Question about Midwest Electric 30-Amp Power Inlet Box - U030ND

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Wiring problem I have 10 gauge 3 wire plus ground romex and need to know what color wire to attach to the x or y marked wire hook up on the inlet female socket

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The wire you have is designed to carry 220 volts. Assumming that your socket is a 220 socket and that is what your application is the following answer applies. The black wire goes to one of the straight prongs and the red wire goes to the other. The white wire goes to the tight angle prong and The ground wire goes to the ground screw. good luck

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

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I have a 4 prong tanning bed 220v and my appliance outlet at home only accepts the 3 prong plus such as the ones you see on a dryer. How can i get this converted to a 3 prong so that i can plug it in? Or...


It is because you tanning bed requires L1 and L2 (240V) and a seperate neutral, and a ground. You need an electrician to install a proper outlet. A dryer (years ago) was installed without a neautral. However per NEC electrical code even new dryers have to have 4 wires. Do not attempt to use on 3 wires !

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I'll try to keep this short, however i have very limited electrical knowledge, so i will try to explain my situation as best i can. i bought a pramac es 8000 used a couple years ago. when we built our...


Ground the generated it's self. I had a similar problem after a storm once. First on the generater itself find a flat peice on the frame say by the motor. Sand in down to mettal. Put a self tapper screw in. Now get a 5' to 6' peice of 10 gauge bear copper wire. Attache it to the generator and shove the rest into the ground. Now it's grounded and It took care power surges when I did it. Hopefully this will help you.

Mar 30, 2011 | Pramac Honda 8000 Watt Generator

1 Answer

Bought used gen. and the wires were cut to thestart wiring.


on the starter there will be a big lug this is where the (+) from the battery goes then there will be a smaller wire lug called a spade lug this might be marker with a (S) this is a small wire that will go from the battery to a switch that is a momentary connection then to the spade lug when you push the switch the power is applied to to solenoid inside that will engage the starter and run release after started some have just the big lug in this case you will need to have a external solenoid and the + from the battery to one side and the other to the lug on the starter there will be a small wire hook up as well on the solenoid marked with a s and the switch will go to that some solenoid's have 2 small wire up points side by side use the one Marks with a (S) the other not needed mount the solenoid to ether the engine or the frame the mount is the grounding plane for the solenoid hope this helps

Aug 24, 2010 | Power Generators

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Im about to install a kubota GL 6500S deisel generator in a house and i have the diagram to wire it up. but i need to know what all i need to do the job as far as materials?


Materials?
1. Transfer switch
2. 10/3 and ground Romex to connect main panel to transfer switch.
3. Screws to mount the transfer switch.
4. Plastic Wire U clips for the Romex.
5. Plug adapter to connect transfer switch to the Generator. (should come with transfer switch)
6. Your probably going to need a drill, extension wire and a 1 inch wood bit to route the wiring. (you can route 10/3 with a 5/8 inch hole but it will be fussy.
7. Do not forget the permit! If your not permitted correctly and you have an electrical fire your insurance company can refuse the claim. (Usually the permit is issued to a qualified electrician)
8. Do not wire the whole house from generator power.
9. A word to the wise.... give refrigerators, freezers and Air-conditioners a 10 - 15 minute break before powering them up after a power loss. They will just cycle the thermal overload due to the high side pressure being to high. Let them cool off and equalize before restarting them.
and the compressors will not start.
10. You will have to install a cover and grommet over the transfer switch wires where they pass through the wall from the Generator power feed.
11. Sealant if needed.

That is about all I can think of for now.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

Jun 16, 2010 | Power Generators

1 Answer

Installing load panel & inlet box


The bigger lugs will tighten just fine. Go that route and it will be easy to upgrade! If it seems way large when you put the wire in, strip the wire back and double it over. The # 6 may be a bit big for the 30 amp lugs. 30 amp circuit is usually # 10.

Sep 08, 2009 | Reliance Controls 50-Amp Power Inlet Box...

1 Answer

Starter switch burning out after it has been started? Also need to confirm where the ground should be hooked up too?


What I would do is isolate the starter from the switch and see if the starter turns without heating up any wires. If this works, then you have a loose connection going to the swich. Trace out the wires to the switch. As far as the ground, I would place it on the engine block or genset, where ever you can find a bolt.

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Steam generator will not activate- thermasol model ASD300A


how do you know the unit has power?

what control do you have?

does it light up.

