Question about Amana ALE230RAW Electric Dryer

11 Answers

Amana dryer shuts off with closing door

No heat on dryer. Opened it up: top wire on thermal fuse burnt. Changed wire and fuse. Now dryer door switch is reversed: appliance works with door open, shuts off with door closed!

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  • 9 more comments 
  • ppaquette Jan 17, 2009

    Initially, no heat on clothes dryer.
    Opened it up: top wire on thermal fuse burnt. Changed wire and fuse. Now dryer works with door open, shuts off with door closed!

  • ppaquette Jan 17, 2009

    All wires were replaced to their original positions. I double-checked a moment ago, and still the dryer starts up when I press the time with the door switch in the open position, th ecomplete opposite of how it should work!!!. 

  • ppaquette Jan 17, 2009

    Initially, no heat on clothes dryer.
    Opened it up: top wire on thermal fuse burnt. Changed wire and fuse. Now dryer works with door open, shuts off with door closed!

    All wires were replaced to their original positions, on the thermal fuse and the door switch. I double-checked a moment ago, and still the dryer starts up when I press the timer with the door switch in the open position, the complete opposite of how it should work!!!.

  • ppaquette Jan 17, 2009

    Door switch has 2 different size connectors, so you can't get them mixed up. As all parts supply stores are closed until Monday, can I bypass the door switch with a straight connection and just use the timer? I already did a test and it works; however, even though this seems a logical temporary solution, I have no idea if this is potentially harmful, even dangerous.


    What say you?

  • ppaquette Jan 17, 2009

    Initially, no heat on clothes dryer.
    Opened it up: top wire on thermal fuse burnt. Changed wire and fuse. Now dryer works with door open, shuts off with door closed!

    All wires were replaced to their original positions, on the thermal fuse and the door switch. I double-checked a moment ago, and still the dryer starts up when I press the timer with the door switch in the open position, the complete opposite of how it should work!!!.

    Door switch has 2 different size connectors, so you can't get them mixed up. As all parts supply stores are closed until Monday, can I bypass the door switch with a straight connection and just use the timer? I already did a test and it works; however, even though this seems a logical temporary solution, I have no idea if this is potentially harmful, even dangerous.
    What say you?

  • ppaquette Jan 17, 2009

    Initially, no heat on clothes dryer.
    Opened it up: top wire on thermal fuse burnt. Changed wire and fuse. Now dryer works with door open, shuts off with door closed!

    All wires were replaced to their original positions, on the thermal fuse and the door switch. I double-checked a moment ago, and still the dryer starts up when I press the timer with the door switch in the open position, the complete opposite of how it should work!!!.

    Door switch has 2 different size connectors, so you can't get them mixed up. As all parts supply stores are closed until Monday, can I bypass the door switch with a straight connection and just use the timer? I already did a test and it works; however, even though this seems a logical temporary solution, I have no idea if this is potentially harmful, even dangerous.
    What say you?

  • ppaquette Jan 17, 2009

    I have completely vacuumed out the dryer. I do have heat. The remaining mystery is why, when I set the timer and start the dryer, will it not start up with the door closed, but will start up with the door open?

  • ppaquette Jan 17, 2009

    Initially, no heat on clothes dryer.
    Opened it up: top wire on thermal fuse burnt. Changed wire and fuse. Now dryer works with door open, shuts off with door closed!

    All wires were replaced to their original positions, on the thermal fuse and the door switch. I double-checked a moment ago, and still the dryer starts up when I press the timer with the door switch in the open position, the complete opposite of how it should work!!!.

    Door switch has 2 different size connectors, so you can't get them mixed up. As all parts supply stores are closed until Monday, can I bypass the door switch with a straight connection and just use the timer? I already did a test and it works; however, even though this seems a logical temporary solution, I have no idea if this is potentially harmful, even dangerous.
    What say you?

    I have completely vacuumed out the dryer. I do have heat. The remaining mystery is why, when I set the timer and start the dryer, will it not start up with the door closed, but will start up with the door open?

  • ppaquette Jan 17, 2009

    Initially, no heat on clothes dryer.
    Opened it up: top wire on thermal fuse burnt. Changed wire and fuse. Now dryer works with door open, shuts off with door closed!

