My amp powers up & evrythings works. It lights up and all the digital display show, but my problem is it not producing any sound. I have it running from HU TO AMP (RCA CABLES). ANY suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, im trying to run 4 subs at a 1ohm stable, but the subs are 2ohm apiece, please help. THANKS 4 YOUR TIME
Ok This is a two channel High Current amp. It is stable to one ohm. If the Subs are single voice coil at two ohms the they have to be wired in Parallel that means (Red +) (Black -) are connected to the + and - of another sub and then the (RED +) (Black -) from both go to one output channel of the amp. You pair the other two in the same fashion on the other output channel. If you are getting no output (sound) at all first check if the amplifier is going into protect. (Usually indicated by a red led on the unit. If it is connect only one Sub to each output and see if the protect LED goes out. If it does then you should have sound at the subs. If not check that you have the sub output enabled on the HU some head units do not come with the sub output enabled on the HU. If every thig is enabled, with only one sub connected to each output and the protect LED is not on then your amp is probably blown and needs repair. Nice thing is that MA has a great warrenty policy.
Check and make sure the protect LED is off. If it is on you probably have the SUBS wired wrong
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Hello. Quick answer...bad sub and amp combo due to fact that your sub needs a lot more power than this amp can produce (I'll explain later). But here is how you can do it: You can wire this dual 4 ohm sub in parallel or series. Parallel wiring would be to wire two the positive terminals on the sub to each other and wire two the negative terminals on the sub to each other. Thus wiring down the sub to 2 ohm. This what the amp would see. Series wiring would be to wire the positive and negative terminals on the same side of the sub to each other. Then wire the positive and negative terminals on the other side to the amp. Thus wiring the sub to 8 ohm. This what the amp would see. Illustrations can be found here: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=1&I=42#results
Your sub specs are 1500 watts rms (how many watts your sub needs to operate efficiently or its minimum requirement. It has the a peak wattage at 3000 watts that it can accept in short duration. Your amp can only produce 300 to 600 watts at 2 or 4 ohm respectively. So you would be greatly under powering the sub which would produce a weak unfulfilled sound. You need an amp that produces a true 1200 to 1800 watts rms. There is a great selection out there.
The red light on amplifier relates to power supply while the green light is indication of sound functionality. An amplifier that allows sound to generate should display both red and green lights. Howeever, some amplifiers would display only green as long as the sound is functioning.
Solving the problem
First, a red light still on means the power connections to the amplifier is fucntional least requirng repairs.
Second, the green ligh should turn on once the stereo were tuned up to produce sound. If the stereo is still on only least produce sound on the amplifier, check on the connection wires between stereo to amplifier that may have disconnected due to woofing or dubbing sound generals with unfirm wiring.
larryagross, Sounds like you blew the speaker! The amp is sensing the voice coil is connecting to the speakers magnet or iron core and is going into a safe mode. It is possible to blow the coil even when the sub has a built in amp.
First make sure that you have the gains properly set ans not all set to their maximums. Second, disconnect signal to the sub then unplug the power for a few minutes. Third, plug the sub into a source of power on a different circuit using a surge protector.
Does the speaker make any popping at the time it powers up? If so you have a amp problem. If there is no sound produced, connect it back the the system using a different signal cable. Does the speaker now pop again when sound is produced. If so the speaker has failed. Contact a Velodyne repair facility.
Sounds like the two subs wired together might be too much of a load on the amp and it is shutting off. Try wiring the two subs in series. That will reduce the load on the amp but will conversely put out less power. Less is better than none though. In any case check your amp to see what the lowest ohm rating it can see, that ohm rating is where you want your subs and if faced with a choice of either going under (lower numerically) or over (higher numerically) GO OVER!-it is much safer.
Here's an article I wrote that can help explain how to wire the subs to the amp.
OHM LOADS, SUB WIRING, OHM RELATED POWER OUTPUT
SERIES SUBWOOFER WIRING
Wire the positive pole from one voice coil (using wire that is as thick or thicker than your wire from amp to sub) to the negative pole of the other voice coil (on the same sub). This will leave you with a positive pole from one voice coil and a negative pole from the other giving you the two leads that will be hooked up to the amplifier or other subs. When wiring in series, the ohms will go up numerically, and the load on the amp will go down. Almost all amplifiers power output will follow this rule, except some amps such as JL Audio's “Ohm matching” D Class amps.
PARALLEL SUBWOOFER WIRING
Wire the positive pole from one voice coil (using wire that is as thick or thicker than your wire from amp to sub) to the positive pole of the other voice coil (on the same sub). Then wire the negative to the negative in the same way. You can then wire to the amp or other subs. When wiring in parallel the ohms will go down numerically, and the load on the amp will go up. Almost all amplifiers power output will follow this rule, except some amps such as JL Audio's “Ohm matching” D Class amps.
MULTIPLE SUBS USING SERIES AND PARALLEL WIRING
In order to match your amplifiers ohm rating you can use parallel and series wiring together, just keep things even for power distribution and to avoid phase issues.
Example: I have two “Type X 12” subs” that have dual 2ohm voice coils and have to match my “Amplifier X” ohm rating of 2ohms mono. In this case, I would wire each subwoofer in series (giving me a 4ohm load), and then wire the two subs in parallel to get my 2ohm mono load. When wiring multiple subs just, treat each sub as a voice coil and wire accordingly.
POWER OUTPUT AND OHM LOADS
For example if “Amplifier X” can make 100watts@8ohms, it would make 200watts@4ohms and 400watts@2ohms. However with every drop in ohms the amplifier is put under more pressure. It starts to create a lot of heat, distortion figures begin to climb, damping rates drop, and some amps even throw power spikes when clipping. SO BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR AMPS RATING AND DO NOT EXCEED IT!
if you are sure its the amp. the problem is internal. but if your not sure, try a different stereo or source of sound to the inputs of the amp. if there is still no sound than it is the amplifier and it could be a number of things.
Try setting your amp to "auto format decode".
It should easily be heard in this mode.
The sub will not show up on the display when in 5.1 mode. (Blue light on)
Use this with music, and use the 5.1 with movies to get a better experience from your amp.
The sub will work in 5.1 but doesn't show up in the display. Try movies with loud sounds.
Most of the pre-set sound fields are of no use to me. I only use normal surround, and AFD and love it. I hope this works for you!