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Re: won't maintain an arc
Look on the front panel, you will see a dial with "-------" dashes underneath the dial. this is for stitch welding, turn this dial off, (anticlockwise). this is a timer for stitch welding and the dial is a timer. for continues welding this must be off. also some units have a spot timer, as above but has "......" dots under the dial, again this must be swithch off.
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This machine is supposed to be hooked up to a 20 amp breaker all alone, with nothing else running off that 20 amp breaker. Also are you using an extension cord? It is usually not recommended to do so, although I have the same machine and it seems to do just fine. Just make sure you are getting proper power to the machine.
Arc blow could be the cause! Put your ground on the work piece and weld away from it. If you weld toward a ground clamp the magnetic forces will blow your arc around sometime. When taking a cert this simple mistake can make or break ya on your cap or reinforcement beads.
A number of things can cause "****" inclusions, poor Technique, bad fit up, Amperage too low, Electrodes damp---etc. Firstly you are using AC-- Check the Electrode carton for the correct ampage, then check the set up, this is the electrode use AC or DC, most 6013 work better on AC terminal setting dont matter + or -- earth.
If you weave too wide you will loose the fluidity on the weld metal, meaning you will be welding over the ****.
before welding the bead, start and iniciate the weld pause a second until the arc is established then move off.
Are you using combination argon/co2 gas? You need a flow regulator and should have it set for about 10cfm. Note that this is different than a pressure regulator. The problem you note is a result of inadequate or improper gas.
If you are using flux wire and not shielding gas, your clamp should be positive and the wire should be negative. Heat is provided by the electrical arc that happens between the wire and the material. Your welder by itself does not pre heat the material and with 3/16 material you should not need to preheat anyway.
The electrical arc is kept consistent by adjusting the wire feed rate and the current applied. You will need to experiment with these settings to find what works best with your welder. For this welder and 3/16 material, I would suggest you start at the upper end of the current scale and about a third of the way up on wire speed. The welder might have a chart for these settings in the manual or inside cover.
If the wire feeds too fast, it will push the probe around and you will feel pressure as the wire feeds out. If the speed is too slow you will get large spatters and intermittent arcs. When properly adjusted the arc will sound even and consistent. The arc gap should always be about 1/8 of an inch.
To maintain enough heat for good penatration, do not move the probe too fast, work in a pattern and watch the weld pool (melted metal) and not the arc. Watching the weld pool will clue you in if you are moving too fast or too slow.
MIG stands for Metal Inert Gas welding, many times called Wire-feed.. Also referred as GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding). The "Metal" refers to the wire which is what is used to start the arc. It is shielded by inert gas and the feeding wire also acts as the filler rod. A semi-automatic process, it is fairly easy to learn and use.