The motor has gone out - is there a way to fix it myself? Or, how do I find a replacement for the top portion of this blender?
The motor hit and missed for a few days - then died. I'm having a really hard time finding information for a 300watt, 120volt blender (usable in the USA). I've called Braun to inquire about repair - $25 for them to look at it (which will be applied to the repair if they're able to do it)(I'd have to mail it to them in San Francisco). I have the bottom of the blender, as well as the attachment for a small food processor. Is it feasible to repair this blender? If not, where else can I look for a (top) replacement?
Thank you for your help.
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Sure you could fix it!
If she( wife ) only pulled the power cord, you could just open the bottom part of your blender and reinstall the wires.
Just make sure that no expose wire touches another wire!
Hope that helps you out.
Thanks for asking FixYa!
you are using your KitchenAid blender and it stops blending, you may think there is a problem with the motor in your machine. However, a common reason for the blades not rotating in the blender is a dirty or faulty coupler. The coupler is what connects your blender dispenser to the motor, and you can easily replace the coupler at any time by only using a screwdriver. Things You'll Need
Turn the blender dispenser clockwise and lift up to remove it. Set the blender dispenser aside.
Insert a flat-blade screwdriver between the black drive coupler and the frame of the blender on the top center portion of the blender.
Lift the screwdriver upward, and the coupler will start to bend out of place. Slightly turn the coupler and then lift up on the screwdriver again.
Continue to move the coupler slightly and lift the screwdriver until the coupler is completely removed.
Insert the new coupler over the blender's motor blade and then twist the coupler counter-clockwise until it is tightly fastened.
Pretty much that is what happened to me. I found that the motor has 2 "thermal cut-offs" (SEFUSE 113oC). If the motor heats up even a little, these babies kill your blender. They are thermal fuses. Once they blow, it is over until they are replaced. To fix this, the motor must be removed. The spline gismo on top of the blender unscrews with reversed threads. I suggest unsoldering the lead wires from the power supply board, and replacing when done. The cut-offs are inside the taped on white cloth insulation on the top of the field magnets near the brush assemblies on both sides. I replaced them (both were blown) with 2 of NTE8242 ($1.60 each, 240oC 15A). These are way too hot, but that is what I had on hand. I thought that the electronics were defective at first, and I replaced the entire board assembly with a small/cheap ceiling fan wall switch /speed controller from the hardware store (600W 5A) for $10. The root cause of all of this is that the motor fan is not working. The airflow is blocked by base. I put small extenders on the feet and now there is much more airflow. Only time will tell if this is an effective fix. It appears to me that the device my have started out "nice" when it was designed, but cheapened (probably by middle managers taking bonuses for "improving" the design) many times. The fuse is gone, the case is plastic, etc. It really makes me wonder how it got past UL approval.
Try bonding the sheared portions with Araldite. Once it is set try slowly to unscrew.
OR if you can make a little nich in the embeded portion so that tip of screw driver can fix it. Then it should be easy to unscrew the sheared portion.
Otherwise no other alternative but to replace the attachment.
Is the black plastic part, seal, and glass portion snugly fitted together? If so, it's likely that the black plastic part isn't making contact with the pin. On mine I have to turn it about a quarter turn to lock it to the motor/ drive pin.
If I have a hard object such as ice cubes too firmed placed in the blender against the blade and the glass, I shake the container to loosen the materials and reseat it onto the drive pin as mentioned above.
Like you, I am all for repairing and keeping the world free of blenders that only need one part replaced. The rubber coupling was easily ordered online, the challenge I later found was to remove it without losing my sanity. After messing up the side grill of the blender pretty good, I realized there is an opening on the motor casing that allows access to a "gear" that is firmly attached to the axle where our little friend will hopefully screw on and restore the contraption to a working state. In order for you to see (which I must warn you, it's not much of a view) through the grill you will need a flashlight or book light. Towards the top of the aforementioned gear (not the rubber part) there is a groove in which a flat screwdriver can easily fit immobilizing the axle and allowing you to easily unscrew it. Oh, but wait, I forgot this is the faulty part and it will spin without the slightest torque on the axle thus never loosening or getting it unscrewed. My solution to this problem was to surgically remove as much rubber as possible to allow me to attach my vise grip to the nut and finally put this thing out of its misery. Using the same procedure of inserting the screwdriver to immobilize the axle I was able to screw the new part and voila the blender is fixed!!!!
Do the lights come on but the motor won't come on? I had the same issue with my Cuisinart blender.
The problem is very often a thermal fuse. It protects the motor by opening the circuit if there is too much current or if the motor is overheating. If indeed this is the issue with yours, the device is less than $2 each is sold at Radio Shack but finding someone to replace it for you might be hard. On my motor there were two thermal fuses taped onto each stator winding. It took about 1-1/2 hours of work to remove and rework because of the unusual location.
Another part that often blows is the triac that controls the motor. This is around $4 but again, it's finding someone who can replace it with the correct replacement.