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Gfci trips.it protects 4 receptacles downstram from it.If I disconnect from downstream receptacles it will not trip.This is on kitchen counter-top circuit.All wiring and devices are only 6 months old.Someone told me maybe some moisture got in one of the receptacles.I was going to try disconnecting farthest receptacle and try gfci and see if it trips and then work closer to gfci and see where problem lies.I don't know what else to do.I tried 2 different gfci's.Any ideas?Thanks,joe

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Yes , your approach to troubleshooting is a sane one .. start at one end and disconnect things untill the fault goes away. There may be a loose wire, one rubbed by a mounting screw, or a broken wire that is grounding the circuit. all these things should be looking for as you take each receptacle out and check it ..

Posted on May 04, 2010

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There can be a few different reason for a trip. 1. Amps exceed rating off GFCI ie 15 amp receptacle can only handle up to 15 amp anymore and it will trip. 2. miss wiring; neutral must be on white screws hot on black and ground, green also inlet power (line) must be on bottom screws, outlet or load must be on top 3, a short, whether it be neutral or hot touching something in the box. Frayed wire, wire next to side of interior of box or yes moisture. Also a short in an appliance aven a new one can cause a trip. Remember if the refrigerator is on this same circuit, which is not a good idea it can cause a trip. At start up the fridge can spike to near 15 amps and a voltage spike can cause a gfci to trip. There are 20amp GFCI's so that can be your last resort, if all else fails.

Posted on Aug 26, 2009

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Holiday Tradition Express starts to run but seems to trip out and stop. Could this be a problem with the electronic board? Does anyone repair these boards?


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads.

if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!















Jan 03, 2017 | Washing Machines

Tip

Wiring a GFIC alternative.


When wiring a GFCI (Ground Fault Interrupter Circuit) receptacle you would normally connect the wire coming from the service panel or the hot wire to the LINE connection at the GFCI and then connect the other receptacles you wish to protect to the LOAD side on the GFCI. But let's say you have installed a GFCI in a garage circuit and want to run a wire to the garage door opener from that circuit without the garage door opener receptacle being protected by the GFCI but still want all other receptacles protected. Reason being that the garage door opener will trip the GFCI more often than not. You may also want to have a receptacle for a freezer in the garage. You do not want that freezer protected by the GFCI circuit as it may trip without your knowledge and cause all the food to spoil. Warning: Only install a single plug receptacle for the freezer and not a double plug receptacle. That way only one thing, the freezer, can be plugged into this receptacle as it is not GFCI protected. The way to avoid the breaker tripping is to connect the garage door opener & freezer receptacle to the LINE side of the GFCI. This way it is not protected by the GFCI and there is no danger of that receptacle loosing power due to a tripped breaker on the GFCI. When the GFCI trips power will still be available at any receptacle connected on the line side. On any GFCI you can connect two sets of wires to the LINE side. If you have more than two you will have to connect those together under a wire nut and then use a jumper wire to connect to the LINE on the GFCI. Look at the photo and you will see the 2 sets of holes to connect at the LINE side (Bottom) on the back of the GFCI receptacle. There are also 2 sets of holes to connect on the LOAD side (Upper). Of course you would use a wire nut and jumper to connect all the ground wires.8dd2149.png

on Dec 13, 2009 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Why does my dryer trip main fuse box for sockets in house if i switch dryer on


tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the DRYER parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads.

if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you APPLIANCE should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.


The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the MACHINE is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!




Jan 26, 2016 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Hi my fisher and paykel MW512 top loader washing machine keeps throwing my electrical switch. A few months ago it wouldnt drain and came up with heaps of error codes and now it is tripping my switch. What...


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.

Mar 25, 2015 | Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

1 Answer

Ground fault keeps tripping


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.






Mar 17, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

I got 2 wascomat gen5 that trips breakers only on rinse cycle


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.




Mar 17, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

I''ve gotta small issue with an electrical outlet in my kitchen. I've got a GFI that is connected with two additional outlets as would be the norm. I was having a problem with the GFI popping every once in...


GFCI receptacles are polarized and connecting them correctly is critical. The hot wire should be black, blue, red, etc. The neutral should be white or natural gray. The ground should be green (if equipped).

Also, it's common to have other receptacles in a kitchen wired "downstream" of a GFCI so that if the GFCI trips or there is an issue with another non GFCI outlet, you're still protected.

Check all outlets in the kitchen and be sure they are wired correctly and in good shape. Unplug everything while you test. If the GFCI still trips, start looking for loose neutrals or bad ground wiring (or no ground) at the other receptacles since you said you already checked the breaker box.

A coffee maker can be a cuplrit that causes a GFCI to trip since it is a heating device and uses water, which can make them more susceptible to electrical problems. Check the microwave too (if equipped).

Jan 02, 2010 | IDEAL MCM TESTER GFI CIRCUIT

1 Answer

GFCI IS TRIPPING


how old is it ? GFI's internal parts wear out,can't be fixed.all three receptacles are being protected by the one w/GFI

Sep 21, 2009 | Leviton 8599 GFCI Receptacle

1 Answer

Ground Fault circuit Breaker trips each time a load is applied


The most likely causes in their order of probability are: 1) water somewhere in the circuit causing the hot wire to ground; 2) a legitimate trip caused by a defect in a device plugged into the circuit; and 3) a defective GFCI breaker. In the first case, wait until it has been dry for about a week and see if it trips. In the second case, make sure there is nothing plugged into the circuit and try resetting. In the third case go ahead and put the regular breaker in, then put a GFCI outlet into the first box downstream from the breaker. If installed according to the directions, that outlet should protect all of the outlets downstream.

Feb 26, 2009 | Cutler Hammer 1 Pole 15 Amp Ground Fault

1 Answer

Hobart 20 QT. mixer (HL 200) will not operate on a GFCI receptacle.


you need to replace the gfci,the older gfci's interpret these frequencies as a shock hazard and shut off power to the circuit.you can buy @hobart, part#913053, that should solve the trip problem. dont forget to vote thanks monomoy

Apr 05, 2008 | Food Mixers

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