Have new power supply have tested with meter puting out 14.4 volt's have took apart and checked power port nice tightly solder ac/plug in very firmly just wondering could battery be bad would cause this?
Yes a bad battery could cause this, or a bad battery control circuit. If it works with the battery out then it's one of these two issues. If it's the control circuit, there's not much you can do, I'm afraid, but the only way to be sure is to get a new battery (or borrow one for the same model).
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Hi Denny, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor. Good luck
The power supply is not ment to be taken apart, if you know someone with a digital meter they can test the dc volts coming out of the plug, and if faulty! go to www.ebay.com Type: make and model of laptop and refine search to power supply.
You need to check the charging system. To do this you need to fully charge the battery and you'll need a good Digital Volt Ohm Meter. Using the meter's function selector switch, set it to DC VOLTS with a range of 20 volts or greater. Connect the red meter lead to the positive battery post and the black meter lead to the negative battery post. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. After about a minute or so, your meter should read between 14.5 and 15.0 volts. Any lower than 14 volts, your battery will not be charged.
If you don't have the minimum voltage at the battery in the previous test, you need to check the alternator to see if it's generating sufficient voltage. You'll have to follow the wires from your voltage regulator going to the lower left front of your engine until you come to a plug. Unplug the plug and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts in the rubber plug. This is where you are going to test the voltage from your alternator. Since you'll be testing AC voltage, it makes no difference which meter lead goes into which contact, just one lead into each contact. Set your meter's function selector switch to AC VOLTS with a 50 volt or greater range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Insert one meter lead into each of the metal contacts. Do not let the leads touch each other or the engine case or ground. Your meter should read at least 30 volts.
If you do not have the 30 volts from the alternator, your stator is bad and must be replaced. If you have 30 volts or more but not the 14 volt minimum at the battery, your voltage regulator is probably bad. Make sure you voltage regulator is properly grounded. Check the condition of the wire coming from the regulator going to the battery. This wire is usually larger in diameter than the other two going to the alternator. Good Luck Steve
Find the Regulator & unplug. Connect a AC volt meter to the 3 white wires at the connector that is unplugged from the reg. connecting the 2 red & black meter leads to ANY 2 white wires at the plug (colors don't matter with AC. Run the bike & rev up. You should have starting at about 30 volts ac Up to about 90 volts ac reved if the Stator is good. Now move the 2 meter leads to 2 more white connections & check again. Now you have one more pair of white connections to check. Should have the same 90 volts on any of the 3 pairs of whites (3 phases). If they are low, The startor inside the cover is burnt--Replace it. If good, Then the Regulator/Rectifier Unit that rectifies ac to dc & then regulates the output at 14 ~ 14.5 volts DC on the red & ground (Green or black or housing ground) to go to the battery is the only other part that is for charging. You can't test a regulator other than to see if you have 90 v AC going into it & the plugged in it should be showing 14 Volts DC at the battery terminals , Not just 12 volts. Make shure you have a fully charged GOOD battery before tests or the readings will all be off.
Unlikely as even with the power switch off the power led would show current from the AC adaptor was reaching the laptop. Try testing the AC adaptor first by plugging a volt meter into the DC jack, with one probe set to the inside of the jack and the other to the outside, set at 20 volts and see if you get a reading.
If the power is reaching the DC jack, then check the connection at the jack port for tightness and make sure the jack is a good fit
Try removing the battrey and using it on AC power alone, sometimes a failing battery will cause problems
If this fails, it is possible that the internal fuse on the motherboard has gone
Had same thing happen on my New Holland 1630. Took the buss bar off the glow plugs and pulled them out and tested with test leads on the battery. They glowed. Put a volt/ohm meter on the buss bar and turned the key to glow position, no 12 volts present. Checked for blown fuse, nothing blown. Looked at relays. There was a glow plug lamp timer next to the start relay. Wiggled wires going to timer while asking for glow with key. Saw the glow lamp flicker. Took timer out and opened it up. Found a broken solder joint on circuit board resulting in a loose capacitor. Soldered the crack and put back on tractor. That was it! Glow plugs work now.
the switching power supplies are fun, by 2 pin plug is that from the AC side or computer side?
from AC side its easy enought to go buy another plug thought it should have come with one.
i cant remember any 2 pin plugs on the computer side and i have taken quite a few of these apart. there is a four pin plug...
yellow 12 volt
red 5 volt,
if the old supply was any of those colors you can desolder from the old supply and re solder it onto the new supply. if it was another color then i would suspect a random signal wire or cutout, keep you from frying yourself with the case open... try plugging up the new supply and turning on the computer if it runs why worry about it?
It's hard to do with a volt meter. What you would be better off doing is either ordering a cheap power supply tester online, and test yourself with that, or take out the power supply and take it to your local pc repair shop and ask them to check it for you. There are 12V outputs, 5V outputs and 3.5V outputs, and any of them could be bad, so that is why I say using a voltmeter is harder than using an actual power supply tester. Let me know if this solves your problem.
is it pluged in
is power bar turnt on
can you check the power supply conector for power
you have to shunt the green wire to a black wire to force the supply on
then use a volt meter to check red wire for +5 or +121 volts
dont remember witch is witch yellow and red +5 and +12
if the power supply is getting getting power from the outlet but not into the pc replace with a new one best of luck bye bye