Question about Samsung HLN437W 43" Rear Projection HDTV

31 Answers

I just replace the color wheel and now when i turn on the lamo light just flashes and i have to unplug to get it to turn off.The set was working before it was just making the whining noise i have an extra lamp and tried that and checked the cover switch any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Chris

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  • 26 more comments 
  • chris leck Jan 22, 2009

    i have pulled them both out and reinstalled them and same problem.I get the beepiing sounds at startup and both fans are turning on but that is where it stops and the i have to unplug to get the tv to turn off.



    thanks

  • chris leck Jan 23, 2009

    The color wheel or the lamp ?

  • chris leck Jan 23, 2009

    After i take out and reseat the items is there a process i should go through.I do this and plug it in and turn it on.Should i wait before turning it on or try a few different times?

    Thanks

  • chris leck Jan 23, 2009

    When i turn on i am not getting a clicking sound just the fans running and lamp light blinking.The tv was working fine before i replaced the color wheel.



    Thanks

  • chris leck Jan 23, 2009

    Those are the instruction i used when i did the repair.

  • chris leck Jan 23, 2009

    Tried the hard reset.I never use dthe sleep timer.

    Thanks

  • chris leck Jan 23, 2009

    If i bypass the lamp cover switch does the rest of the rear cover need to be on.I am getting tired of pulling the screws in and out.

  • chris leck Jan 23, 2009

    Will the ballast keep the color wheel from starting ?



    thanks,



    Chris

  • chris leck Jan 24, 2009

    I know what the ballast is and what it does but will it keep the color wheel from turing on ?

  • chris leck Jan 24, 2009

    Ok i have a new bulb and my old one but i can say that the color wheel is not staring is there a point i can check to see if no signale to the color wheel ?

    thanks

  • chris leck Jan 24, 2009

    What do you need me to continue ?

  • chris leck Jan 24, 2009

    The model number is hln437w.

    Thanks

  • chris leck Jan 24, 2009

    I guess my only question to that is the fact that i am not getting the three blinking light i am inly getting the lamp light blinking.I understand that it could be the ballast, is there any way to check the voltage at the ballast ?



    thanks

  • chris leck Jan 24, 2009

    Well as far as i can tell the ballast is good so i am not sure what is my next step.

  • chris leck Jan 25, 2009

    Ok i am going to try to pull everything out and redo it i hav e tried once before but i am willing to try again i will let you know the results.



    Thanks

  • chris leck Jan 25, 2009

    My tv will not even start how is this supposed to work ?

  • chris leck Jan 25, 2009

    I just noticed that my remote will not work at times.It is not the batteries in the remote it is owrking but the light on the tv will not blink when i use the remote sometimes. I am not sure where i nthe process this is happening but it happened last night and i thought it was just me btu now it is foing it again.Is this a clue to my problem ?



    thnkas,



    Chris

  • chris leck Jan 25, 2009

    Do you thjnik these instructions will be the same for my tv ?

  • chris leck Jan 25, 2009

    Supid wquestyion but will the lamp light flash if i dont have a video signal hooked up ?

    thnkas

  • chris leck Jan 26, 2009

    Well i did repalce the lamp with the same exact one and i am not getting any of those noises from the ballast.

  • chris leck Jan 28, 2009

    I tried the jumper and did not change but what i am reading is that the jumper is for a color issue not a startup issue ? or am i reading about the wrong jumper ?

    thanks

  • chris leck Jan 28, 2009

    My model is a hln437w.

    thanks

  • chris leck Jan 28, 2009

    The lamp light blnks continuously.

  • chris leck Jan 28, 2009

    Both fans are working and i have celaned them.I am starting to think that there is something i am missing.



    Thanks

  • chris leck Jan 31, 2009

    Ok i left the tv plugged in for the last two days and did not mess with it.I turned it on today and now i have all three lights blinking any ideas ?

  • chris leck Jan 31, 2009

    I am not seeing the jumper on the dmd board any help is appreciated.

  • chris leck Jan 31, 2009

    Can you help me locate the jumper on my model hln437w ?

    thanks

  • chris leck Feb 01, 2009

    Just wanted to say the ballast is testing fine and there is not a button to rat eany answer all i have is accept or repost.

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31 Answers

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Just replaced the ballast with identical rating so it works normal again.

