Question about GE JKP86 Electric Double Oven
I have a GE JKP86B0F2BB
Neither the oven element or the broil elements will heat.
All of the functions on the control panel seem to work. You can turn it on and the fan starts but it just never heats.
The microwave works fine.
On appliances like this only the heating elements use 220 volts. things like the clock, fan, etc use 110 volts. That is why some things work and other do not. Start at the breaker, sometimes a double pole breaker will have 1 side tripped, but will look perfectly fine. switch the breaker all the way to off then re-set. If nothing changes follow the power to the appliance remove the panel and look for some fuses, check to see if any are blown. Also sometimes the microwave will have a separate power source even though its built in to the same appliance. So that's not always a good symptom to follow.
Posted on Nov 11, 2007
SOURCE: GE Oven bake element not work
It sounds like a problem with the selector switch. You have to remove the back panel to get to the back of the switch in the head unit, and find what wire goes from there to the bake element. With a meter set on 240ACV, or whichever setting is on yours that's HIGHER than that i.e. 400ACV, with the red probe on the terminal and the black one going to ground, see if you are getting 210-240 through it. If so, then it's either a faulty neutral wire connection (the other wire coming out of the element) or the selector switch. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jan 29, 2008
brand new??? under a year old??? if so you have a warr call for service, but it sounds like an ignitor isssue, brand new , perhapsgot damaged in shipping 1-800-ge-cares
Posted on Mar 30, 2008
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
having the same problem, microwave works however oven does not heat up. The controls work, I can set the temp and bake, the fan turns on but the oven does not heat.
Posted on Nov 26, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 01, 2014 | GE JKP86 Electric Double Oven
Nov 10, 2007 | Ovens
Oct 11, 2012 | GE JKP86 Electric Double Oven
Sep 02, 2011 | GE JKP86 Electric Double Oven
Feb 19, 2011 | GE JKP30CMCC 27" Built-in Single Electric...
If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right, then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.
Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly
Dec 11, 2010 | GE JTP85 Electric Double Oven
Nov 25, 2010 | GE JKP86 Electric Double Oven
Jan 27, 2010 | GE JKP86 Electric Double Oven
Mar 16, 2009 | GE JTP15 Electric Single Oven
96 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!