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New screen needed suggest new tv

Posted on Dec 30, 2012

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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What kind of electrical cord does hct flat screen tv uses?


Well, if the power cord isn't hard wired to the TV, then the two most likely options are either a figure 8 cord or an IEC cord.

Here's a figure 8 at monoprice
3ft 18AWG Figure 8 Shape AC Power Cord Cable Polarized 7 1 15P Black...

Here's the IEC cord at monoprice 10ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable 3 Conductor PC Power Connector Socket C13 5...

Sep 07, 2014 | Televison & Video

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General electric model number 2 9290a


Well, if the power cord isn't hard wired to the TV, then the two most likely options are either a figure 8 cord or an IEC cord.

Here's a figure 8 at monoprice
3ft 18AWG Figure 8 Shape AC Power Cord Cable Polarized 7 1 15P Black...

Here's the IEC cord at monoprice 10ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable 3 Conductor PC Power Connector Socket C13 5...

Sep 08, 2014 | Televison & Video

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Shift cable replacement


Most front wheel drive cars nowadays use a series of cables to actuate the transmission gear changes. Because the transmission in front wheel drive cars is mounted transversely rather than longitudinally, it is difficult to come up with an actual mechanical linkage from the gearshift lever to the transmission. Having a cable operated system allows much more flexibility. NOTE: this arraignment is also used in some mid-engine cars, such as the Porsche Boxster.

This system typically works very well, although there is a weak spot in the design. On the MINI, the spherical end joints at the transmission end are held by a rubber mount that can wear out and eventually tear away from the cable. In our case, the rubber surrounding the spherical end on the cable had worn away almost to this point. If it had separated, it could render the gearshift useless. Replacing the cables is well within the reach of the do-it-yourselfer, however you do need to gain access to the underside of the car.

Begin by removing the air filter assembly (See our article on installing a performance intake system for more info). Underneath the lower airbox are the attachment points for the shift cables on the transmission (See Figure 2). Pry off the ball ends of the transmission with a screwdriver. If your cable ends are still good, I would recommend using a forked tool to apply equal pressure to each side of the rubber joint (See Figure 3). Once the ends are disconnected, squeeze the metal clips holding the cable ends into the black plastic holder and pry each cable end out (See Figure 4).

Now jack the car up and place it on jack stands. Refer to our article on jacking up your car for more info. Under the car, you will see the exhaust running down the center of the car. Above the exhaust are a set of heat shields that line the inside of the tunnel. We will need to access the shifter housing which sits right above the center tunnel heat shield. You will need to remove the 10mm body nuts that secure the heat shield to the tunnel (See Figures 5, 6, 7 and 8). There are a total of 8 nuts as well as a small 8mm bolt that secures the center tunnel heat shield at the front of the car (See Figure 9). Now remove the oxygen sensor wiring from the two clips holding it to the heat shield. You don't need to actually remove the oxygen sensor, just the loom going to it (See Figure 10).

The center exhaust pipe is supported near the rear of the center tunnel by two rubber mounts bolted to a bracket. You will need to remove this bracket. There are 6 10mm bolts that secure the bracket to the car and 2 10mm bolts that secure the mounts to the bracket. Remove all of these bolts and rotate the bracket downward to free the exhaust mounts (See Figures 11, 12 and 13).

Next, remove the two 15mm nuts securing the rear exhaust to the catalytic converter. Exhaust bolts tend to rust and/or corrode, so you may need to soak them in penetrant oil prior to removing (See Figure 14). Now separate the exhaust joint. There is a flexible exhaust section just in front of the catalytic converter that allows enough movement to work the joint free. It's also a good idea to support the rear section of the exhaust with a jack or jack stands (See Figure 15).

Now, remove the heat shield above the exhaust and slide it out over the exhaust as shown by the green arrow. It will take a bit of work to free the shield up. Don't be afraid to bend the shield as needed to remove it (See Figure 16). You will now be able to see the two tabs holding the shift cable to the body directly above the catalytic converter. Pry the two rubber grommets holding the cables out of the tabs (See Figure 17).

Follow the cables back to the shifter housing. Now pry the plastic cover off the bottom exposing the cables inside. Pop the cable ends off the ball joints. For the cable on the side, you can use a 14mm open end wrench in between the cable end and the ball joint to pry it off to the side (See Figure 18). The other cable end is a bit harder to remove because of the rotation of the shift lever and also as it's difficult to find a fulcrum point to pry it off. You can grab the cable end with some channel locks and give it a good tug downward to yank it off. Once both cable ends are free, use the channel locks to pull the two cable retaining clips down and off and pull the cables out of the shift housing and free of the car (See Figure 19 and Figure 20 ). Be sure to remove the small o-rings on the end of the old cables, and slide them onto the new cables.

