Question about Microwave Ovens

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I have an Amana microwave Model RRL-10C. The magnetron modulation SCR has delaminated from the foot mount and shorted in the closed position due to thermal failure(thank goodness the nuke still works but the defrost and powermatic on/off levels do not work). Is there a schematic diagram available for this machine including the control model that would list the part number for the SCR. I 'm not sure if the SCR has cascaded and taken out the predriver as well, A detailed schematic would solve all my problems. These machines are very simple, a simple part number would be great. Thank You

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  • mebaskin Jan 18, 2009

    Hello



    Thank you for responding. The triac appears to resemble your photo top row second from left. It has three solder ring leads. Appears to look like a classical TO3 case inverted (two drill through mounting holes in the oval heatsink base)

    A part number on top (what I can determine) looks like #M SAC358 or 359?

    If the opto has lost it's smoke,could I substitute an external solid state relay in place of the triac and peal off the DC/AC modulation trigger prior to the opto? I'v got a bunch of surplus SSR's in the basement just longing to to their job.

    A schematic of the PCB would make things very simple>



    Thanks Again

    Mark





  • mebaskin Jan 18, 2009

    Thanks for all your help. The part number for the triac looks great.

    I know I could go out and buy something new,but these old nukes just have something appealing about them.



    Mark

  • mebaskin Jan 18, 2009

    Thanks Again

    Mark

  • William Miller
    William Miller May 11, 2010

    Actually, it's not an SCR, but a triac, which is essentially two SCRs mounted in an opposite parallel configuration.



    What part numbers are on the case of the triac?



    Are its leads soldered on ring terminals or are they slip-on "Fast-On" type connectors?



    I can probably suggest a cross / generic replacement part.



    Can you post a photo, too?



    Just be aware that a resistor or optocoupler in the control circuit may also have blown too. That's not uncommon.



    It may look like one of these - if so, which?









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  • Microwave Ovens Master
  • 9,042 Answers

I wouldn't suggest trying to modify the triac control circuit.

Without a schematic I couldn't begin to advise you on how to do that or to value or the parts that might be bad.

And I truly doubt that the schematic can be found.

I would kind of expect the opto to be bad, and maybe a resistor or two.

They would need to be replaced with the right values and an acceptable opto.

You may get lucky and find that the opto and resistors are all okay.

You can find the triac here. Looks like the GLC16-50 or GLC16-50S would work for you.

That's about all the help anyone can provide you, honestly.

Good luck and be careful!

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jan 18, 2009

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You're describing a common smell that goes along with a magnetron tube that has failed. The magnetron tube makes the microwaves, and will eventually fail if you keep a microwave long enough. They can fail in a couple of different ways, and one is to short out accompanied by that burning smell. It's probably not worth trying to repair your oven because of its age. I don't believe the magnetron is available any longer. If it is, it will be costly, and replacing the tube is best left to a professional because of safety concerns. Your most economical choice would be to replace the oven.

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The magnetron may have either failed or is not being supplied with the extremely high voltage required to run it.
Make sure the !!!!capacitor is discharged!!!!! before attempting any sort of repair.
Check the diode with either an AVO model 8 on high resistance range for short circuit, the feed fuse on the primary of the high voltage transformer and then finally, the magnetron is best checked by substitution.
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If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

An overheating magnetron can be due to:
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  • wrong magnetron installed in oven
  • an old or otherwise failing magnetron
  • cracked magnetron magnet
  • improper power line voltage (US homes should be 110-125VAC)
  • foods low in moisture (popcorn & bacon, e.g. - add 1/2 cup of water in rear oven)
  • failed or inoperable cooling fan or hood vent exhaust fan
  • deteriorating foam weatherstripping seals in air ducts or on outside cover
  • blocked air vents (dust, animal nest debris, insufficient free air space behind & around oven, etc.)
  • clogged or greasy charcoal filter or grease filter
  • blocked duct in hood vent exhaust
I would suspect a failure or the fan, clogged filter or bad magnetron.

You didn't mention your brand or model number, so I'm limited to general advice.
You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites.We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com
Microwave Oven Control Panel Repair Nationwide

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The first thing I would suggest is a hard reset. Unplug the unit for a minute or so. Then plug it back in, set the clock and try again.

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Be sure to have both numbers handy.

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Good luck.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order the bulb by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open. Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

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If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

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If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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