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Anonymous Posted on Dec 29, 2012

Tension for free motion quilting

Lily 545 settings for free motion quilting. I can not get the bottom tension right

4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 02, 2008

SOURCE: Free motion quilting Viking Designer 1

I had the same dissatisfaction when I switched from the 1+ to the Designer 1. After some trials I am now happy. You need the springy free motion foot. Part #413 03 76-45. You take off the white shank and screw it on with the metal bar over the needle hook. In the set menu turn the SensorQ on, the free motion on, select stitch 1 from menu V and drop the feed dogs. It also makes a big difference to use the straight stitch throat plate which just has a small hole for the needle to go through. One other hint is that I often have to reduce my needle tension 3 or 4 steps. Hope it works for you.

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Anonymous

  • 87 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 19, 2009

SOURCE: Viking Lily - free motion quilting - thread loops on underside.

I need more info.
>Where is your presser fooot pressure set(1-9) it should be around 4?
>How fast are you free motioning (faster is better? from 1-10 10 being full speed.
>Is your bobbin threaded correctly (I need to cover the basics.)?
>Never never use a needle smaller than a 90/14 for free motion (I know everyone's an expert...but trust me)
After all this, it's OK to tighten your tension up on top a little when free motioning and getting eyelashes/spider webs on bottom. around 6 should do it though.

Anonymous

  • 152 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 08, 2009

SOURCE: Tension and missed stitches

It sounds like one of your clearances in the machine is off. When a machine skips stitches like yours is doing, it does so because the hook responsible for "catching" the thread from the needle is not close enough to the needle so it misses the loop of thread from the needle. If your machine was having a timing problem it wouldn't sew well on any fabric. A clearance problem shows up on certain fabrics at certain times. A few things you could do to try to compensate it would be to use a slightly larger needle and turn your top tension dial down to a lower setting. Move the machine a little slower on the frame or increase the speed of the machine. Either way a trip to your technician will be needed. Make sure you tell him to check the needle to hook clearance.

RichSew

Douglas Plant

  • 222 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 14, 2010

SOURCE: I have a Viva Limited edition-need help with free motion foot

Try running the machine at a faster speed, teh most common error new quilters maake is moving the fabric too fast and the machine too slow.

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1answer

PC8500 tension issues w/ free motion quilting. Either tensions too weak/strong, or gathering up fabric. Moved cone feeder, re-threaded & reloaded bobbin over & over.

The PC8500 does not do free motion well because of its tension design, it is not you.It was one of he earlier machines to set tension by the thickness of the fabric. If you really want to do free motion then it is time for a different machine.
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I am making a quilt on Husqvarna Lily 530 and cannot get my upper/lower thread equal for outlining design in quilt..book doesnot help me....any suggestions for stitch setting

Tension for stitching a quilt sandwich is tricky. It helps if you use the same color for top and bobbin thread,. If your quilting thread is not the same weight (either heavier or lighter) than thread used for regular sewing, then the bobbin tension may need to be adjusted. My quilting thread is lighter weight so I have a separate bobbin case whos tension has been adjusted specifically for quilting. The goal is have both threads meet in the middle of the sandwich. If the top thread is showing under the sandwich, you probably need to tighten the top tension so it will pull the bobbin thread up into the sandwich. Do the reverse if the bobbin thread shows on top.

It may also make a difference by changing the type and size needle. I tend to prefer a top-stitch needle. An embroidery or microtex may also work for you.

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How to Free motion quilting on Janome 1600P QC

Be sure to use a darning foot (or free motion quilting foot).
Use a brand new sharp needle, ie top stitch, embroidery, or microtex work well.
Check that the thread, needle, and fabric are compatible--Caution, the needle eye should be the right size for the thread weight.
AVOID old or bargain bin thread!
Be sure to drop or cover the feed dogs.
If your machine has it, use the needle down feature.
You may need to adjust the tension for FMQ--I have to tighten the bobbin tension a little to keep the bobbin thread below the quilt surface (so I bought a special bobbin case and set the tension for FMQ and that's all I use it for.)