Regards;

Posted on Jul 07, 2009

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Hi!
I think you have become expert after all work done allready.
Just have a look at link may help.

Posted on Feb 03, 2009

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  • 505 Answers

The jumper is really small and like a jumper on a computer drive/motherboard. If you remove the back of the tv the lamp will be to the right, the DMD board is the metal one in the middle with the fan on the big heatsink (fins). Its shielded in the metal case with the little holes. On the side closest to you there will be a little opening like an inch at most. The jumper is in there and it will need to be removed with needle nosed pliers (grippy ones) or something simmilar. If there is no jumper, just the two pins, you need to add a jumper (available at your local computer parts store. You could also have a different problem with the settings in the service menu if this still doesn't solve. Some colorwheels come with new CCA numbers and Actuator number.

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • thielectronick
    thielectronick Jan 31, 2009

    This jumper is for the type of colorwheel and will just mess up the color. If the TV wont come on use the blink codes to narrow down, let it try again and again till it shuts down.. might take a few min.-




  • thielectronick
    thielectronick Feb 02, 2009

    Yeah if you let it run all the way through its "Attempt" at turning on, it will spit out one of these errors.. all 3 leds can be lamp or ballast usually, but also color wheel or dmd will cause too.. If your colorwheel is spinning, your lamp or ballast are the culprit. If you can hear or see the spark gap on the ballast fire (buzz = 1 second) sound after the colorwheel spins up, then you have a bad lamp. If your colorwheel spins up but no buzz or sparkgap, then suspect the ballast. If your colorwheel doesn't spin, check both cables and make sure the ribbon one isn't in backwards.. the jumper will just effect the colors on screen.

  • thielectronick
    thielectronick Feb 03, 2009

    It will take a long time (2-5minutes) before it shuts down and spits out the error. While its booting up, listen to the sequence to find your problem. The lamp light blinking means its still trying to come on, ie not an error code.

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  • 59 Answers

I had the same ploblem after replacing one and it was the switch for the door on the back of the TV. There is a small switch in the bottom left corner that shuts off the lamp. When i put the lid back on the switch didnt allign to be pressed in.

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

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  • 326 Answers

The new color wheel is  different from the original. The original used an Air Bearing type  motor. But the replacement type is a standard bushing type motor. There is a jumper on the rear of the DMD board that may or may not be covered with a paper sticker. Reposition the jumper to accommodate the new color wheel.

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

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This could the problem with door switch of the light or wheel replacement door ,check if the screws are properly tightened and properly in place ...Check of any switch in the housing usually its difficult to locate to also insert old flywheel and check if this error occurs in the set if its not then there is problem with replacement part....


Good luck...

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

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  • 153 Answers

A ballast generate very high voltage,Usually when it one is going bad it either produces the high voltage in pulses or it does a melt down
here are a few instances of the rubber gasket on some color wheels falling inside of the color wheel chamber

Now that you have parts, cost for fitting lamp and wheel will be $80/$100, call few local shop and find who has good fares for such a basic repair, instead of risking to damage further an expensive set.

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

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  • 320 Answers

Hi,
After going through all the solutions given by our experts it is advised to contact the samsung service center for the repair or the replacement..

Thank you.....

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

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  • 179 Answers

Did you change the color wheel because it was noisy?
the most common mistake with the color wheel is putting the copper colored ribbon cable in backwards
it has shinny connectors on one side. if i rembember right they face the back of the set. try turning it around.

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

  • ken black Jan 29, 2009

    ok, time to get into this thing. before the ballast will fire the color wheel has to spin for a second to tell the dmd that it is working. i am not sure why you changed the color wheel, but to do it you had to slide the light engine out. slide the light engine back again and remove the color wheel. position it so it can be connected and not hit anything. with the light engine out reconnect all the cables and wires. remember to tape the lamp door switch down. while watching the color wheel have someone turn on the set. the color wheel should spin for a brief moment and stop. if it doesn't then either you have the 2 plugs from the wheel in wrong or, the new wheel is bad, or you damaged one of the wires.if it spins look at the ballast spark gap ( a little whitish cylinder on the ballast) and see if it sparks. if it does the color wheel should start to spin very fast and the lamp should try to light. if it has no spark you will need to check the voltage going to the ballast (brown and green wire, i think) about 270vdc. if it is there check to be sure the small plug is in good on the ballast and on the dmd board. try this and let me know.