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Coleman Powermate Progen 5000, the 240 locking 4 plug, how to wir


The L1420p is a common plug used for most all generators having 20amp outlet with ground. The markings on the plug are as follows; x,y, are hot connections 115v each; w connection is neutral; g is ground. You will need a four conductor cable to connect all the wires. In some cases, there is no need to connect the ground wire because on the generator, the ground is the frame. Check your manual for the proper method of attaching a ground to your generator. So unless you are grounding the frame to a ground rod or other method, the ground wire on the plug just goes to frame. If the heater is used on a jobsite, check local codes or OSHA requirements. You could also just ground the heater like many appliances in the home where there is an extra ground wire from the frame of the appliance to ground. Good Luck

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2 Answers

Generator plugs doesn't match cord


Hey steve. do you really need 240 volts for 120 v. circuits. the reason you have to have an adaptor plug is because on your 220 volt plug in , 2 of tthose prongs are hot and 1 is ground. for safety you need to get a plug adapter ( a regular 120 volt plug end ) run a ground from adapter to ground on 220 adapter. same with nuetral. you also need to ground your generator. there is usaully a ground lug on the bottom of the gen. Another way. if you dont really need 220 v. is to use both 120v. recepticals on gen. Run 2 chords to tranf. switch. and hard wire it in to switch. another way i did mine . when i lost power in this hurricane. i ran two # 10 chords from my 2 120v. recept on my gen to my breaker panel. when you do this you have to pull the service meter, if you dont when power comes back on it would backfeed through your gen.then i turn all my 220v. breakers i was able to run lights ,ciling fans, freezer, ice box,washing machine and gas dryer , tv's computors etc. . but to do this, you probably need someone that knows what they are doin.

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3 Answers

Coleman Powermate 6250


My answer:

This a fairly common problem & easy fix with the Powermates, and other Gensets in the same class - made in you know where - China.

I seriously doubt if the Ignition Coil had anything to do with the failure of the KILL switch, as by how it's wired in the Genset circuit unless maybe you failed to fully set it to the ON position, and then in that case you may have had some "arc over" internally at that switch contact point to Gnd - prematurely causing a bit of engine surging - as that like which happens just before an engine runs out of gas.

If your Genset has a 3-wire connector harness coming off that ON/OFF switch then most likely there are only 3 wires connected to the back of that switch. One single wire (most likely GRN in color) goes to an/the Engine Block GROUND bolt somewhere - easy to follow.

The other 2 wires will be the same color (every Genset is a bit different so my schematic only says they are #18 with no color stated - possibly WHT though ??), and one of those 2 wires goes to the #1 pin of that 3-wire harness connector, which in turn is WHT in color on the other side of that 3-wire harness connector pin #1, and goes back to the Control Board inside the Front Panel Box. The other #18 switch wire goes to the Ignition Coil Primary side. Lets hope it's just a bad switch and not a bad Control Board.

Most likely the switch contacts inside just burned out from heat breakdown, as when you go to shut off the Genset - by turning it to OFF - the switch has to take the Ignition Coil Primary voltage/current and basically SHORTS it to Ground thus collapsing the Ignition Coil by robbing the Primary excitation voltage. It's bound to fail if it's a "cheap switch design" to begin with. AND - we all know about cheap Made in China stuff now don't we?

Just so you know - you are not the only one in this same Genset boat - as there are tons of people out there with far worse Powermate problems then just a simple switch problem like you have there. Count your blessings!

You are right about Powermate being out of business though, but not all hope is lost there either when you read everything farther below - as to factory service and parts for your Genset.

I know it's a little long, but the info farther below may be of future help to you later down the road - so copy and print it out for later reference just in case you have other Powermate Genset issues or this site goes down as well....hahahaha.....just kidding.

If you choose to contact the PRAMAC people about getting a new switch, and repairing the Genset yourself here are a couple options for you. If their factory replacement part is outrageously high in price - then you have another option.

If you are handy with a good soldering iron and some good 60/40 Kester solder and acid flux all you have to get is a good ON-OFF single-pole single-throw (only 2 wire connection points for the wires) toggle switch rated at 120 VAC or 12-24 VDC, and at least 10-15 amps rated, and just do it yourself. $5 part worst case!!

DO NOT use a Momentary switch type - as then someone could start the Genset inadvertently - esp if you have smaller kids around!!

Just make sure you get a good solder connection on the wires and the switch tabs, and make sure you tin both the wires and the switch tabs first to get good results. If the switch doesn't fit the old hole perfectly you may have to do a bit of modification work there.

Sorry - I can't help you out there. Make sure you mark the switch as to ON & OFF - unless you find one with a metal ON-OFF backplate like some come with - as there is no right or wrong way here. It's either one way or the other depending on how you mount the switch to personal preference. Right - Left or Up - Down.

Test the switch first before final mounting by firing the Gennie in whichever is the ON position so you know which is which, and make sure it kills the Gennie when you flip the switch in the opposite direction. That's is all there is to it. You're done!!

Hopefully like I said before the Ignition Coil is OK and so to is the Control Board otherwise I know I'll be hearing back from you soon.

Please post me a reply as to finding this solution being the best resolve to your Genset problem there by following my recommendations above. Also please rate my troubleshooting fix as well.

Keep me posted and I'll follow up as well.

Best regards,

Frank

Sep 09, 2008 | Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W...

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