Lots of web sites that talk about how to free motion quilt. Then, it's PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE! I use a portable white board and draw free motion designs on it (while watching TV, etc.). The idea is to get it fluid without jerking, jumping, speeding up or slowing down, etc. When your hand and brain are able to work smoothly, then you can probably do free motion quilting. Practice on scraps of fabric and batting (preferably the same kind you will be working on). Cut up some 14 inch squares of fabric and batting and draw designs on them and see if you can stitch them. Some advice: don't watch the needle...look at where you are going in front of the needle. Don't expect perfection to happen overnight. Many quilters have been FMQing for years and still make mistakes. (I've made a few quilts and my stuff still looks less than professional, but it's all mine!)

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Janome 1600P DBX

You need to drop the feed dogs, install a darning or free motion quilting foot (make sure the presser foot is lowered). Because you will not be using the machine to move the fabric, the stitch length selection is of no importance. Make sure the stitch width is set to zero. You should test FMQ on a scrap quilt sandwich of the same makeup of your project, ie quilt fabric with batting sandwiched between. The upper tension should be set so that both threads meet in the middle of the quilt sandwich. Because it is FMQ, some extra adjustment may be needed.

Once the tension is where you want it, you can practice FMQ until you can move it smoothly in conjunction with the machine speed.

Practicing on a white board with erasable markers is a handy way to learn to move smoothly. The most difficult part of free motion quilting is learning to move the fabric smoothly. Do NOT lack for practice as that is the only way to improve. Those people who make it look simple have been doing it for years!

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Thread tension when free motion quilting

do you have this problem when doing regular sewing? if you do then the tension dial may be going bad & would have to be replaced
7helpful
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Just bought a brand new Pfaff Quilt Expression 4.0 and the top thread keeps getting shredded and breaking while doing free motion quilting. I've checked threading diagrams, changed to four different...

this is a known issue with the pfaff.....i have just bought the machine and it has thread uptake issues...thread tension issues and it comes unthreaded by itself often...leaving globs of thread on the bottom stuck in the feed dogs and under the throat plate.....then the stitches are not properly balanced because the tension gets too loose on the bobbin thread....very disappointed to find out it is a known issue with all the viking husqvarna made machines...which are pfaff, janome and viking.....sux.
0helpful
1answer

Tension and missed stitches

It sounds like one of your clearances in the machine is off. When a machine skips stitches like yours is doing, it does so because the hook responsible for "catching" the thread from the needle is not close enough to the needle so it misses the loop of thread from the needle. If your machine was having a timing problem it wouldn't sew well on any fabric. A clearance problem shows up on certain fabrics at certain times. A few things you could do to try to compensate it would be to use a slightly larger needle and turn your top tension dial down to a lower setting. Move the machine a little slower on the frame or increase the speed of the machine. Either way a trip to your technician will be needed. Make sure you tell him to check the needle to hook clearance.
4helpful
1answer

Viking Lily - free motion quilting - thread loops on underside.

I need more info.
>Where is your presser fooot pressure set(1-9) it should be around 4?
>How fast are you free motioning (faster is better? from 1-10 10 being full speed.
>Is your bobbin threaded correctly (I need to cover the basics.)?
>Never never use a needle smaller than a 90/14 for free motion (I know everyone's an expert...but trust me)
After all this, it's OK to tighten your tension up on top a little when free motioning and getting eyelashes/spider webs on bottom. around 6 should do it though.
0helpful
1answer

Machine model 19233

On my machine I find that my bottom and top free motion stitches are more uniform when I set my needle thread tension at 8 or 9. This is inaddition to what you are already doing. Also, you might want to use a top stitch needle.

Good luck,
SewReady
7helpful
2answers

Free motion quilting Viking Designer 1

I had the same dissatisfaction when I switched from the 1+ to the Designer 1. After some trials I am now happy. You need the springy free motion foot. Part #413 03 76-45. You take off the white shank and screw it on with the metal bar over the needle hook. In the set menu turn the SensorQ on, the free motion on, select stitch 1 from menu V and drop the feed dogs. It also makes a big difference to use the straight stitch throat plate which just has a small hole for the needle to go through. One other hint is that I often have to reduce my needle tension 3 or 4 steps. Hope it works for you.
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