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  • 505 Answers

Click on this link http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-SAMSUNG-COLOR-WHEEL-FOR-HLP4663WX-HLP5063WX_W0QQitemZ190279207561QQihZ009QQcategoryZ3320QQcmdZViewItem and get the correct color wheel. Get the wheel checked that you already have.

Thanks

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

  • Indrajit Roy
    Indrajit Roy Jan 27, 2009

    There is a jumper on the color wheel the you need to remove to take care of this problem. These parts are often used in other sets that have a different lay and circuit orientation. Just remove the jumper and you should be ok, please refer to your documentation on where the jumper is located.

    Thanks

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Here is the samsung service tech line, you have been at this all day maybe they can help. 1-800-7267864

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

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First,Did you replace the lamp with the exact same brand and #,?(If not,you will either need to get the same as original or you will need to get the base that is made for that lamp)

Secondly,A ballast generate very high voltage,Usually when it one is going bad it either produces the high voltage in pulses or it does a melt down.(A ballast going bad,can make the lamp flash)

also when a ballast begins to die,it can produce whining noises,or loud booms and lots of sparks,fire, and smoke.





Posted on Jan 26, 2009

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  • 81 Answers

Are you shoore at the new color wheel a best forme

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

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Your VCR is in child lock. Just press the LOCK button on the remote. I have the same machine.
Cheers

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

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I have researched this quite a bit, and it looks like you could be having two problems, but thinking it's only one, since you've replaced the color wheel.

I am deeply suspect the lamp and ballast have failed as well, and that the bearings in the motor for the color wheel had failed at the same, or near the same, time.

There is no good way to test the lamp, as using it how it is being used is the only real test. And, if it's the original lamp, and has been (unintended) abused in any way, it may have have failed as a result of the abuse.

The three blinking light syndrome is caused by the circuits sensing some type of failure. It will loop and retry 3 times before shutting down the retry, and when you unplug the set, it resets the retry counter. Since nothing has been repaired, it starts the sequence of events all over again.

Reply your thoughts on the above.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

  • Mark Egan Jan 24, 2009

    Go here and read a little bit. You can test it, but best described here, as opposed to me writing it up -

    www.advancetransformer.com/support/faqs.jsp?keywords=hps&showall

    Let me know what you find and maybe I can give you a bit more direction.


  • Mark Egan Jan 24, 2009

    Did you test the ballast, or are you assuming it's good because the lamp flickers, or you can get an arc from it?

    You must understand how ballasts and the lamps connected to them work in order to know that's what the problem is. I hate to be pushy on this, but I hate to see you trash a perfectly good TV that you've put more money, AND time, into.


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Replace to lamp & color wheels your problem will slove

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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Can diagnose this remotely, but when you change the mode, circuits are enabled that normally are not engaged. These circuits are digital processing circuits and may be effecting the data lines that control the entire set. When the power light blinks, is it continuous or can you count a repeated count?

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

  • 5 more comments 
  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 24, 2009

    The CRTs may be starting to weaken. Without a model number, but you can try turning up the screen control
    a little on the flyback transformer. That may brighten up the pix a
    bit at least in the short term

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 24, 2009

    the light engine is the most probable source of this problem.

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 28, 2009

    If you have the problem and are thinking about fixing it yourself,
    it really isn’t that difficult. If you’ve ever taken your PC apart,
    this is not much different… The process involves about 20 screws, 5 or
    6 cables to unplug, and of course put it all back. The toughest part
    about these projects is knowing what to take out and where to look for
    the part you’re replacing. The first time, I took out quite a bit more
    screws and cables than necessar

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 28, 2009
  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 29, 2009

    . Remove the back panel from the television set. The panel runs the
    entire width of the bottom rear of the set. There’s no need to remove
    the access panel for the lamp. That’ll come off with the panel. There
    are 14 screws.

    2. Remove the projector lamp. This may be unnecessary, but (a) it
    let’s you see your target (the color wheel) and (b) it just seems like
    the safe thing to do. It’s easy. Just unscrew the two brass screws
    holding it in. It’s on the right side of the TV. The screws won’t come
    out, just pull them out with the whole unit by pulling on the handle
    and sliding it straight out. Carefully store it somewhere safe.



