Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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Washer will not power on

Washed a load but next load would not power on. checked outlet and circuit breaker, ok.

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 537 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 60 series washer

No power Check to see whether power is getting to the washing machine. Is it plugged in? Has a fuse blown or is a circuit breaker tripped?

Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, your washer can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washer to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

Some machines have a special lid-switch fuse near the lid switch, inside the control panel. If this fuse blows, the unit won't fill with water until you replace the fuse.

Posted on Dec 07, 2007

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: KENMORE Elite HE 3T

no but there is a control bd it is probably gone

Posted on Jul 31, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Kenmore Elite front loader has no power.

the power is on but the start button does not start the machine

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore Washer Model 110.24872300 filled the

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.24872300

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.


Posted on Feb 01, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore HE2 plus fron load washer will not turn on

It appears your lid switch/door latch has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question!!!!

Posted on Sep 16, 2010

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1 Answer

Why ge washer not spin or agitate?


Check to see if any power to that outlet to see if you have some power by plugging in a light or other electrical device. No power? check circuit breaker for Washer electrical outlet. If it pops back, you have a short somewhere. Unplug washer then try circuit breaker again. If the circuit breaker stays on, you have a problem in the Washer. Call Service man or may be cheaper to find a lightly used replacement, or buy new.

Aug 31, 2014 | GE WBSR3140DW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Electricity went out in 1 circuit while using my table saw w/washer going. I replaced the breaker & have 240 volts comming out of it but no electricity to receptacles or switches, So I replaced all...


In workshop areas, the NEC specifies GFCI (ground fault circuit interruptor) outlets.
If you replaced any GFCI outlets, there could be 2 possible problems:
(1) modern GFCI outlets will pass zero voltage if wired backwards (i.e. a load/feed reversal).
check the load/feed wiring of all GFCI outlets, to make sure its correct.
The feed side of the GFCI outlet is wired directly to the breaker, and the load side feeds power
to the remainder (the downstream side) of the circuit (therefore protecting the entire downstream
side of the circuit).
(2) older GFCI outlets could need to be reset if wired correctly - check the reset button(s) just to
make sure that they (and any downstream outlets) are receiving voltage.
Assuming that no GFCI outlets were part of the replacement process (or that your GFCI outlets
are correctly wired), your check for the presence of 240 VAC
should begin at the outlet/switch closest to the 240VAC double pole breaker, and proceed from there (looking for that 240VAC at each device with your 2-prong tester) along to the end
of the circuit until the problem is identified.
What this implies is that you have created (or will create) a schematic or circuit diagram of the
circuit involved - including switches, wires, and outlets (240V and 120V) - and then use that as a
resource to trace the possible sources of the problem from the breaker to the problem.
Here's the question I would want you to answer as you create your circuit diagram:
How did a 240V table saw get on the same circuit as a 120V washer and/or 120V switch(es)?
It seems like during the process of circuit tracing/diagram creation, you may find
that you're dealing with parts of more than 1 circuit, rather than just one. Check the breaker box
for any breakers that are in the "Tripped" position - and diagram those circuit(s) too.
What I would suspect is a wiring problem/mistake with the 1st device (switch or outlet) that is
supposed to feed power to the rest of the circuit, but fails to pass power on to the remainder of the circuit - or that that first device is actually wired to a second circuit with a tripped breaker.

Another thing to check is that your shop may be on its own sub-panel, with the table saw
on a 240VAC circuit, and the washer on its own 120VAC circuit. In this case, the
total curent draw may have tripped the MAIN breaker to this sub-panel in the MAIN breaker
panel (i.e. none of the breakers in the sub-panel were tripped, but the main breaker feeding the
ENTIRE sub-panel tripped, and this (double pole) breaker is located in the MAIN breaker panel).
In this case, the fix would be to reset the double pole breaker in the main panel that feeds the
shop sub-panel, bringing all the sub-panel circuits on line.

The last thing to suspect/check for is a fault in the wire itself, which is the most difficult problem to
diagnose. The fix to a bad wire would be re-fishing a new wire from the breaker box to the 1st
device box - no electrical inspector will require the removal of old wires from walls - so long as they
are not live.
What would make your life alot easier, and what helps electricians diagnose these problems so
quickly, is an electrical field tester (a.k.a. "chirper" tester), which would allow you to check
the wire as it leaves the breaker box to the point where the electrical field disappears.
At the point (point in the wire/outlet/switch) where the chirper stops chirping, you've found your
fault. At Home Depot/Lowe's/electrical supply store, a electrical field tester will set you back
about $8 to $20, depending on whether you opt for one that just lights an LED, or one that
lights and LED and also chirps.

Sep 04, 2011 | Electric Drill Scaler

1 Answer

The socket next to my washer was used to put in an extension cord to fix my deck with a power saw. The socket is still out, but the breaker works for then lights there.


Usually the washer circuit is a seperate 20A circuit. The lights would be on a different circuit usually 15A. Check your panel and see if there is a 20 breaker tripped. Hopefully your panel is labeled (or it should be) Are you saying this tripped while using the extension cord? Another possibility is that it is controlled by a GFCI outlet. You can connect additional receptacles to a GFCI outlet to protect them. Check to see if you have a GFCI receptacle tripped (in garage, bathrrom etc)

Sep 11, 2010 | Gb Electrical 1 30 Amp Ground Fault...

1 Answer

Washer will not restart


There is a main control board on top which may need to be replaced,
if you remove the back top panel there is a tech sheet with a lot of information tucked in there, Suggest you plug something else into outlet to make sure outlet has power, and breaker is still ok,
good luck

May 27, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Power light doens't go o


Plug a working lamp in the washer power outlet. If it lights, the problem is within the washer (look for a breaker button on the back of the machine). If the lamp doesn't work either, look for a bad breaker, a loose neutral wire connection, or loose wire connection on the breaker. Check the wiring on the washer end as well.

Oct 18, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

5 Answers

Washer stopped mid-cycle, water in the bottom of the tub. Circuit breaker popped due to over-load. Reset breaker and it immediately popped again. Could this be cause by a jam in the grinder assembly?


My dishwasher just quit mid cycle. (still has water in it) It is a whirlpool partner 1. I checked the breaker and it wasn't tripped... but i reset it anyways. When I tried the dishwasher again it worked for a second and turned off. I have done reading about the thermo fuse but can't find it. Not sure how big of a problem this is.
Dishwasher is 5 years old.

Thanks,
Dale

Jul 02, 2009 | Whirlpool GU2400XTP Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

My Kenmore Elite front loader has no power.


the power is on but the start button does not start the machine

Jun 29, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Power to the outlet, but apparently no power at the touch pad - it is non responsive with no indicator lights on.


1. No power to the washer
Make sure there's power getting to the washer. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for power. Sometimes the power cord disconnects at the washer, if this is the case, the wiring must be repaired or replaced.

2. Lid switch
The washing machine may not function if the lid switch is defective. The switch is usually located near the door. Replace if found defective.

If all the above checks out OK, replace the touch pad.

May 30, 2009 | Kenmore 2205x Top Load Washer

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