Question about Sewing Machines
Your description isn't very clear. When you say the "bottom stitch is using too much thread" Do you mean you see lots of loopy threads on top of the seam? Or do you mean you see loops on the bottom under the fabric? If your loops on the bottom, that means the top tension is too loose, you've not remembered to put the presser foot down, you have not threaded the top thread properly... Start by rethreading carefully with the presser foot UP. Then do a test stitch, remembering to put the presser foot down. If you still get loops underneath... tighten the tension.
If your loops are on the top of the fabric. loosen the top tension... then do a test seam... and if you still have loops loosen again and repeat. If you start to see loops on the bottom... tighten the tension a bit.
Posted on Dec 30, 2012
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
To wind a bobbin put the cotton reel on the top pin, take the thread to the left and round the little wheel and back to the bobbin that should be on the winder, wind the thread round a few times to take a grip, release the stop motion in the balance wheel, turn the winder button so the winder moves to the balance wheel and press on the foot control slowly.
When you put the bobbin in the bobbin case make sure it turns anti clockwise.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.
Specific detail on bobbin case adjustment (with picture) near halfway down reply, the remainder will help you achieve a balance of top and bottom tensions.
Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......
This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....
It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.
QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.
TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).
IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !
TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.
It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.
If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.
Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.
In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.
I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)
...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....
just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.
Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.
If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....
...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.
Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.
Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.
You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !
Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.
Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)
FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks
Posted on Sep 06, 2009
SOURCE: singer 404 sewing machine
I would first make sure the thread tension is adjusted properly. if this does not fix your issue, check the point on the shuttle hook and make sure it is not broken off. it should come to a needle sharp point. if the tip is broken off it may not pick up the thread from the needle properly. then double check the timing and the needle shaft depth. first, make sure your needle is fully seated and tightened down. the groove in the needle should face forward. there are two timing marks on the needle shaft. at maximum depth you should see both lines and the top line should be right at the bottom of the needle shaft bushing. then as the shaft goes back up, when the bottom line is at the bottom of the bushing the point of the shuttle hook should be right behind the needle and centered in the indentation on the back of the needle. you may need to make minor adjustments on the needle shaft depth depending on what brand and type of needles you are using.
Posted on Jul 07, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 14, 2014 | Singer Futura Xl-400 All-In-One Sewing And...
Jul 04, 2012 | Singer 8280 Mechanical Sewing Machine
Apr 13, 2012 | Singer Sewing Machines
Jan 30, 2012 | Singer Confidence 7463 Computerized Sewing...
Sep 10, 2011 | Singer Sewing Machines
Sep 04, 2011 | Singer 4423 Sewing Machine
Jul 29, 2011 | Singer Inspiration 4210 Mechanical Sewing...
Jun 04, 2011 | Singer Curvy 8770 Electronic Sewing...
Mar 22, 2011 | SINGER 7470 Sewing Machine
Mar 15, 2009 | Singer 3116 Simple
246 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!