Question about VinoTemp VT24-G 24 Bottle Wine Cooler

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VT12TEDS display black, clicking sound in back panel, tic, tic, with a blinking light diode, but no fuse seen, nothing moving, maybe at times the fan blades want to move but do not, they spin freely by hand, plug and unplug/ playing with front display temp controls makes no difference. Lost User Manual. Is there a way to reset something? Power outages in Hawaii are common, and power surges and brown outs also common. Guido.

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  • sgorders Feb 15, 2009

    Yep....exact same problem. You described it well.

  • wolverine95 Apr 19, 2009

    Exactly the same issue. No solutions? 

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My VT-12TEDi stopped working after about six months; the common ticking sound from the controller board. After a little research, I found the 16V 1000uF 16mmx10mm capacitor (silver and black can) on the board (upper left corner) was bad. Visual indications are the typical "popped" top of the capacitor can. I purchased a quality replacement capacitor for less than $1 and replaced it. It was a very easy soldiering job that most people with a pencil iron could do. The unit works great now and I don't expect it to go out again anytime soon.

Posted on Mar 17, 2011

  • Jojo_Johnson Jun 22, 2011

    Just fixed a broken VT-12TED using this - pulled out the control board in the back, located the bulging capacitor (1000uF 16v) in the upper left corner, desoldered it using some solder wick, plopped in a much beefier replacement (1000mfd 50v), soldered, reassembled, and it's working great now. Total cost - about $3. Total time - about 15 minutes plus the trip to Frys to get the part.

  • EELBOY Aug 11, 2011

    Jojo you get a huge gold star!! Went to Radio Shack and bought a new capacitor for $1.97. Had it installed and everything buttoned back up in 15 minutes. Plugged it in and everthing works!!
    Thank you, thank you , thank you!!!

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Your control panel is bad. The best way to fix this model is to go to ebay and get a replacement. If you order the board from the factory, you have to soldier wires. If you order the setup off ebay, you do not have to soldier anything and it is just a swap out. cost about $49. Good luck

Posted on Mar 15, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

The unit is completely dead. no lights and no fan. Both fuses on the board are good.


If it is dead, and doing nothing at all, have you checked to make sure its not a power failure to the unit? Sounds to me that may be a problem if all is dead. You probably checked this first, but make sure. I repair wine coolers, walk-in boxes on a day to day basis, and if you have no lights or fan, and nothing at all is coming on, it is either a power failure coming in or the power cord its self has come loose to the control section. That's all it could be, you have lost power. Check for power at the board if you have power to the outlet. The reason I believe you have no power to the unit is you say the light and the fan are off, and nothing is working. Please check and let me know.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, & Refrigeration Contractor

Jun 07, 2011 | Cuisinart CWC-1200 Wine Cooler

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Haier wine cellar HVTS18DABB top zone won't cool.


Maybe not the answer for everyone, but I proved it was the fan by removing the back panel, removing the fan and finger guard, then placing a small desktop fan that was the same size as the top-rear fan on the wine fridge. Pumping air directly over the heat sink allowed the unit to attain the temperature set on the front panel. The old fan would either not turn at all, or too slowly to be effective. These fans are junk. Especially after finding articles such as this out in different forums for the same issue. I have the HVTS18DABB model unit and the replacement fan is a simple 120mm square, 25mm deep 12V DC fan. Similar or the same as you see in computer chassis. Found some inexpensive, high CFM, low noise fans from the following site:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com
Specific fan for my application was the model SY1225SL12SH. Although I did order a second fan that is similar in case the .5amps was too high and I popped a fuse. These fans are inexpensive folks, as long as you aren't afraid to get your hands dirty. Good luck.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sc12slsy110c.html
Here are the details on my order:
Name Code Qty Each Options
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Yate Loon 120x25mm D12SH-12 1 5.99
D12SH-12 High Speed -
Black (88 CFM, 40 dBA)
Scythe 120x25mm SY1225SL12SH 1 7.95 Add Black Sleeving = No
SlipStream SY1225SL12SH -
110 CFM
Subtotal 13.94
Shipping 7.02
Tax 0.00