Now feed the new shift cables through the holes in the shifter housing, (taking care that the small o-rings around the cable retainers seat properly) Refit the cable retainer clips and pop the cable ends onto the new shift lever ball joints and re-fit the shift housing cover. work the other end of the cables up under the subframe to the plastic retainer on the transmission. Clearance will be tight in this area. Now, mount the plastic cable ends into the slots on the side of the retainer until they lock into position (See Figure 21). Now route the rubber grommets on the new cables into the tabs on the body above the catalytic converter. At this point, refit the heat shield and bolt the exhaust back together using a new gasket.

From the top of the car, inside the engine compartment, pop the new cable ends onto the ball joints on the transmission. Now get in the car and work the gearshift, checking that each throw operates smoothly. pic01.jpg
Figure 1Shown here are a set of new shift cables for the MINI Cooper S. Over time, the rubber that surrounds the spherical ends of the cable can wear or even tear loose, rendering the shifter inoperable.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic02.jpg
Figure 2Remove the air filter assembly to access the upper shift cable connection to the transmission.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic03.jpg
Figure 3Use two screwdrivers to pry the spherical ball joints off the connection points at the linkage. BMW specifies the use of a two armed tool to apply equal pressure to either side of the ball joint. With care, the screwdriver method will work. You can also use a an open end wrench to pry the ball joint off.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic04.jpg
Figure 4Once the cable ends are removed, squeeze the metal clips that hold each cable into the plastic retainer and pry them out (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic05.jpg
Figure 5Jack the car up, place it on jack stands and remove the 10mm body nuts that secure the heat shield to the center tunnel. Remove the nuts shown here on the driver's front side (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic06.jpg
Figure 6Shown here are the body nuts to be removed on the passenger front side. (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic07.jpg
Figure 7Moving down the center of the car, remove the body nuts in the middle (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic08.jpg
Figure 8Keep moving towards the rear of the car and remove the body nuts towards the rear of the shield.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic09.jpg
Figure 9Don't forget to remove the small 8mm screw securing the front of the heat shield right above the catalytic converter.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic10.jpg
Figure 10Remove the oxygen sensor wiring from the two clips holding it to the heat shield (green arrow).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic11.jpg
Figure 11Remove the six 10mm bolts holding the exhaust mount bracket to the body (green arrows) as well as the two 10mm bolts securing the exhaust mounts to the bracket (yellow arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic12.jpg
Figure 12Once you rotate the bracket down, you can see how the exhaust mounts hook inside at one end. (green arrows). Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic13.jpg
Figure 13Rotate the bracket down further and move the exhaust mounts to release them from them. Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic14.jpg
Figure 14Next, remove the two 15mm nuts securing the rear exhaust to the catalytic converter. Exhaust bolts tend to rust and/or corrode, so you may need to soak them in penetrant oil prior to removing. Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic15.jpg
Figure 15Now separate the exhaust joint. There is a flexible exhaust section just in front of the catalytic converter that allows enough movement to work the joint free. It's also a good idea to support the rear section of the exhaust with a jack or jack stands.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic16.jpg
Figure 16Now, remove the heat shield above the exhaust and slide it out over the exhaust as shown by the green arrow. It will take a bit of work to free the shield up. Don't be afraid to bend the shield as needed to remove it. Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic17.jpg
Figure 17Up above the heat shield are the two tabs that hold the shift cables in place (green arrows). Pry out the cables to free them from the center tunnel.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic18.jpg
Figure 18Now, pop the cable ends off the ball joints. For the cable on the side, you can use a 14mm open end wrench in between the cable end and the ball joint to pry it off to the side (yellow arrow). The other cable end is a bit harder to remove because of the rotation of the shift lever and also as it's difficult to find a fulcrum point to pry it off. I grabbed the cable end with some channel locks and gave it a good tug downward (green arrow). Once both cable ends are free, use the channel locks to pull the two cable retaining clips down and off (fuchsia arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic19.jpg
Figure 19Once loose, pull the shift cable retaining clips down and off.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic20.jpg
Figure 20Slide the shift cables back and out of the shift housing. Don't forget to remove the small seals on the end of each cable and fit them to the new cables.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic21.jpg
Figure 21Feed the new cable ends up through the engine compartment into the black plastic retainer and pop them both into place (green arrows). Large Image ' Extra-Large Image

Oct 29, 2013 | TRANSMISSION Mini Cooper 2002 02 2003 03...

1 Answer

Can't figure out which color cables go where on tv to dvd


follow the color code, red white and yellow from dvd output to red white and yellow tv input, match the color of cable end to color inside the jacks of the units

Mar 10, 2013 | Philips Televison & Video

1 Answer

Install door latch cable


Technical Instructions
See picture below
1. Remove door trim panel and water shield per
NOTE: Place a strip of masking tape along the edge of door before removing trim panel to prevent scratching the door with the trim panel removal tool.

2. Snap cable housing end from slot on inside door handle assembly and disconnect cable.
NOTE: Use care to prevent bending of cable housing retainer bracket.

3. Remove rear window channel retaining bolt to allow access to door latch.

4. Position a block (screwdriver handle) between the latch and the door inner panel and snap the cable housing end out of slot (towards inner panel) on door latch assembly and disconnect cable at latch.
NOTE: Use care when removing cable housing to avoid bending of the latch. Discard cable.

