Question about Refrigerators
There is alot of things to look at first listen for compreser if its running then there is a fan next to it make sure its running if its not you can put a box fan on condenser and compresor and if it starts cooling again u know the fan is the problem this is the most common thing ive seen.
Posted on Dec 30, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
more than likely the compressor is not starting, it has a starting device on the left side of the compressor which has a relay/overload called a relay, remove the relay and shake it , if it rattles it has gone bad. the relay/overload combination has gone bad and can be replaced with pro41 relay. if the compressor has a run capacitor just eliminate the capacitor when replacing with new relay. connection of the two wires makes no difference.
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...
Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.
After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.
There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?
If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
SOURCE: freezer cold, fridge warm
Hi, You have a self defrosting problem.
Remove the rear inside freezer panel and check continuity on the defrost element and bi-metal switch.The bi-metal has to be tested cold. If there is continuity on both parts, you will need to change the defrost timer.
The most common part that goes bad is the element. I hope this helps you. Please leet me know if I can assist you further.
Posted on May 28, 2009
Sounds like a main control board problem keeping the freezer fan from working . If no air flow to the top of the freezer , the icemaker will stop working and the ice will begin to melt ( leaking from freezer ) . The coils will start to freeze up due to no air flow across them . If continued for a period of time , the cold air could return thru the return vent located in the bottom of the ref/freezer section and freeze the water tank in the refrig section , causing the no water thru dispensor .
Posted on Jul 11, 2009
Find the return air It can't come in if it can't get out. also if you were checking it with the freezer door open you will not feel the air. Just in case i have done that myself. if all air ducts are open and it's getting o I should be 20 in fresh food with the control on 9.
Posted on Sep 22, 2009
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