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Model 3272 thermostat does not work

Hello, I have a model # 3272 thermostat section, Max. Rating 22 amp. 125,250 vac. 18 amp. 277 vac. and it is a baseboard heater. It has quit working. I have checked everything and it is the thermostat. Where can i get a new one? Thank You

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Honeywell T86A3006 24V Class 2 Round thermostat 8020

The honeywell tradeline thermostat would work as a direct replacement (no mercury in the new ones), however if your using just heaters and no cooling system off of it, you could Heat only thermostat from honeywell that would replace your unit as well. Both at available at Ace Hardware with the heat only unity being roughly 7 dollars cheaper.

Posted on Jan 23, 2008

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SOURCE: marley md26 line voltage thermostat

The Black Wires from the md26 are your load(the heater) and the red lines are your line(power). The lines are also paired up on the thermostat with a red and black on the left and are red and black on the right. In the actual heater connect the black to the black wire and the white to the white and connect the grounds. In the thermostat connect the black from the heater to left side black( remember there are pairs left(black, red) right (black, red) and the white to the right side black connect the black from your power to the left side red and the white from your power to the right side red. Should be ready to go.

Posted on Nov 19, 2008

  • 92 Answers

SOURCE: dimplex baseboard heater wiring

no does not matter but you must have a ground leg

Posted on Feb 24, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: Properly installed electric baseboard heater won't work.

I am an electrician. You must measure the voltage across the black and red wires. Measuring each wire to the neutral will not cut it. If both your red and black wire are on the same phase the heater will not work.

To double check your wiring, measure the voltage across the two screws feeding your subpanel, they should be 240v or 208v depending on your power company. Then do the same at the breaker feeding your thermostat. Again it should read 240v.

If you have no potential across the screws it is possible that you installed an incorrect breaker. Not all breakers with two screws on them are 240v breakers. There is what is called a twin or split breaker that has two screws that are on the same phase. These are for wiring two 110v circuits, when you run out of spaces in the panel.

Double check everything. This is a relatively easy circuit to wire, even for homeowners. If the heater does not work them something is wrong so do not leave the circuit energized.

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

  • 1015 Answers

SOURCE: want to replace analog Honeywell thermostat with digital

Your system uses 24 volts and that thermostat should work. You should only have a two wire system and that should work using the RH and W connection on the thermostat. My personal opinion about that thermostat...I don't like it. It will timeout for 15 minutes after furnace does not fire up. I deal with this thermostat all the time because that is what they install in the new homes. I always have to pull it off the wall, remove the batteries and wait for it to completely drain power becuase it does not have a reset switch. Very irritating...Might be too complicated for your application.

Posted on Oct 17, 2009

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This thermostat is a DPST (Double Pole Single Throw) type meaning it will switch BOTH pairs of wires either ON or OFF. It is a type used primarily for 220 - 240 volt circuits and can switch up to 22 amps of load current. Most heaters will provide a wattage rating and some also provide a current rating as well. Since most electric heat circuits are connected to a 2 pole 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker (or fuses) via #12 copper wires it should work well. If connected to a circuit greater than 20 amps - as long as the heaters connected to the circuit do not draw more than 22 amps will also work fine.

If all is well so far, the continue. The thermostat should have 4 wires. Two of one color, two of another (black and red are common colors). One color group will be the LINE (powered) side, and the other group is the LOAD (heater) side. You should verify WHICH color group is which for best results. The switch will open and close a connection between the LINE wires and the LOAD wires.

The thermostat should be installed in an electrical switch box located on an interior wall at about 5 feet high and not above any heater or heat source. Do not locate it behind a door that swings open, etc. The box should be supplied by a circuit from the electrical panel that will connect to the LINE side color group wires *and* a circuit that will extend from the thermostat's LOAD color group wires to the heater's wire connections / terminals.

If running common #12/2 (for a 20 amp circuit breaker) or #14/2 (for a 15 amp circuit breaker) romex cable from the panel will have the Black and White wires connected to the thermostat's LINE wires and the Black and White wires in the #12/2 or #14/2 romex cable from the heater will be connected to the thermostat's LOAD wires. The ground wires will connect to each other AND a short length of the same size wire should be run from this same point to each: the ground terminal screw of the thermostat and (if using a metal electrical box) to the electrical switch box with a separately purchased green ground screw designed specifically for this purpose. Plastic boxes are not grounded.

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http://waterheatertimer.org/images/EH-010-timer-wiring2.jpg
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