5. Hook up new cable at latch and snap cable housing end into slot.
NOTE: Make sure the cable housing is fully seated in the slot.

6. Apply a light film of Teflon grease to the barrel end of the cable. See Figure A.

7. Install return spring. See Figure A.
NOTE: Ensure that the push button rod is located between the spring and the door inner panel.

8. Install foam block at latch. See Figure A.

9. Position water shield over the return spring and install push pin to retain upper portion of water shield. See Figure B.
NOTE: Push pin goes in the same hole as the return spring.

10. Clean hands of grease before performing step 11.

11. Remove protective backing along the lower edges only of the water shield. See Figure A.

12. Install latch water shield at door latch. Pinch the exposed adhesive surfaces together to secure the water shield. Check to insure water shield is not showing through the door shut-face latch access hole. See Figure B.

13. Attach cable to inside door handle assembly and snap cable housing into slot.
NOTE: Make sure the cable housing is fully seated.

14. Check the gap as shown in remote control using a 3/16 drill bit shank end. The drill bit shank should fit in the gap without any clearance and a tight fit is preferred. See Figure C.

15. If the drill bit is too loose or does not fit, adjust by bending the cable bracket as required.

16. Place plastic wedge on remote bracket as shown. Wedge must fit with at least a light press fit for retention. See Figure D.

17. After installation, Apply a dab of special Teflon grease, supplied with the service cable to cable housing openings at inside handle end. The grease should surround and contact the cable all the way around, to seal the opening between the cable and the cable housing.

18. Check all latch functions to insure correct assembly of latch system. If the inside handle does not release properly, replace the inside handle remote release mechanism.

19. Reposition and install trim panel using new push pins if required.


emissionwiz_53.jpg

Dec 07, 2010 | 1993 Ford F250

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How do you change the self propelled cable on Toro Model 20005 22 " recycler. Can't figure out how to remove the plastic black cover the cable goes under.


how do you change the self propelled cable on Toro Model 20005 22 " recycler. Can't figure out how to remove the plastic black cover the cable goes under

Aug 27, 2010 | Toro Lawn Mower With Toro Power Tools

1 Answer

My pioneer DVD-RW-109 since re formating my computer won't play a DVD or read it- no disc


Check the drive cables
Perform the steps in this section to check the drive cabling: WARNING: The edges of metal panels can cut skin. Be careful not to slide skin along any interior metal edge of the computer. CAUTION: This product contains components that can be damaged by electrostatic discharge (ESD). To reduce the chance of ESD damage, work over a non-carpeted floor, use a static dissipative work surface (like a conductive foam pad), and wear an ESD wrist strap connected to a grounded surface.
  1. Turn off the computer, unplug all cords from the computer, and then press the Power button on the front of the PC for five seconds.
  2. Remove the side panel. Figure 4: Removing the side panel c00625870.jpg
  3. Gently remove both the data cable and the power cable from the back of the CD drive. Figure 5: Ribbon and power cable c00625871.jpg
  4. Reinsert the power and data cables into the back of the drive making sure the cables fit snugly into their connectors and making sure there are no bent pins.
  5. Gently remove and reinsert the CD drive data cable from the connector on the motherboard. Be very careful to not dislodge other cables. NOTE: If the CD/DVD drive is not original equipment and was recently added, make sure that the drive cable is installed correctly:
    • Make sure that ribbon cable from the drive connects to the proper IDE location on the motherboard (usually the secondary IDE connector).
    • Make sure Master or Slave jumper setting matches the correct Master or Slave cable connector or is set to Cable Select. Figure 6: Jumper c00817936.jpg Figure 7: Upper IDE cable connectors c00180570.jpg 1 - Slave connector (middle) 2 - Master connector (end)
  6. Replace the cover and plug in the power, keyboard, mouse, and video cables. Figure 8: Replacing the side panel c00817937.jpg
  7. Turn on the computer. When the first logo screen opens, press the F10 key repeatedly until the BIOS Setup screen appears.
  8. Press F5 , and then press the Enter key to reset the BIOS to the defaults. Setup Defaults can also be found on the EXIT screen of the BIOS Setup Utility.
  9. Use the Left and Right Arrow keys to select Main .
  10. The hardware-identifying name should appear next to one of the channel listings. Figure 9: Example of CD/DVD drive listing in BIOS c00817938.jpg Do one of the following actions depending on what is listed in the BIOS:
    • If the drive name appears , the drive is recognized by the BIOS and should also be recognized by Windows. Press F10 to exit the BIOS and let the computer start into Windows.
      • If Windows recognizes the drive, you are finished.

Sep 15, 2009 | Computers & Internet

2 Answers

Cannot figure out how cable threads through


This video may help

http://bicycletutor.com/grip-shift-cable/

May 23, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

Trying to switch my symphonic tv back to cable mode


under menu their should be a CA/TV option.

May 12, 2009 | Symphonic WF104

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