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Fuses blow when there's an overload. This is most likely caused by a semiconductor device(s) shorted. In amps this is often cuased by speaker wires that have touched while on power. The main culprits are the devices on the heat sink. If they are transistors then connecting an Ohm Meter accros the terminals of the transistor(s) (amp switched off) will show as if you have touched the test probes together! More than one device might have blown!!
unplugged with nO power cord connected,,after checking for any internal blown fuses, inspect circuit board for burnt resistors or blown caps, the resistors will appear to be laying on there sides and have multi colored bands around them look for burnt or discolored ones, blown capacitors will look like tiny barrels with lids a flat top indicates a good capacitor as any humped or bulged or rounded top would indicate blown cap , if not more than a couple you may be able to replace these with success, be careful always Unplug from power before servicing electronic componants.
You may have blown the inline fuses for output sound. Amps have alot of fuses under the hood. take the amp cover off and check all fuses are not blown / wire broke inside fuse. Some fuses are hidden under circuit boards on some amps, check everywhere possible to check all fuses. If all fuses are fine and no broken wires inside them, you may have loose connection where your speaker wire ports are inside the amp. Check they arent black or loose. if they black they are blown as there usually soldered (a silver colour)
Fuse blowing is due to excessive current drain and the the first clue is the blown fuse itself. If the fuse blows with a flash a bang and splatters copper across the inside of the glass you have a hard blow caused by a dead short on the power supply, check for power switch flashing over internaly. Short circuit main filter capacitors. Shorted turns in power transformer primary winding. If fuse just separates check for short on output transistors C to E. Try isolating fault by disconnecting LT pos/neg supplies to output stage. Also check for partial shorts on speakers and speaker wires using an analog ohm meter on low ohms setting.
it is never advised to change wires while the amp is switched on. you may have blown your diodes on your post amp then you have a problem. have you tried other speakers tested your speaker on another system to rule them out as OK? if you open the case be careful not to touch any large capacitor as they may still be chared and can give you a nasty belt. any fuses should be easy to find and to see if they are blown. ensure you get the same rate fuse when you replace. if you see any charing of diodes then i think repair may be costly. good luck.
It sounds like the output transistors are faulty and that they took out the fuses when they failed. At this point the protection circuits are kicking in and preventing the output section from turning on. Can you please reply to this and post the make and model? That will help me to give you some information about what is needed for the repair.
Ok this means the AMP is in protection mode!..most likely the cause is a short in your wireing from the speaker wires! check all wires going in and out of amp! Look for stray wires touching metal or other contacts! (If this does not fix it the short may be inside of amp!
(This has nothing to do with a fuse!)
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There are a few fuses inside the amplifier. The case lid will come off pretty easily once you remove all the screws. You can visually inspect fuses looking for the blown one (filament will be broken), or use a multimeter for ceramic fuses. However, the fuses in my B&K ST-1400 do have transparent cases. If once you replace the fuse, it blows again, then that would suggest an underlying problem.,
mmmm... i had a problem like this before, it seems that you have blown a IC or 2 or 3... if you have blown all your channels IC's then it would be better to buy a new amp, it also depends on what watts your amp is... if it isn't a very high watt amp then it wouldn't be that much to fix, if u only blown 1 or 2 Ic in a channel then let it get fixed, and NEVER switch ports if your amp is still running/playing... its like fixing your car when the motor is running...