May 04, 2010 | Haier BC112G Wine Cooler

3 Answers

NEED FAN FOR MODEL HVTS18DABB


Maybe not the answer for everyone, but I proved it was the fan by removing the back panel, removing the fan and finger guard, then placing a small desktop fan that was the same size as the top-rear fan on the wine fridge. Pumping air directly over the heat sink allowed the unit to attain the temperature set on the front panel. The old fan would either not turn at all, or too slowly to be affective. These fans are junk. Especially after finding articles such as this out in different forums for the same issue. I have the HVTS18DABB model unit and the replacement fan is a simple 120mm square, 25mm deep 12V DC fan. Similar or the same as you see in computer chassis. Found some inexpensive, high CFM, low noise fans from the following site:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com
Specific fan for my application was the model SY1225SL12SH. Although I did order a second fan that is similar in case the .5amps was too high and I popped a fuse. These fans are inexpensive folks, as long as you aren't afraid to get your hands dirty. Good luck.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sc12slsy110c.html
Here are the details on my order:
Name Code Qty Each Options
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yate Loon 120x25mm D12SH-12 1 5.99
D12SH-12 High Speed -
Black (88 CFM, 40 dBA)
Scythe 120x25mm SY1225SL12SH 1 7.95 Add Black Sleeving = No
SlipStream SY1225SL12SH -
110 CFM
Subtotal 13.94
Shipping 7.02
Tax 0.00

Jul 18, 2009 | Haier BC112G Wine Cooler

1 Answer

The temperature icon does not light up so you can read the numbers. I can't set it on the correct temperature. It keeps gong back to 70.


when you are setting the temp the display shows the set value .. but when you release the buttons for a few seconds the display reverts back to the actual temp inside .. so if you set it at 55 deg F .. after a second or so it will jump back to 70 or whatever it happens to be at that time inside the cabnet .. eventually it should go down to your set point (several hours) .. but mine didnt .. it stayed at the room temp forever .. the fan was running but the solid state cooling device actually had no power (requires about 4 amps at 12 volts).... the problem was a blown fuse in the power supply inside the cabnet .. make sure the unit is not plugged in if you are going to take the back off the machine ... in my case all that was needed was to replace the primary side fuse (about 2 or 3 amps i think) there wasnt but there could have been other problems as well .. the power supply is what they call an "off line switcher" when it is plugged in it has dangerous voltage and current levels .. so again dont plug it in unless it is assembled in a safe manor ..
the same power supply might power the "back light" for your display ..

Jul 13, 2009 | Oster 12-Bottle Wine Cellar - Black

2 Answers

Don't cool-no refund/satisfaction from Oster.


Ok, fist problem was unit quit working..if it quit cooling yet lights still worked inside and still had power readings on door is not power coord. If the unit stoped cooling is probably fuse and there are two of them in back of unit. One fuse clearly can be seen, the other is coated with a black shrink fit coating and is not well seen. This second fuse is the problem, you will need to replace it. I have same unit and this is what I had to do to get it cooling again.

Jan 21, 2009 | Oster 12-Bottle Wine Cellar - Black

1 Answer

Wine cooler temperture


blown fuse in back panel, there are two of them, one you can see, one is in black shrink rap, this is probably problem fuse. It was on my unit and had to cut away the shrink rap and solder in new fuse. Found the problem fuse in top left of panel in back of unit, hope this helps.

Jan 19, 2009 | Oster 12-Bottle Wine Cellar - Black

2 Answers

Fan doesn't work on oster wine cellar


First question, do you have power to the unit and the cooling fan is not working? If this is the problem then sounds like one of the two fuses in back panel has burnt out.

Dec 30, 2008 | Oster 12-Bottle Wine Cellar - Black

1 Answer

The fan does not go on


Ther are two fuses in back panel of unit. One fuse can be seen other is hidden top left of panel and is coated in black shrink rap. I had to replace that fuse to correct the problem. Problem is I had to cut away shrink rap and resolder another fuse, you may have to have someone who can do this look at your uint. Hope this helps.

Dec 19, 2008 | Oster 12-Bottle Wine Cellar - Black

2 Answers

Magic Chef MCWC8DSCT Wine Cooler


I had the same problem. I fixed the problem by replacing the main cooling fan that is mounted over the electrothermal cooling unit.. Fan can be ordered from RepairClinic.com.

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28 Answers

Fans not working


I had the same problem as other bloggers--temp would not decrease and fan did not run. . . as suggested by others, I replaced the 5A heat-shrink wrapped fuse in upper left corner of circuit board (fuse is covered in black heat shrink wrap and is in a U-shape). I unsoldered the two ends of the fuse on the circuit board (be sure you locate the correct two holes) and then replaced it with two parts from Radio Shack--a 5x20mm Inline Fuse Holder rated at 250V AC, 5A (part # 270-1238) and used a 6.3A slow-blow 250V fuse (part # 270-1066). Now the wine Refir works great!

To replace the part take all the screws off the sheet metal covering on the back of the refrigerator. Remove the circuit board from the plastic holder. I left all the wires plugged in and just unsoldered the fuse with the circuit board still connected--but to solder you will need an extra pair of hands to hold the board while you solder.

If you don't have it, get some silver solder while at Radio Shack and a thin, needle-point soldering iron tip. Radio shack has 30W soldering irons for less than $10. You really don't need soldering experience--just a steady hand. Even if you have none of these parts your total outlay at RadioShack is less than $25 for everything.

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