    All wires were replaced to their original positions, on the thermal fuse and the door switch. I double-checked a moment ago, and still the dryer starts up when I press the timer with the door switch in the open position, the complete opposite of how it should work!!!.

    Door switch has 2 different size connectors, so you can't get them mixed up. As all parts supply stores are closed until Monday, can I bypass the door switch with a straight connection and just use the timer? I already did a test and it works; however, even though this seems a logical temporary solution, I have no idea if this is potentially harmful, even dangerous.
    What say you?

    I have completely vacuumed out the dryer. I do have heat. The remaining mystery is why, when I set the timer and start the dryer, will it not start up with the door closed, but will start up with the door open?

  • ppaquette Jan 17, 2009

    Initially, no heat on clothes dryer.
    Opened it up: top wire on thermal fuse burnt. Changed wire and fuse. Now dryer works with door open, shuts off with door closed!

    All wires were replaced to their original positions, on the thermal fuse and the door switch. I double-checked a moment ago, and still the dryer starts up when I press the timer with the door switch in the open position, the complete opposite of how it should work!!!.

    Door switch has 2 different size connectors, so you can't get them mixed up. As all parts supply stores are closed until Monday, can I bypass the door switch with a straight connection and just use the timer? I already did a test and it works; however, even though this seems a logical temporary solution, I have no idea if this is potentially harmful, even dangerous.
    What say you?

    I have completely vacuumed out the dryer. I do have heat. The remaining mystery is why, when I set the timer and start the dryer, will it not start up with the door closed, but will start up with the door open?

  • ppaquette Jan 17, 2009

    Initially, no heat on clothes dryer.
    Opened it up: top wire on thermal fuse burnt. Changed wire and fuse. Now dryer works with door open, shuts off with door closed!

    All wires were replaced to their original positions, on the thermal fuse and the door switch. I double-checked a moment ago, and still the dryer starts up when I press the timer with the door switch in the open position, the complete opposite of how it should work!!!.

    Door switch has 2 different size connectors, so you can't get them mixed up. As all parts supply stores are closed until Monday, can I bypass the door switch with a straight connection and just use the timer? I already did a test and it works; however, even though this seems a logical temporary solution, I have no idea if this is potentially harmful, even dangerous.
    What say you?

    I have completely vacuumed out the inside of the dryer, opened up the heating compartment to clean that out also. I do have heat. The remaining mystery is why, when I set the timer and start the dryer, will it not start up with the door closed, but will start up with the door open?

    The only connections that were touched were the thermal fuse and the door switch (4 connections in all!), and they were all connected back the same.

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11 Answers

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"Now dryer works with door open, shuts off with door closed!"

That means that the door sensor is defective, you need to replace the door latch, or the wiring harness.

Click here to get replacement parts and diagrams.

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

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What it Seems like is The (SWITCH) is Shorted to Ground Or the Opposite Which ever Type of (ON/OFF) Cuircit it is, A DVM will Help you locate this short ,
A Quick fix would Obviously Be To remove the Switch from Its Ancored Mount and Sacrifise the SAFTEY FEATURE That turns OFF Dryer when Door in Opened. Also Look for a (Small CONTROLER CUIRCIT BOARD) I Hope this Can Help you Or at Liest Give Fresh Idea's to work with. Have a Good Weekend !!! Please Remember to RATE me if I've Helped you in any way and. Thank You!!!!!! RejakWilson

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

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These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

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Something Is Definitely Hooked Up Wrong.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

  • Michael Fisher
    Michael Fisher Jan 18, 2009

    Yeah If You Want It To Work Today Just Remove The Screws And Drop The Open Switch Inside So It Doesn't Get Pressed When You Close The Door. This Is Only A Temporary Fix Though

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I would try reversing the wires. on the fuse. If that don't work, reverse the wires on door latch

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

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Hello and welcome to FixYa!,

At the end I will give you the Service Manual but:

1) Clean out the Lint Collector

2) Open up the back of the Dryer and look for anything Burnt- Replace if any!

