Washer wont' go from washer to rinse cycle

SOURCE: Kenmore front-load washer stops at rinse cycle

When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Good luck!

SOURCE: Roper top load washer Fills, agitates but stops at rinse cycle.

you are welcome

SOURCE: Whirlpool Washer stalls out on rinse cycle

This is likely a lid switch problem. They tend to get weak and work sometimes and sometimes not. When it stalls like that try pushing down on lid and see if it kicks in. If so you need to replace the lid switch

SOURCE: washes...and rinses but wont spin..cant find model

sounds like you have a bad door switch,

SOURCE: I have a Midea 8kg Top Load washer, Model number:

Hi, the E2 error means you are having a problem with the lid swiych. If the washer fills normally, runs through the wash cycle, then stops at the spin cycle and won't drain, then you need to check your lid switch and/or lid strike.


This is the most common cause of the problem you just described. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that will not drain.


The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.