, so you can just go 2 any auto store explained what happened and just get an extention wire 4 Yr red1 with connections and isolation that you can just connect 2 Yr broken wire and clamp it with just plyers with out any soldering tools. Or get any similar wire and just tire up 2 Yr broken wire with the plyers and use some electrical tape over it so it doesn't short with the ground. That's all. G/luck.
On the driver side, the window/door lock module has the power lead either pulling away from the connection or has broke entirely. Another common cause is the wire harness between the door jam, this is the area that has a rubber boot covering the wires and from opening and closing the door, it creates a broken or loose connection over time. Open the driver side door, grab the rubber boot that the wires run thru, and move it around. Some times this will help create the connection and restore the power. If not, the door panel will need to be removed to inspect the wire connections.
check the wiring harness near the Hatch Asy for bare or broken wires, check the grid on the window for broken traces along the heat grid. There are usually one wire on each side of the grid, one is probably loose or broken
Check the wiring and see if there are any broken wires, or loose connections. See if there is a relay in the wiring harness. If so, you may want to replace it.
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