Question about Maytag Washing Machines

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The agitator drum came lose and pulls all the way out not connected

The agitator drum came disconnected and pulls right out of the tub model number LAT9357AAE

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  • 291 Answers

Lisa go here and click on the illustration that says, "TUB" on the left side of page. See if you can figure out what broke by comparing to yours.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Maytag-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-LAT9357AAE/3048/0153200/M0206024/00004?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

Posted on Dec 30, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: trying to get top of cabrio washer to pull

There are two retention clips along the front located about 4-5 inches from each corner. After you get the top up, you will have to pop off the little cover that will reveal the agitator bolt. After removing the bolt, you can pull the agitator and the entire drum (take off top water flow thing as well). I pulled about $1.96 out of the bottom of mine but also had to pull the drain pump to get change out of it as well. For the person that said his washer made a noise during the spin cycle and thought it was a bearing, I would look for change behind the drum and in the pump first.

Thanks,

Bobby

Posted on Nov 20, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: Performa Washer model PAVT454EWW does not agitate,

HI. the internal components that make up the agitator should be inspected for damage.
The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction. Another issue that might cause this disruption is the Motor coupler.
Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.
Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.
There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.
Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.
**(((If the motor couple is in good condition, replace the agitator components and clutch assembly as well.)))

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

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I think a sock is wrapped around the gear, I tried to grab the sock but it fell between the inside of the drum. How do I take the agitator out to so that I can pull the drum out?


To take the agitator out, you have to first take the cap off first. Then inside you will see another cap normally which you can pull out. After that there is a 7/16 bolt inside the agitator that you need to remove then the agitator will pull out. Before you can take the tub out though you have to remove the casing of the machine. You do this by first locating the two screws that hold the control heading down, on some models there are no screws, just two clips under each side that you can use a paint scraper to push in. Either way, once you have the control heading loose, roll it up and backwards. This will expose two brass clips holding the case to the back of the machine. Take this clips off and disconnect the lid switch and the case will slide off. Once the case is off and the agitator is off, you need what they call a spanner wrench to remove the circular ring with notches in it that hold the drum to the transmission. Once the ring is off the tub will slide up and off.

Nov 16, 2010 | Estate TAWX700JQ Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore 110-24642300 Top Loader washing machine about 7 or 8 years old. A few weeks ago it started making a very load knocking sound as the motor turns the drum in the spin cycle. It turns the...


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.24642300&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for these washers:

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

And the following for how to release the console, cabinet and pump, motor, transmission and tub.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=38167c09664cecf006774770a74cf9bc

DON'T BE ALARMED, THE ABOVE ARE REFERENCES AT THIS POINT. YOU CAN FIX IT. (THESE ARE RELATIVELY EASY TO FIX IF YOU TAKE YOUR TIME.)

The first thing to check is how well the tub is attached to the spin tube. Over time, the nut that holds the tub on may have worked loose. The description for how to pull the tub should help.

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench ($20) to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (about $9.00 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

If the tub is firmly attached to the drive tube, the next thing to check is the drive tube itself to make sure that it's not broken. Pull it (following the illustrated instructions and the Service Manual) and check it. Also check the pads / springs for the brake.

NOW FOR THE FUN PART.

If the tub is fine and the drive tube is fine, the problem could be in the gearcase itself. (It's a messy but not difficult job)

There are two plastic cams within the gearcase that lift the agitator shaft out of the way when the washer goes into spin mode. If the cams are worn (they don't have to be broken) they may not lift the shaft high enough (about 1/16") out of the way.

Also see the following for how the transmission works and the whirlpool parts list for the commercial washers (although the consumer models use the same gearcase.)

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Basically whats happening is this.

When the washer goes into spin mode two plastic cams are forced together and raise a gear on the main agitator shaft that is supposed to keep the agitators from spinning. If the cams are worn (not necessarily broken) the gear doesn't lift high enough to completely disengage the agitators. We had the same problem. Ours was a major gear noise but a clicking could also be a symptom. A set of Whirlpool Agitate Cams (part number 62580/01) cost about $15.00.

It's a bit messy to fix (15 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, check the clutch bands and springs before going further. If they are worn, sears and Whirlpool have replacement spring / band kits. If they are fine, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft.

Remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)


Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

I'd also check the Motor Coupler (a $15.00 item that tends to wear) while you have the transmission out.


The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)



Apr 26, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washing machine tub banging against the enclosure!!


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If you look at the section on "Machine Base Parts" you'll see a number of springs and vibration pads.

It's possible that one or more of the pads has come loose or broken.

Also see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load washers. It has a troubleshooting section that describes the reasons for excessive walking or vibration.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


If it's not the springs or pads, you may consider that the "Agitator Cams" in the transmission are not raising the Agitator Gear high enough (about 1/16" ) when the washer goes into spin mode.

See the description of what the Cams do in the Service Manual.