3) It also sounds like the Thermal Sensor has burnt out on the Machine- Causing No Heat!
(Only a Technician should Change this)

4) Here is the Manual!, Here is how to clean the Vents

Hope this works --P3NGYJ03

(THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM I HAVE SEEN IT EVERYWHERE AND THERE ARE DIFFERENT SOLUTIONS)

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

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Try reversing the wires. Firstly on the fuse. If that don't work, reverse the wires on door latch

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 24, 2009

    the door switch is shot and it's probably due to the fuse short. I do think the dryer will work with a new door switch

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The door swithch is defective as the circuit of the switch is getting short as u close the door so its the problem.also reverse the connections as itmight not be connected properly.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

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Yes you did the replacing of parts properly.but you connected the connections reversed.reconnect them the other way and check.it will then work properly.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

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Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.

Door switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

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Check the way you added the wires... reverse them and try again

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith Jan 17, 2009

    actually... when you took it apart to fix the thermal fuse... did you reverse the connector when you plugged it back in ?



    Robert

  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith Jan 17, 2009

    Shouldn't be dangerous as long as you don't put your hands inside when it is running... if you have kids i would NOT recommend it



    Robert

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1 Answer

No heat . heating element looks good no coils broke. replaced thermal fuse and themostat .now what?


Hi mikedissnts...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

Sep 08, 2011 | Amana Dryers

1 Answer

I have an amana electric dryer. Will not heat up. i checked thermostat for continuity it is good. i checked the two thermal fuses for continuity they are good. I even jumped a wire accross all three...


Hi pitsburg69...
you have probably already checked some of these...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
Please take time to rate me

Sep 04, 2011 | Amana Dryers

1 Answer

My Amana ned7200tw dryer is not heating. I tried all the troubleshooting. do you think it is the heating element? What is the easiest way to get to it? The back doesnt come off like any older dryer I have...


Hi abaitschmidt...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

Aug 28, 2011 | Amana NED7200TW Electric Dryer

2 Answers

My amana commercial quality 7 cycle dryer suddenly stopped heating...still tumbles and blows cold air...thermal fuse? where is it located?


Hi imasters582...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

Aug 22, 2011 | Amana NED7200TW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My amana dryer with model no lea50aw doesnt heat up


Hi hernani hern....

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

Aug 16, 2011 | Amana NDE2330AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Wont turn on, flashes door opened, it seems like it blew a fuse


Hello,

IF the door is closed and it still flashes door opened i would be checking the door switch first before the thermal fuse if i were you, if you reply with exact model number as found on the label on the rim inside of the door i will tell you how to check your door switch.

Gene

Aug 10, 2011 | Amana Dryers

1 Answer

I have a 7200 series Amana 27" Domestic Dryer that is only a couple of years old. Today I went to dry some clothes and it would not get hot. We cleaned the outside and inside vents and lint screen...


Hi ket1011...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

Jul 31, 2011 | Amana NED7200TW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

The 3405281 relay burnt out. I replaced and the dryer still will not run unless I hold the start switch


It doesn't work at all If your dryer doesn't work at all, it could be because of problems with: Power from the house Door switch Thermal fuse Wiring Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker. Door switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

Dec 31, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer wil not run, buzzer does not buzz?


If it is whirlpool--Make sure it has power. Then:Check the door switch. A little lever sticking down through top rightof door opening. If it is not there you will need new doorswitch(sometimes the little lever breaks off). If it is there and doesnot click when you press it in you need a new door switch. if it clicksand clicks when you close the door then you have a bad thermal fuse.The thermal fuse is found by taking the back of the dryer off. The fuseis an oblong white plastic piece with 2 wires attached.

Door switch part number 3406109
Thermal fuse part number 3392519

May 20, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer doesnt start, 600 series kenmore


Q - My dryer is dead, what could do that ?
A - Common problems...blown house fuse/tripped breaker ( electric dryers need 2 )...loose white/neutral wire...broken belt ( on some models only )...door switch/door switch bracket...*thermal fuse open ( venting needs attention )...broken or burnt wire...timer...motor...burnt power cord/plug...start switch ( especially the ones with a built in relay switch )
* If you find a blown thermal fuse, always clean, change, adjust the venting system and vent hood first, then it is sometimes a good idea to replace the operating thermostat at the same time. This is a picture of -some- modern thermal fuses.
It doesn't work at all If your dryer doesn't work at all, it could be because of problems with:

Power from the house
Door switch
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Door switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

Apr 01, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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