Question about General Electric Stove/Oven/Range Chrome Timer Knob Set - WB3X459

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Replacing oven burner element, the lower element, for a GE stove

I have removed the two screws that are inside at the back of the oven, in order just to determine how to remove the old oven burner element. I was able to remove the two screws that secured the plate to which the burner element went into. Yet, the old burner element did not come loose and it was not evident how it was attached to the back of the oven. So, I pulled at it a bit, and this did reveal some wires leading into the old burner element. I pulled the burner a little more, and this resulted in a big spark and then the entire oven went electrically dead (since even the oven clock went off). I realized that I had made a veru stupid error in not first turning off the electric current to the stove before even trying to determine how the burner element was secured to the oven. Luckily, I didn't receive any electric shock.(I think it is 50 watts or volts??). I then went to my circuit breaker box, and I found that the one circuit breaker that is exclusively devoted to the stove had been triggered. Hopefully, the stove was not damaged by my screw up.
I still want to install the replacement oven burner element that I have purchase directly from GE.
How do I do this? How do I remove the two wires from the old oven burner element and reattach these wire to the new replacement oven burner element?.

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  • General Elec... Master
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(I think it is 50 watts or volts??)
Most electric ranges are supplied with 220 volts - this is, especially at 60 Hz, deadly. You were lucky this time.
If the wires are not welded onto the element contacts, they might be so-called 'quick-disconnects' that pull straight off of blades that are part of the elelment.  
You probably haven't hurt the range with the momentary short circuit since the chassis of the range is connected to neutral or ground so you just gave your breaker a workout. BTW, I have had to replace late breakers after they tripped. They wouldn't stay reset any more even after the problem was removed from the circuit. Don't be surprised if yours doesn't stay reset; it may not be a fault causing it. 

Posted on Jan 18, 2009

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Ok,... First, and foremost, stop using the self clean. It takes the temperature up to 900 deg F, and creates all sorts of other problems with the lock motor and the walls and the bake/broil elements. Use a Low odor Easy-off spray cleaner to clean your oven from now-on, please.

Now, the bake element needs to be replaced. If you have the model number (found on the body of the Range behind the lower drawer, if you pull it out) I can look-up the manufacturer's suggested part to be replaced. You may also need to replace the broil element, but that usually is the last element to burn-out as most people don't use the broil function of an oven.

You will have to pull the range away from the wall, and unplug it before you attempt to replace any parts. No need to have 240 VAC/30 Amps running through your body. There are several black 1/4" screws that secure the back panel on the oven section to the body (about 6 to 8) and they will have to be removed to pull and replace the wires on the oven bake and/or broil elements. You will also have to go to the oven door (on the front of the range) open it, and remove the two 1/4" screws that secure each element to the body before you can change-out the element(s). The most popular bake elements for GE Ovens are part #WB44K10005 and/or WB44T10010, but there are other Bake elements. Will need the model of your Range to ID the correct element and the cost.

Now as for the rest of the burners on the stovetop not working, they are usually independent from the oven functions, which are wired into the controller in the center of the range control console, but there are a couple of GE models that wired the stove burners into the oven timer/controller. If this is the case, then you may also need to replace the oven timer/controller.

If the stove elements are independent and are only wired to the Infinite switches that control the front left, rear left, front right, rear right burners, than the problem is either with the actual radiant heat burner elements or the infinite switches that independently control each burner. I would still need a model number for the Range to help you more with this.

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I believe my oven igniter is bad in my GE Profile XL44 Stove. How do I go about replacing it myself?


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Replace heating element in RB790 ge hotpoint. How remove glasstop to reach element


We had the same problem with ours. This is likely caused by one of two things: The element could be bad, or the element controller could be bad. I hope this helps...

1. Get a screwdriver and multimeter.

2. Slide out the stove and unplug it.

3. Open the oven door and look along the front edge up under the cooking deck. You will see several screws. Remove them.

4. Pry up the top cooking deck, the deck is hinged on the back side of the stove.

5. Lift up the front end of deck and get something to prop it up with.

6. The heating elements are are mounted to sheet metal strips, which are attached to the bottom of the cooking deck with screws.

