Unti is out of warranty and from the manual lists part no. 1.423-954.0
Immediately when plugged in to power and after the ''RESET'' on GFCI is pressed the motor turns on. This is regardless of the power switch being ''OFF'' or ''ON'' on the side of the unit OR regardless if the gun trigger is being pulled. When the power switch is ''ON'' and trigger is pulled, the pressure from the nozzle is less than 50% of normal.
I remember the unit wouldn't make a noise until the switch was turned to ON. And only then, it would run a very quick pressurizing cycle and then shut off until the trigger was pressed.
I found a 90850340 K-Switch from an online parts store but not sure if this is the cause of the issue or not. I have completely taken off the housing and taken a look into the electrical housing box but I'm at a loss for what the crux of the issue is. Please help!
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The manual for your sprayer list several possible causes of the motor not starting, but does not indicate the presence of a reset switch. It has Thermal Overload but is reset by simply letting the motor cool.
From the manua: lProblem
The unit will not run.
The unit is not plugged in.
The pressure is set too low (pressure
control knob set at minimum setting does
not supply power to unit).
Faulty or loose wiring.
Excessive motor temperature.
ON/OFF switch is defective
Normally, the oil light indicates low oil pressure, usually due to lowe oil level. That being said, is you have a constant oil light with the engine running and you are not getting clacking noises from the valves, you may have a defective oil sender. Regardless, it is not worth destroying the engine to find out. You should immediately shut the engine and check the oil level. If it is very low, add oil and retest. If the fault persists, attach a mechanical oil pressure gauge to the engine. If the pressure is normal (usually 30-45 psi), then change the oil pressure sensor. If the oil pressure is less that 20 psi, you should investigate the oil sump and pump for problems.
Sounds like the pump seals are bad. The manual says to only use these a few minutes at a time, most people try to clean the patio etc with them, run them too long, and burn out the pump seals - don't ask me how I know this.
You can take the cover off the switch and turn the small nut counterclockwise to lower your high setting, as turning the large one, will change both high and low settings, and this may take care of your problem for now. If you have a indoor pump, the pump may be worn and having a hard time getting up to pressure, or a foot valve plugging up, or small hole in the pipe going into well.
This is the manual for your de-humidifier. It lists the part number for the power and fan control switch and it states they have a 5 year warranty. http://www.hunter-humidifiers.com/manuals/34357.pdf This is their link for support: http://www.hunterair.com/suppo.95rt They have a msrp on the unit at 84.95. What I wuld do is definately check into the warranty ting with them and I'm sure you could probably salvage one ot of the two units. Replacement parts may not be cost effective. You can test the motor from #1 in #2 and, if it runs, you know it has to be a switch or a start capacitor, etc. I guess it all depends on how much tinkering you want to do. I would think there is a good chance there is a wiring diagram for the motor somewhere inside the case or on the motor. Good luck. Dave
If the tank is full (pressurized): Nothing will happen when the switch is turned on. Bleed some air from the tank to see if the motor turns on when the pressure drops.
If the tank is empty or low on pressure: First check the circuit breaker to the outlet the compressor is plugged into. Next, somewhere on the compressor, usually on the motor, there is a circuit breaker. They are usually a small round white or black button that if tripped will stick out about 1/4 inch or more. Push that back in and check to see if your motor runs. The usual reason for these circuit breakers to pop is because the compressor is being run on an extension cord. Rule of thumb for compressors: run longer air lines, NEVER use extension cords. If it is absolutely necessary to run an extension cord it should be 10-guage and no longer than 25 feet.
I had the same very exact problem and got my hands on the service manual for the Rinnai 1001 series heater to solve it. As fas as the spark gap it should be 3mm but I went through a lot of tests of the components and found that Solenoid 1 coil was open. It should read about 1.3K and mine was completely open. Solenoid 1 is the one against the back cover. You'll need a small inspection mirror to see it but it is part number C23B-23. REMOVE POWER/UNPLUG FROM THE WALL FIRST then pull the plugs off all of them and check the resistance of the coils, they all should be about 1.2-1.3K. If you havent already found the answer I hope this helps.
Also check the pressure switch, bottom right side in the front. Its a disk, diaphram type device about 4 inches in diameter with a microswitch on it. That switch should close, zero to 1 volts across it, once the combustion fan starts up and builds a little pressure. If it doesnt it could be the switch or the intake or exhaust parts of the flue or filters are clogged.
there are several factor on cycling failure, most common on it is the pressure switch device,checking on this,plug out or switch off main circuit breaker for compressor, disconnect pressure switch if this is a single phase connection,there are two supply wire coming in and two wire coming out on pressure switch.direct connection of compressor motor on power supply to test if it is cycling manually,after direct connection of motor compressor to power supply w/out pressure switch,switch on for 5 to 10 minutes o build a low [pressure then swict off again,then switch on again even there is a low pressure observe if there is cycling motor running if this done replace pressure switch.if still have same problem motor tripping another case not to cycle bring this to electric motor service center.have a nice day dont forget to fix my rate.