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How do I disconnect the union fitting to the water supply

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Push in, hold the piece that has movement, and pull out.

Posted on Dec 31, 2012

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Rhepre 40-4 wtr heater leaking from cold water intake


Firstly, don't confuse condensation on the pipe with a leak. The cold water inside the pipe makes the pipe cold. The warmer air around the pipe causes condensation to appear - much the way a glass of cold water "sweats" on a table in a warm room.

Next, determine exactly where the source of the leak is. If it is at a soldered or threaded junction of pipes or pipe an tank, you should be able to solve it - if you know how to solder.

You'll have to power off the tank at the circuit breaker (or shut off the gas supply if not an electric type) before doing anything else. Next, shut off the cold water supply to the tank. This valve must be on the supply side of the leak. If the leak is ahead of the valve, you might need to shut off the water to the entire building. Then, open the closest hot water faucet. Finally, lower the water level of the tank by draining the tank from the bottom valve (you'll need to connect a garden hose to it and run the end to the outdoors, shower drain, toilet, etc.). Keep in mind - the water will not drain "up hill". That means the end of the hose must be lower than the top of the tank. You do not need to drain the entire contents of the heater unless you need to physically move it (or if it is a natural gas or propane type - as a licensed plumber or pipe fitter will be required to disconnect / reconnect the fuel line). A few gallons of water should be enough to allow working on the pipe without causing spills.

Disconnect the cold water supply pipe from the tank - above the source of the leak. You may have to do this by un-soldering the nearest pipe coupling with a propane or mapp gas torch. Soak a thick cloth in cold water and wrap it around the pipe at the tank's inlet to prevent the heat from the torch from damaging the plastic inlet fitting inside the tank. If the inlet connector is melted or damaged; the entire tank must be replaced. Additionally, you might need to unsolder the hot water piping to get better access to the cold water pipe. Only disconnect as much as needed to do the job.

Once the pipe(s) are disconnected, remove the section of pipe that mates with the leak. You will probably need wrenches to unthread pipe sections or fittings so that you can carefully inspect the male and female threads. Fully remove the pipes & fittings and obtain replacements as needed.

You might want to think about installing unions on the hot and cold water pipes. These will make future removal of the tank very easy with no need for soldering. Doing this will increase the time it takes to do the job this time, but simplifies tank removal in the future. You're already into this job - and its only few more extra steps.

Before reassembly, you should provide several wraps of teflon tape around the threaded portion of all male pipe threads. Telfon tape is highly suggested as it is clean and very easy to work with when compared with pipe dope that is applied with a brush. Carefully thread the pipes into the fitting(s) on the tank hand tight. If you are presented enough pipe or fitting to hold the tank inlet fitting, do so with a wrench. Use a second wrench to fully tighten the pipe into fitting. If there is no way to hold the inlet fitting, use a wrench to tighten the pipe about an additional full turn. Always use two wrenches to tighten pipes into fittings when possible. Make up any other threaded fittings (unions, etc.) and pipes as needed. Dry fit the copper pipes together - cut long pieces and replace short pieces of pipes as needed. Once all the pieces are are the correct length and fit together properly prepare for soldering. Clean the outside ends of all copper pipes and insides of couplings and connectors to be soldered with emery cloth, sand paper, or wire brush tools designed for expressly this purpose etc. until they are fully scuffed up and are bright and shiny. Wipe any dust and debris from the pipe with a clean, dry cloth. Try not to touch the cleaned parts of the pipe with bare hands. Apply a light coating of soldering flux to the cleaned ends and fit the pipes with couplings together again like the dry fitting earlier. Place a wet cloth around the pipes nearest the inlets (as before when removing the pipes) once again.

Heat the couplings and fittings one at a time with just enough heat to cause the solder to be wicked into the fitting. It is important not over heat the fittings or pipes. Be sure to let solder flow all the way around the pipes and into both ends of the coupling to ensure a complete solder seal both in and out of the coupling. Wipe away excess solder with a wet cloth to keep your work good looking. Once one fitting has been completed, go to the next and repeat until all fittings and pipes are soldered and clean. A good soldered joint should have a ring of solder visible all the way around the pipe inside the edge of the coupling.

If you've never soldered before, you should practice before doing this repair. Botched soldered joints could result in water damage and additional repair work that is greater than the original problem. Of course, a licensed plumber will make short work of this job and is an excellent alternative to DIY when money for the repair is available.

Good luck!

Dec 18, 2011 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

1 Answer

I cannot get the water in the water heater to drain out


Are we talking about the big water heater for the whole house?-- the a 30 ro 40 gallon water heater-- one that stands several feet tall?

What heats it?-- Electric or Gas-- or what?

You have shut off the water supply to it?--

If electric:
AND THE ELECTRIC TO IT!!-- so you don't burn out the heater elements?

Can you find any drain plug near the bottom?
Some heaters have a valve at the bottom-- does yours?

Some Electric Water heaters make you remove the heating element to drain it--
You can remove the electric wires, and slip a big deep socket over the hex shoulders on the threaded type--- Or remove the bolts on the flanged type--
Which is yours?
And it helps to open a hot water faucet somewhere-- to let air into the tank, so water can run out the bottom.