7. Plug the stove back in and set the bad element to high heat.
NOTE: THE EXPOSED WIRING UNDER THE DECK COULD BE ENERGIZED TO 220V, ENOUGH TO KILL IF TOUCHED! USE EXTREME CAUTION. NO CHILDREN, PETS OR CURIOUS ONLOOKERS NEED TO BE AROUND WHILE DOING THIS. ALSO, YOU DO NOT NEED TO BE DOING THIS IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.

8. Take the multimeter probes and check the voltage going to the element. If the voltage is 220V, then the element is bad. If no voltage or very low voltage, then the controller is bad.

9. Unplug the stove.

10. If the controller is bad, then remove back cover from control panel. Remove controller and replace it.

11. If burner is bad, unplug burner and remove it...you will need to remove sheet metal strip that the burners are mounted on from deck before removing burner from the strip. NOTE: The burners are delicate, be careful.

11.a Mark the metal mounting strip where the burner tabs attach to it with a marker before removing burner because there are several locations on the strip where different burner sizes could be mounted.

12. The replacement burner is expensive. After careful inspection, I found the burner to be bad on ours, and the cause was a broken weld between the burner element foil where it is tack welded to the wire tab at the side of the burner. Looking at the quality of the welds, I would not be surprised if this is a common problem. One could take a piece of steel, say a paper clip or similar, and use a pair of needle nose pliers and fashion a small clip using the needle nose pliers to compress the break in the element foil back together. Otherwise, replace the element. I opted to repair the element and save the money.

13. Reinstall the element and plug the element in. Note, the element can be installed in several locations on the sheet metal mounting strip. Make sure to install back in the original locations that you marked with a marker. Carefully reinstall the mounting strip to the deck. Screw deck back down.

14. Plug stove back in.

15. Cook

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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We had the same problem with ours. This is likely caused by one of two things: The element could be bad, or the element controller could be bad. I hope this helps...

1. Get a screwdriver and multimeter.

2. Slide out the stove and unplug it.

3. Open the oven door and look along the front edge up under the cooking deck. You will see several screws. Remove them.

4. Pry up the top cooking deck, the deck is hinged on the back side of the stove.

5. Lift up the front end of deck and get something to prop it up with.

6. The heating elements are are mounted to sheet metal strips, which are attached to the bottom of the cooking deck with screws.

7. Plug the stove back in and set the bad element to high heat.
NOTE: THE EXPOSED WIRING UNDER THE DECK COULD BE ENERGIZED TO 220V, ENOUGH TO KILL IF TOUCHED! USE EXTREME CAUTION. NO CHILDREN, PETS OR CURIOUS ONLOOKERS NEED TO BE AROUND WHILE DOING THIS. ALSO, YOU DO NOT NEED TO BE DOING THIS IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.

8. Take the multimeter probes and check the voltage going to the element. If the voltage is 220V, then the element is bad. If no voltage or very low voltage, then the controller is bad.

9. Unplug the stove.

10. If the controller is bad, then remove back cover from control panel. Remove controller and replace it.

11. If burner is bad, unplug burner and remove it...you will need to remove sheet metal strip that the burners are mounted on from deck before removing burner from the strip. NOTE: The burners are delicate, be careful.

11.a Mark the metal mounting strip where the burner tabs attach to it with a marker before removing burner because there are several locations on the strip where different burner sizes could be mounted.

12. The replacement burner is expensive. After careful inspection, I found the burner to be bad on ours, and the cause was a broken weld between the burner element foil where it is tack welded to the wire tab at the side of the burner. Looking at the quality of the welds, I would not be surprised if this is a common problem. One could take a piece of steel, say a paper clip or similar, and use a pair of needle nose pliers and fashion a small clip using the needle nose pliers to compress the break in the element foil back together. Otherwise, replace the element. I opted to repair the element and save the money.

13. Reinstall the element and plug the element in. Note, the element can be installed in several locations on the sheet metal mounting strip. Make sure to install back in the original locations that you marked with a marker. Carefully reinstall the mounting strip to the deck. Screw deck back down.

14. Plug stove back in.

15. Cook

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You don't have to look for a certain resistence on the element, just continuity. If you have a digital meter it should beep when you check across the terminals. You can check for voltage also, 240 volts constant, it doesn't change with temp.

You can turn power off to stove, remove element, turn power back on, and do these checks, but it is safer to pull the stove out, remove the back and check from there. There will be 120v at element even when it is off unless control has double line relay, don't take the chance.

Let me know what you find.

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