Question about Electrical Supplies
I have connected my dimmer switch by following the diagram/instruction in the instructions. Somewhere along the way, I must have messed up, because now only the switch on/off works and not the dimmer. Here are some additional details about the room: I am putting a dimmer in the kitchen. Currently, there are two separate switches. One by the fridge and one by the door of the kitchen. Originally, they both just had on and off switches. Now, I am trying to replace the switch by the fridge to be a dimmer switch, so I purchased a three way dimmer. The wiring inside the wall consisted of white wires that were bundles together and capped (Two from top, one from bottom of wall). Ground wires from top and bottom connected together. One black wire and three black wires coming from the top. The bottom black wire was bundled with two of the black wires from the top and one of the top black wires was left by itself. There is also one red wire coming from the top of the wall. In Summary: I have a bundle of white wires capped, a bundle of black wires, one stand-alone black wire, one red wire coming from top, and a bundle of ground wires. I have attached the following to the wall from the switch: -Green wire from switch to Ground wire in wall. -Black wire from switch to bundle of black wires from wall. -Red Wire (used in 3-way installation-tagged) from switch to the red wire in wall. -Red wire from switch to the standalone black wire in wall. What have I done wrong? It turns on and works fine with the second switch near the kitchen door, but no luck in dimming. Additional information: I have four halogen bulbs in my receding ceiling lights.
Please read this entirely before attempting.
I am an electrician and would like to help you with this problem. You have provided great detail of your situation, yet I am confused about the statement describing how you wired it:
"-Red Wire (used in 3-way installation-tagged) from switch to the red wire in wall."
Before checking wiring, be sure to shut off the power to the circuit.
The "tagged" wire should be the one you identified with tape (when you removed the original) that was connected to the dark colored (called a "shunt" or "common terminal") screw of the switch.
In a 3 way installation, both red wires from the dimmer switch are used. In a single pole installation, only the UNinsulated red wire is used and the insulated wire is not.
To which wire do you affix the "tag"? If it was a short wire that ran between the the bundled black wires and the shunt terminal screw of the old switch, then the dimmer switch's black wire should be combined with these bundled black wires. One of the dimmer switch's red wires would be connected to the red wire in the box and the dimmer switch's last red wire would be connected to the remaining black wire in the box. I understand that this is the way you have it currently wired - but without being able to dim.
If this is all correct, did you check / change the Minimum Brightness Adjustment setting for the switch as detailed in Step 7 of the directions?
"This Dimmer incorporates a
minimum brightness adjustment
that allows you to set the level of
light when the slider control lever is
in the lowest position.
Move slider to the lowest position.
Using a small, insulated screwdriver,
rotate the adjustment screw as
shown until the desired level of
minimum brightness is obtained."
I hope this helps and good luck!
Posted on Jan 16, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Single Pole Dimmer Installation
I'm not sure if this is going to work in your case, but I'm pretty sure it will...
Green to ground (probably bare)
Black to black
White to the red that's not labeled 3-way
wire nut on the red labeled 3-way
That should fixya!
Posted on May 30, 2009
You will need to return the 3-way dimmer and get a single pole dimmer, as the Lutron Skylark series is suspectible to failure if connected to a live circuit first, or misconnected at intial installation. As an electrician, I ceased using these dimmers years ago, due to the rash of call-backs by customers and went with Leviton togglers and have had excellent results.
If you purchased it at a 'big box' store, they will accept the return as a defective item, as they have national agreements with their suppliers to accept customer returns. Just tell them it didn't work and you want a store credit, you can then purchase the lower priced single pole dimmer you need and save some money in the process too.
Hope you find this Very Helpful - best regards!
Posted on Aug 19, 2009
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You are correct in assuming green is the ground and connects to bare copper wire. Black is always the HOT wire and should be attached to the black wire. Red wire connects to white wire.
Posted on Sep 13, 2009
SOURCE: The task was to replace
Generally, 3 wires indicate a "3way" switch where you have 2 switches at opposite entrances to a room. Both the Red and Black Can be hot, depending on the other switches position. But, a red wire would normally only be found at the switch box not the light.
What I'd suggest, is that you get a multimeter, and use it to determine the hot wire and the ground/neutral. Once you know which wire is hot, connect the hot to the black lead, and ground/neutral to the white lead of the light. That is the only SAFE manner I can see to resolve this.
Posted on Mar 02, 2010
All your wiring looks good. Many times dimmer just have problems and are faulty. You should note that the dimmer can only handle 600 watts. If you have that or more on it, than you have probably fried the dimming mechanism. In either case the dimming mechanism is not working properly and you will have to take it back and get the same dimmer or a different one. Tell the store they sold you a faulty dimmer and you can get a replacement at no cost.
Posted on May 29, 2010
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