    3. Remove the panel on the left side by removing two screws holding
    it in place. Carefully slide it and the attached PC board out a few
    inches until cables stop you. You won’t actually need to remove any
    cables from this board to get at the color wheel. (Of course I removed
    most of them the first time.)



    4. Carefully note how the power cable is positioned in the set, and
    the route it takes out the back. Once you have done that, pull the
    power cord out of it’s notch in the bottom of the case. It’s blocking
    the next part that has to slide out.


    5. Remove the center panel. Remove the two screws in the bottom that
    have larger heads than the rest. You don’t need to take off the regular
    sized screws that fasten the back panel to the base. They’ll all slide
    out together. Remove the top two screws that hold the panel to the
    plastic case.



    Center panel. The two screws on the bottom have
    larger heads than the rest. Remember that these go here. There are two
    more screws on the bottom that hold the vertical panel to the base. No
    need to remove them. If you do, things get a bit floppy.


    6. Slide out the center unit slowly, just a few inches and take a
    peek inside as you do. It’s a snug fit, so you’ll need to ease out both
    the top and bottom at the same time. Some things to notice as you do
    this. Look at how the projector lens is fitted inside a foam sheath.
    You’ll need to put that back later, so take a good look.


    There are a few cables on the left side restricting it. You’ll need to unplug these:


    • blue/brown two-wire power cable. You’ll need to unplug this from the main set.

    • blue/white cable connecting to the left side. Squeeze the plug to
      unlatch it and remove it from the center unit that you’re removing.

    • Sensor switch on the right side. Unscrew this from the tv case bracket.



    This arrow is pointing to two of the cables.
    Follow the brown/blue one to the other end to unplug it. Right behind
    this arrow is the white connector for the white/blue cable.




    Here’s one of the screws that are different. Remember to use the smaller brass screw here later.

    Now you can slide the center panel and all the parts behind it out
    of the television. If you didn’t remove any cables on the left panel,
    you’ll have to swing everything over to the left to clear the
    television.


    Note: Steps 7-9 are removing the bad color wheel. I
    suggest doing these steps carefully, as if you were going to need to
    use this color wheel again. You never know if you may need to reverse
    what you’ve done.

    7. Locate the color wheel cover. It’s got a small green circuit
    board on top of it with a black/blue wires connected to it. Remove that
    plug. Also, and this is the trickiest part, remove the two cables
    coming from the color wheel. One is a copper-colored ribbon cable. That
    will just slide out easily. The other is a cable with two white and one
    blue wire. This one is tricky to remove, so you’ll need to ease it out.
    I pried it out with a jeweler’s screwdriver. DO NOT just pull on the wires.

    Note: A reader made the following excellent suggestion to
    avoid breaking the white connector on the end of the blue/white/white
    wire:

    Having replaced quite a few of these colorwheels as a
    Samsung service tech, I have found that you do not have to remove the
    blue/white wire from the DMD board (avoiding the risk of damage to the
    optical engine) There is enough slack in the wire to route it around
    the cover when removing it. You can then unplug the wire from the old
    colorwheel and plug it in the new one (the plastic tab will break off
    the old connector when you go to remove it,but it will still fit snugly
    on the new colorwheel) Using this method I have had no problems reusing
    the old connecting cable



  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 29, 2009

    If you have the problem and are thinking about fixing it yourself,
    it really isn’t that difficult. If you’ve ever taken your PC apart,
    this is not much different… The process involves about 20 screws, 5 or
    6 cables to unplug, and of course put it all back. The toughest part
    about these projects is knowing what to take out and where to look for
    the part you’re replacing. The first time, I took out quite a bit more
    screws and cables than necessa

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 29, 2009

    If you have the problem and are thinking about fixing it yourself,
    it really isn’t that difficult. If you’ve ever taken your PC apart,
    this is not much different… The process involves about 20 screws, 5 or
    6 cables to unplug, and of course put it all back. The toughest part
    about these projects is knowing what to take out and where to look for
    the part you’re replacing. The first time, I took out quite a bit more
    screws and cables than necessa

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  • 350 Answers

Please continue!

