Re: MYT APOLLO 6000N WILL NOT TAKE A CHARGE ANY LONGER
I have the same problem. I did take the amplifier apart and found that the battery is down in side and requires taking componets out to get to it. As of yet I am not sure that the battery is the problem. I have not been able to find a wiring diagram to check it out. I have recently bought a second PA 6000 to which I can use to trace voltages. It is possibly that the power board has a part that quits working.
So if there is any one with a solution I too would like to hear about it. Thanks
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Gel cell batteries usually are good for 3 to 5 years and from your description, it sounds like the battery is not recharging properly. They will indicate a full charge but in reality, do not have the stored power to operate the device. Check for replacement batteries at your local burgular alarm shop or buy online BUT make sure to match the voltage and AH (amp hours) ratings.
I know this is an old post. I put this here for others with the same issue as I have worked on these before. Call Samson and ask for the schematics - they will email them to you if you ask nicely.
As for issues I have seen with these:
The protect relay on many of these is notoriously cheap (Alesis used the same brand and also had difficulties). This is worth checking straight away if your power supply seems good. It is a DPDT12v on the control side and rated at 5 amps (the relay will say 10, but it's 5 amps on each pole).
I also had an issue with the PCB being bent within the enclosure as it fits very tightly in a plastic shroud, and then into the wooden enclosure. This caused some of the solder joints to come loose on two of the power transistors. So, if you see that the PCB is bent a bit, check all those solder joints.
I would suspect that the internal battery may need replacing as it cannot produce enough output to sustain the system at high power.
There is a lot of support available on this website (including video of how to replace the battery)
Your capsule is gone, sorry. I've owned 2 NT2s that I bought over 5 years ago. Eventually the capsule goes and that was what happened to mine: "started working-got quiet-unwanted noise" The first time it happened Rode replaced my capsule for a $50 flat rate repair fee (capsules are $300..what a great co.) However I recently contacted them about the second one and they no longer have replacement parts. They did offer to give me a discount on a new mic if I sent the broken NT2 to them for parts. It's too bad...I love those mics.
Your capsule is gone, sorry. I've owned 2 NT2s that I bought over 5
years ago. Eventually the capsule goes and that was what happened to
mine: "started working-got quiet-unwanted noise"
The first time it happened Rode replaced my capsule for a $50 flat rate repair fee (capsules are $300..what a great co.)
However I recently contacted them about the second one and they no longer have replacement parts.
They did offer to give me a discount on a new mic if I sent the broken NT2 to them for parts.
It's too bad...I love those mics.
Your power switch may be damaged.
If the power button was pressed too forcefully, the switch on the circuit board in the handle of the 87A may have sustained damage. If the button no longer "clicks" when you depress it, that may well be the problem.
First, the battery is a Lenmar PBA50 found on ebay.
Second, place the amplifer onyour lap with the battery cover off and tap it on your leg, the battery should slide out the back.
Third. I have 2 of these amplifiers and both would not charge or play on battery. The problem is the metal spring contacts the make contact on the battery, they get out of shape and fail. I bent them around until I was able to make the work, but do not like that solution. Beside the left in of the battery is a small "pocket" if you will. I opened up the amplifier (BECAREFUL the handle come loose and there are nylon washers on each side total of 4 that will do what ever they can to escape.) With the amp opened I located the 2 wires going to the metal battery contacts and cut them off and removed the contacts. I then drilled a hole into the small "pocket" and routed the wires down thru the hole. I remove the battery and carefully soldered a wire on each battery contact. I then put a et of connectors on the wire end making sure I kept the polarities correct and plugged the into each other. I now have very good battry connection and all works well.
I'm assuming that no sound applies to both the clean and ultra modes. You didn't say which tubes you replaced but I'm guessing the input tube was not replaced. Did you keep the old tubes?
When "no sound comes out", do you hear any kind of a low level hum on the speaker output?
I think the front end tube is open or the switch logic switch is defective.
Hope this helps.