We had the same problem, excessive vibration and noise during the spin cycle.

In order to solve that problem, :

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It sounds a bit complicated but it really isn't too bad and (For a $15 part, saved buying a $170 transmission.)

If it's not the pads or agitate cams, you may have a bent or damaged drive tube.

See the Whirlpool PDF for commercial washers although the consumer models use the same basic parts.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf



Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Mar 02, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Have Sears top loading washing machine that tub seems very badly out of balance in spin cycle, even empty, loaded worse. Machine about 5 years old. All else works well.


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If you look at the section on "Machine Base Parts" you'll see a number of springs and vibration pads.

It's possible that one or more of the springs or pads has come loose or broken.

In order to get to them you have to remove the cabinet.

Here is a description of how to do it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=90fdc122f6335c7c64f46f2ea1b1c887


Also see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load washers. It has a troubleshooting section that describes the reasons for excessive walking or vibration.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


If it's not the springs or pads, you may consider that the "Agitator Cams" in the transmission are not raising the Agitator Gear high enough (about 1/16" ) when the washer goes into spin mode.

See the description of what the Cams do in the Service Manual.

We had the same problem, excessive vibration and noise during the spin cycle.

In order to solve that problem, :

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It sounds a bit complicated but it really isn't too bad and (For a $15 part, saved buying a $170 transmission.)

Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Jan 24, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Quite old admiral mega 22 plus topload washer. the machine did not agitate after filling up. I tried various points on the 3 cycle types and it did not spin either. My son tried moving the agitator and...


Yes sounds like you have now disturbed the seal and will need a new one, remove the agitator and inner drum to get at the seals, to remove the agitator pull off the softner cap and remove bolt form down inside.
To remove the inner drum, the top part of the washer needs to be hinged back to gain access, to do this insert a flat balde 4" from each side at the seam with the front panel to release the clips, lid will now hinge back to give access to the drums, on the outer dum there are clips all the way round to remove the top section of the outer drum release these. remove the bolts under agitator to remove the inner drum. you should have access to the seals but it has been a while.
Reason for not agitating in first place is probably the water level switch at the rear of the drum with a small 8mm hose connecting it to the drum.

Dec 29, 2009 | Admiral AW22 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Trying to get top of cabrio washer to pull tub I have coins between drum and tub. How do you get top disconnected


There are two retention clips along the front located about 4-5 inches from each corner. After you get the top up, you will have to pop off the little cover that will reveal the agitator bolt. After removing the bolt, you can pull the agitator and the entire drum (take off top water flow thing as well). I pulled about $1.96 out of the bottom of mine but also had to pull the drain pump to get change out of it as well. For the person that said his washer made a noise during the spin cycle and thought it was a bearing, I would look for change behind the drum and in the pump first.

Thanks,

Bobby

Nov 20, 2009 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...

1 Answer

Rubbing noise from agitator in top load kenmore washing machine


I can't find your model number on the Sears Parts Site:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

However.

If this is a basic top load, direct drive, Neutral Drain washer, the problem could point to the transmission "Agitate Cams".

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

The agitate cams are used to raise the agitate gear above the connecting rack during the spin cycle.

Following is a Whirlpool parts list for commercial versions of these washers although the consumer model uses the same part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

See part # 62580 (About $15.00)

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

See the following for how to pull the transmission. You don't have to remove the tub!!

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=962131af4fd992034867327e32162166


Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It sounds like a complicated job but it really isn't and certainly less expensive that a $170 transmission.



Nov 15, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washing mashine tub pounds when spinning on kenmore series 70


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the component section on the base of the washer.

There are springs and friction pads designed to keep the inner tub from moving too much when agitating and especially spinning.

One or more of the springs may have come loose or the friction pads may have worn.

Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and service manual for top load direct drive washers with a troubleshooting section.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


Also see the following for how to remove the cabinet in order to gain access to the springs and pads.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the springs and pads are fine, I'd consider looking into the "agitator cam" in the transmission.

If the cam doesn't lift the agitator gear high enough during the spin cycle, (as we had) you would get a major vibration.

See the section in the Whirlpool manual on how the transmission works and the agitator cam.

We had to replace ours and the vibration stopped.

Only if you need to, look at the following.

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)


Oct 19, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I need to replace the cam agit for this sear kenmore washer. is it a serviceable piece and if so, what tools do i need?


Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.
remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (16 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)


Sep 15, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

1 Answer

While in spin cycle agitator spins, but tub does not


Hello, it is the drum shaft collar or what the tub rests on. It is on the top of the shaft. You need to remove the shell, the plastic collar that rests on top of the drum, the agitator, then the nut that holds the drum down, and then pull the drum out, and then you will see the collar. I know it is hard to get to so I would call a pro for this job unless you think you can do it. The part is cheep it is the labor that will cost you. Thank you

Dec 01, 2008 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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