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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the motherboard you bought did not come with a processor and heatsink, you will have to take the one from your current system and put them in the new one. You will also need thermal paste for this transfer, so please purchase some if you do not have it already.
Keep in mind that no versions of Windows XP can use more than 4 GB of RAM, and only the 64-bit version of Windows Vista can correctly use it. If you are still intent on replacing the board after knowing this, follow these directions.
You're going to want to be very careful with this kind of procedure. Ensure that everything is unplugged and that you are working in a static free environment. (Not on the carpet!)
First, you'll want to take out the power supply. Follow the cables down, and disconnect them from each of the components it powers. The connections for the motherboard will have retention clips, so be careful. Once you have the connections undone, take a screwdriver and remove the power supply from the case.
Next, look to see if the hard drives hover over the board in any way. If they are not in the way, try not to remove them. We want as little re-assembly as possible.
You're going to want to disconnect the cables for the hard drive(s) next. Remove them from the motherboard, keeping an eye on which cables went where. The same goes for the cables from your DVD/CD drive(s).
Next, take a look at what's connected to your board. Are there any expansion cards? If so, unscrew them from the back of the machine, and carefully lift them out. If there is a videocard in the machine, watch for a retention clip - make sure not to force the card out.
After everything is out, look around. Make sure that there are no fans connected from the case to the board, and if there are, unplug them. Lastly, take the wires running from the front of the case to the bottom area of the board, and disconnect them. Please notice if there are labels on them.. you will need to hook them up according to your new board's arrangement.
Once you're sure that nothing else is connected to the board, start unscrewing it from the side of the case. On most boards, there will be six screws for this. Please make sure you get them all. Once this is done, you can lift the old one out. Most people do this by pulling up on the heatsink fan over their processor. I also suggest lifting by the sides of the board itself. It may tug where the back panel with the keyboard/mouse/USB ports are.. Just lift the board on the upper right side and angle it out if it does.
Once you have the old board out, set it somewhere safe. Remove the heatsink. This will be a forceful procedure.. You'll need to lift the rentention clip and lift it off.. Wipe the old thermal paste from the bottom of the heatsink. Go back to the board, and lift the small lever that is next to the processor. You should be able to lift it out, be very careful with the bottom!
Clean the processor, and get the excess thermal paste off. Lift the retention bracket next to the socket of the new board, carefully lining the processor up and setting it down gently. Lower the bracket.
Apply a small bit of thermal paste to the processor. Spread it evenly, making sure there are no gaps or globs. Take the heatsink, align it with the socket, and gently lower it on top of the processor. Lock the heatsink back down, and let it set for a bit to get the air bubbles worked out from the paste. Make sure you connect the fan in the heatsink to the board!
If the metal shield around your keyboard/mouse/USB ports matches your new board, you can leave it in. Otherwise, replace it with the one that came with your new board. Look at how the screws line up with the newer board.. If it matches the gold posts (standoffs) in your case, then you can lower the board back in the same way you lifted the old one out, and gently set it down. It will take some work to get it properly aligned with that metal shield.
Once you have it set down, begin to screw the board down. Make sure ALL of the holes are filled - you don't want anything to short out. Begin with the wires from the front of the case. They are called "front panel" connections, and a guide to hooking them up should be in your motherboard's manual.
Connect the fans back up to the board, and reinstall the power supply, reversing the directions I gave earlier. Leave out the extra expansion cards for now, and if the board has a video port near the keyboard/mouse, leave out the videocard, too. If it doesn't have its own video port, go ahead and put your card back in. Install the RAM.
Connect the power connections from the power supply back up to the board, hard drives, and DVD/CD drives. Take the cables from those drives and reconnect them to your new board. From here, you should be able to turn the system on.
Your system WILL freak out. There is new hardware attached, and it won't have the drivers. Just cancel when it tries to look for them, and then run the CD that came with the motherboard to get everything installed and working. Once you're sure everything's going to be working alright, turn off the machine and reinstall the extra cards.
This is a very bland guide. If you have more specific questions, don't hesitate to ask.
Posted on Apr 09, 2008
That's normal condition. Probably your RAM shares it's capacity with internal video card (which uses the whole 256MB)
More info can be found on Wikipedia:
Posted on Jan 25, 2010
SOURCE: i want to upgrade my
The below is the contents of Intel published for your board
Intel Desktop Board D102GGC2 Technical Product Specification
System Memory The board has two 240-pin DIMM sockets and supports the following memory features: • 1.8 V (only) DDR2 SDRAM DIMMs with gold-plated contacts • Unbuffered, single-sided or double-sided DIMMs with the following restriction: Double-sided DIMMS with x16 organization are not supported. • 2 GB maximum total system memory. • Minimum total system memory: 128 MB • Non-ECC DIMMs • Serial Presence Detect • DDR2 533 or DDR2 400 MHz SDRAM DIMM
hope it helps, if so rate the solution
Posted on Nov 16, 2010
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