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check for any air leaks and fix as needed. then look for oil coming from cylinder heads , if oil is coming from heads you have blown head gaskets ,it wont build pressure like this. you might also check the pop off valve to be blown open. push the pin in and see if air starts to build up then. If so get a new valve.also check the drain valve under the tank and make sure its closed.
Here are a few things to check, you may have already checked some of these.
*Electricity...Compressors will run best with full 115Vot 15AMP/Or 220V electrical supply from a circuit, over the shortest electrical cord as possible.
*Air Leaks..Place your ear close to the compressor and listen for air leaking, if you hear air that is not normal and means you have to locate and repair whatever it is that is leaking.
*Check the air unloader valve... The air unloader valve will blown out air when you turned off the compressor, that is normal. But it should not have air leaking out of it all of the time. If so then it is faulty and in need of repair/replacement.
*Valves...If either the intake or exaust valves fail, breaks, or fails to seat, then your compressor will run 24 hours a day and never build up to the correct pressure for shut-off.
*Gaskets...Check to see if your gaskets have failed. You could have a gasket failure between the pistons and you will never know it because it shows no external air leak. If this situation happens then the air will only cycle between cylinders and never build up the correct air pressure. One way to check the gasket is remove the air filter, then put your hand over the intake.
If correct then it will **** you hand against the intake. If the valve or valves have failed then you will feel the air sucking in and blowing out.
*Piston Rings and Cylinder...The piston rings could be stuck,broken, or worn and not allowing the correct pressure to build up in your tank. A worn cylinder will also contribute to the problem of pressure build-up.
*Pressure Switch...Check for air leaks at the pressure switch, it has a rubber diaphram that can fail and leak air out of the system.
Please take time to rate me Bud
No there is not a filter. Since the pump is enclosed in the plastic covers there would not be a way to service it. Now if it is not building any pressure then it could be a few things. First would be the drive belt. (item 125) If it breaks then it won't pump at all. Also if the air hose that exits the pump (item 122) gets a hole in it then it won't fill the tank. A worn head valve plate (item 106), blown gasket (item 105), or a worn piston and sleeve (items 109 and 112-2) can also cause this. If the check valve into the tank (item 16) gets stuck open it too will limit how much the compressor will pump BUT usually it will build up some pressure then just keep running without building any higher pressure into the tank.
Here is a parts diagram so you can see where the belt and other parts are located plus it contains all of the part numbers.
It sounds like it is fighting against the head pressure. If so equipped, check the one way valve often used where the air enters the tank. If they get stuck open it causes back pressure. It could also be in the head of the pump. A blown gasket, broken reed valve or other type of valving could also cause this but usually they won't build to full pressure either. Electric compressors often use a small unloader valve mounted to the main pressure switch (on/off box-it would be attached to a small plastic or copper tube) and if bad it too would not allow the head pressure to release in order for it to restart when needed.
All compressors run up to their rated high pressure level, usually listed on the data plate on the compressor or in the manual, then the pressure regulator turns them off. If your compressor is not shutting off it is either not getting to the pressure it takes to get the pressure regulator to turn it off or the pressure regulator is broke and won't turn the motor off. To check which, turn the compressor on and watch the guage that shows tank pressure. If the pressure rises then stops at a level below the rated pressure for your compressor and the motor continues to run, you have a leak somewhere. It could be the tank drain valve, the lines from the pump to the tank, the valve plate or in the piston cylinder area. If the pressure rises more than ten psi above the rating for your tank, your pressure regulator is broke or possibly set too high. If you know how, you can try lowering the shutoff point to see if that fixes it but you're usually better off replacing the regulator.
Your problem can usually be traced to the tank check valve. The valve lets air into the tank then closes when the pump shuts down and the pressure regulator bleeds off the head pressure so the motor can restart when the pressure drops to where the regulator tries to turn the motor back on. If the tank check valve is stuck open the motor has to fight the tank pressure to restart the air pump. If it can't turn over, it will blow the breaker on the motor or the breaker for the outlet you are using. The copper line from the air pump is attached to the tank check valve which is screwed into the side of the tank. Some can be cleaned to work again but most have to be replaced. You'll need C-H part number CV221503AJ or similar check valve.
check fuel pressure, should be 40 psi.
try 2 things
spray starting fluid in air intake to see if it will stay running. It's fue then.
Try turning key to on nd wait 5 seconds for system to build pressure and pump to shut off. Turn key off, wait for relay clcik noise or 10 seconds. then turn key to ON again and wait 5 seconds to build pressure again. Then start engine. If it starts better, you have a bad check valve in the fuel pump or a bad pressure regulator on the fuel rail (unlikely).
Your problem is most likely because of damage to the valve plate or piston & cylinder. If one or both of these are not working properly you'll get partial pressure and the unit won't turn off because the tank never comes up to full pressure. Things to check for are damage to the reeds on the valve plate, they could be bent from overheating or broken from use or wear or damage to the piston seal which can cause damage to the cylinder. If any of these aren't sealing properly the air pressure will come up to a point where the air leaks out faster than it goes into the tank. Without your particular model number I don't know which parts to recommend but if you contact Campbell Hausfeld they'll help you get the right parts.
Bad check valve. But I would check the regulator, by turning it down to about 10 PSI and running it and see if it builds again, if that works then it is the check valve. But from what you are saying I would replace the check valve anyways.
I assume it keeps pumping, but doesn't build any more pressure. That is probably bad valves or rings. If your unit has a crankcase breather, and it is puffing alot of air, look for rings. Otherwise valves.