If you are talking about an instantaneous water heater, it will mean opening some union fittings on the supply and return fitting of the heater-

Tell us more, so we can help more.

Mack B

Jan 18, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a jacuzzi magnum force pump I am trying to plumb the pvc into the pump I lost the screw down union what size do I need to buy and where do I buy a union to fit this pump


Go to your local pool supply get a union to match the sise of your pipe ... or ... just glue it together today and add the uniion next time you have to take that part out.

Jun 05, 2010 | Jacuzzi Cyget In Ground Pool Pumps

1 Answer

How do i take freezer door off a side by side frig that has water/ice options


usally a quick disconnect block for wireing harness on top freezer hing. There will be a water supply tube going up through bottom freezer hinge with a disconnect union fitting close by usally under refrig behind toe grill. once these are disconnected you can then take top hinge off of main part of refrig. by taking screws off on top of upper freezer hinge. you then should be able to lift door off by lifting up on door and water line should slide up and through the bottom hinge.

Feb 27, 2010 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

My gaggia evolution leaks water while making coffee .It appears to be coming from inside the machine and leaks everywhere.I have disassembled the machine but i still can 't see where the water is coming...


There are many possible points that the leak can be.

All points of the water supply from water tank to the pressure pump then to boiler and finally to coffee group. All this are connected together with plastic or Teflon pipes with easy fit unions secure with clips

Oct 22, 2009 | Gaggia Evolution Espresso Machine

2 Answers

Leaves in the skimmer line and its plugged


Is the obstruction on hte suction side or supply side of the pump?

Either way, you can disconnect the pump, and work from there. If the pump was installed correctly there shgould be unions ( fitting that can be reconnected on the pump suction and supply. If not, you can cut the pipes a few inches from the pump and then shorten the remainder to acomodate the length of the union. Glue these in place follow the instructions on the glue can.

Try using a water hose with the water on from the direction of the pump to the pool. see if this does the job. Leaves should be able to be pulled through by the oumop, I suspect somthing larger. Do you have a strainer on the suction line? Have you checked the pool filter?

I would check the filter first. Why do you think the problem is a clogged line? How do you know the pump is performing? Does it run a Spa, and nbot the pool?
\Good Luck

Mar 17, 2009 | AO Smith 1 1/2 HP 115/230V 56C Replacement...

2 Answers

My self priming spa pump wont prime


Check fittings at front of pump for tightness. Threds have to been hand tight with 1.5 to 2 full turns with wrench. Also put ear to front of inlet fitting into pump and listen for air hissing, also an indication that threads arent tight enough or misaligned.

Jan 20, 2009 | Pool & Spa

1 Answer

Pump support


Follow these steps to replace a malfunctioning sump pump. If you are starting from scratch and want to put in a completely new sump pump and drain line, you should have a professional plumber do any actual piping unless you have an advaced knowledge of those techniques. Locate the sump pump in your basement. Unplug it to avoid possible electrical shock or personal injury. Find the place to disconnect the pump from the drain line. This is usually either a screw-together type union or a rubber coupling with hose-clamp fastenings. Both are quickly and easily undone. Remove the pump from the pit and allow it to drain for a few minutes. Any plastic piping or fittings that comes from the water outlet opening and goes up to where the pump connected to the drain line needs to be removed and saved to reattach to the new pump. Take the pump with you to your local hardware store, plumbing-supply house or home-improvement center. They can help you pick a replacement that requires the same power source and provides the same drain-line hookups and pumping capabilites. Reattach any piping and fittings in the same way that they were on the old pump. Set the new pump in the pit and reconnect the union. Plug in the pump. You can test the pump by filling the sump pit with buckets of water.

Aug 27, 2008 | Belle Group BHB30 - for 8 gallon Hydraulic...

1 Answer

Water Heater Replacement


1) After shutting off the water and gas or power supply to the tank, connect a hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, open the valve, and run it to a nearby drain or outdoors. Use two wrenches to unscrew the inlet and outlet fittings from the top of the tank. 2) For a gas water heater, shut off the gas inlet valve and use two wrenches to disconnect the union or flare fitting between the gas supply pipe and the inlet valve. Also remove the flue hat that expels gasses into the flue at the top of the tank. 3) After removing the old unit, set the new one in place with the controls and burner accessible. Allow at least 6 inches of clearance around its perimeter, and keep it away from flammable materials. Use a level to check it for plumb; shim the base with pieces of asphalt shingles or plastic wedges. 4) Wrap the threads of the heat trap fittings with pipe-wrap tape, and screw the fittings into the water heater (blue into the cold water inlet and red into the hotwater outlet). Be sure the arrows marked on the fittings point in the direction of water flow. 5) Install new flexible connectors on the water inlet and outlet pipes. If there is no shutoff valve on the cold water side, install one before connecting the water heater. After all connections are complete, open the shutoff valve to fill the tank. While it is filling, open several hot water faucets in the house to bleed off air in the pipes. 6) Assemble the gas pipes as shown. Spread pipe dope on the threads, and screw together the parts, tightening them with one pipe wrench on the pipe and another on the fitting. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for connecting the unit with gas supply tubing. After turning on the gas, test all connections by brushing soapy water on them and watching for bubbles.

Aug 27, 2008 | Stiebel Eltron Tankless Water Heater

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