Question about Hotpoint Refrigerators
Water leaking on bottom inside of refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There is a plastic panel inside the frigidaire looking at the underside of the freezer inside the refrigerator compartment which holds the thermostate dial and the light fixture. remove the four 1/4 in hex head screws holding the assembly. pull the panel toward the front. you will expose the drain hose connection you can let it dangle from the plug wires or remove the panel completely, I worked with mine in place. look at the back funnel shape drain. just in front of that see a rectangular styroform collar which should be snug fit to match the underside. clean and dry all. there is a divider between the two funnel compartments, mine was separated between the plastic and the styroform. I used kitchen and bath tub caulking to seal the gap. and a little around the rectangle shape that fits to the underside. plug the wire back in if disconnected. reassemble the panel. that may fix it. good luck.
Posted on Jun 17, 2008
Water can leak from these areas:
The bottom front of the refrigerator or freezer door
The back of the refrigerator
The inside ceiling of the refrigerator
The inside back wall of the refrigerator
Underneath the front of the refrigerator
The bottom front of the refrigerator or freezer door Self-defrosting refrigerators usually dispose of the water generated during the defrost cycle via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. From the pan, the water normally evaporates. (See a more detailed explanation of this in the How Things Work section of our website).
If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and leaks into the inside of the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds up at the bottom, inside of the refrigerator. When the water has built up for a time it may spill out of the front of the door opening. To fix this problem, clear the drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow down to the drain pan.
In some refrigerators, the defrost water is intentionally directed down the back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain--usually located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this problem, clear the obstruction.
Another cause may be the following. The refrigerator may have doorframe heaters to evaporate any condensation on the cabinet frame. If your refrigerator is equipped with a switch inside that says “energy saver” or something similar, while running in that mode the door heaters are disabled. Turn the switch to the opposite setting and wait 24 hours. If the condensation disappears the problem is solved.
The back of the refrigerator Water coming from the back of the refrigerator usually comes from either the ice maker water valve or line (if there is an ice maker), or from the defrost drain pan.
Here's what to do:
The inside back wall of the refrigerator In some refrigerators, the water from the defrost cycle is intentionally directed down the back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain - usually located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this problem, clear the obstruction.
Underneath the front of the refrigerator If the refrigerator is equipped with a water dispenser on the freezer door, check if the water line to the dispenser is leaking. Also, check the drip pan to be sure it isn’t out of place, broken or cracked.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
This ia a common problem that indicates the drain from freezer is clogged or blocked. I will send you to another link to help explain how to resolve this, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use
and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater
comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost
drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the
freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
Posted on Oct 01, 2009
This sounds like the problem I responded to for another user. I hope it works for you.
I got this when the J-trap on the back of the fridge was blocked, not allowing condensation to properly drain into the drain pan.
I solved this problem by pulling the black drain tube off the J-trap (you may need to loosen the holding clamp at the bottom of the tube), giving the J-trap (it's about 2" round) a slight twist to release it from the sheet metal, and carefully pulling it out. Be careful as the sheet metal is sharp. You will see a 1" PVC tube end that fits inside the J-trap. This must be inside the trap when reassembling.
Flush out the J-trap and reassemble.
Posted on Nov 25, 2009
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