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Bake element for oven Dacor ECP 52305 - Dacor Ovens

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: Faulty bake or broil element

You will need a T20 screwdriver (star shaped) to remove the back plate on the electric oven

Posted on Dec 29, 2006

  • 262 Answers

SOURCE: Bake element in smaller oven replacement

I always unplug oven or turn off power make sure though it will bite ya and hard after turning power off if you do it at the breaker turn stove top on make sure it don come on remember its 220volts and it hurts open oven door remove all racks.Then remove the screws mounting element to oven pull gently towards you (you may have to lift the front up a little) pull old element out until you see the spade connector (plug ins with the wires attached) remove these should be two of them be careful not to let wires go back into the cabinet put new element in hook wires back up to wires push back into the hole and put screws in turn power back on and test. this can also be done by taking the back off also and doing the same thing in the oven.hope this helps ya
good luck

Posted on Dec 08, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: mabe oven

Hi, well i have researched the mabe oven problem and it turns out that mabe used to make a 110V oven bake element for the ovens made in Mexico. However it appears that they no longer make that model oven and it's parts. Isn't that just golly gee terriffic!I am still searching for an element for it as GE who is also a share holder about 42% worth also has parts that sometimes will fit the Mabe made in Mexico, and not to be left out of the programe Camco is also part of the GE Mabe family so they are also a source to check with, and yes even whirlpool who is nothing to do with any of those other than a competitor sometimes has parts that will fit the Mabe made in Mexico. I'm not saying it will be a perfect fit but if it works, it works, but i'm not recomending you do it to a customers appliance at least not without asking if it's ok.

Posted on Feb 20, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Bake element does not heat

After removing the racks, rack rails and the back plate I removed the 2 screws the hold the bake element. Lifting the front of the bake element up and carefully pulling the element out and gently moving the element so the connector clear the hole I was able to disconnect the wire. After testing for continuity with an ohm meter (non found) I determined the element need to be replaced. $37 and 45 minutes total.

Posted on May 29, 2008

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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