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

  • 4 more comments 
  • Jack Iaria
    Jack Iaria Jan 25, 2009

    Is your TV a SAMSUNG DLP TV Model HLN437W Rear Projection Digital HD?

    If so I found a TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE @

    http://support-us.samsung.com/cyber/popu...



    A probably INTERACTIVE ONLINE SERVICE REQUEST FORM @

    http://www.samsung.com/us/support/repair...



    PHONE #S FOR SAMSUNG:


    mobile phones: 1-888-987-HELP(4357)


    • Mon - Fri : 7am - 9pm (CST)
    • Sat : 9am - 6pm (CST)


    digital HDTVs: 1-800-SAMSUNG (1-800-726-7864)

    • Mon - Sun : 9am - Midnight (EST)


    printers: 1-800-SAMSUNG(726-7864)

    • Mon - Sun : 24hrs


    IT Products for Business: 1-866-SAM4BIZ(726-4249)

    • Mon - Fri : 9am - 9pm (EST)


    All other products: 1-800-samsung (1-800-726-7864)

    • Mon - Sun : 9am - 9pm (EST)



    To see PHOTOS of REPLACING a SAMSUNG DLP TV ballast go to:

    http://forum.doityourself.com/electrical...



    Hope this is helpful.



    Good Luck!

    Jack iaria

  • Jack Iaria
    Jack Iaria Jan 25, 2009

    You asked:

    "Do you thjnik these instructions will be the same for my tv ?"

    Please list the Make and Model of your TV!



    Jackiaria

  • Jack Iaria
    Jack Iaria Jan 26, 2009

    How is it going over there?

    Is FixYa helping you?

    Do you think your going to get the answer?



    Hoping to hear "Thanks Fixed" from you soon!

    Please keep us informed!



    Thank You for Your Business,



    jackiaria

  • Jack Iaria
    Jack Iaria Jan 28, 2009

    Dear FixYa Customer cleck1234,

    A bad ballast will cause everything else to run amok!
    Ballasts can not be tested with common testers due to high voltage and current issues!!! Do not attempt to test it yourself !!!

    I recommend calling Samsung or contacting them through their site that I listed for you below!

    If you insist on continually spending money and replacing parts then look to the ballast please!

    Good Luck!


    jackiaria

  • Jack Iaria
    Jack Iaria Jan 31, 2009

    When you first came to FixYa you said you had a whining noise which I might interpret as a sizzling ballast burning out!

    The ballast may still be sending electric through you system but a a lower current which would cause the circuit board in your system to go haywire and send all kinds of errors like when a car alternator goes bad it trips all the warning lights on the dash so..... Please have the ballast tested and if it's not ok replace it!

    Go to the following Web Site by clicking on the following http:// link @ http://www.ballastwise.com/form.asp for ballast purchase and support but first read this entire message!

    Remember DO NOT TO CLOSE the Ballast Site by clicking 'X' at the top of your screen! Use the ARROW AT THE TOP OF YOUR SCREEN TO COME BACK HERE to rate us or for more

    help!



    jackiaria


    For FixYa!!!! Please Rate Me!!!!

  • Jack Iaria
    Jack Iaria Feb 01, 2009

    Thank You for Your Response cleck1234,



    Dear FixYa Customers Concerning HIGH END TV Repair especially REAR PROJECTION

    TV ,



    I've had it with all the TV TECHS trying desperately to fix a lot of different HIGH END REAR PROJECTION and other HIGH END TV SYSTEMS!
    Don't you all get it .......
    THESE ARE SOME OF THE LARGEST MOST POWERFUL, SOPHISTICATED TECHNOLOGICAL COMPANIES IN THE WORLD AND MAYBE A LOT OF THEM GOT TOGETHER OR JUST DECIDED INDIVIDUALLY THAT TV SYSTEMS HAVE BEEN PERFECTED SO IF THEY'RE GOING TO SELL MORE IN THE FUTURE THE ONES THEY'VE SOLD MUST DIE OR COST ALMOST AS MUCH TO FIX AS TO BUY A NEWER IMPROVED ONE!


    HAS ANYONE EVER SEEN A TV LAST MORE THAN 10 YEARS IN THE LAST DECADE?



    IF YOU HAVE I'D SURE LIKE A LIST OF THE MANUFACTURERS TO HELP ME SOLVE THIS THEORY!


    WE ALL NEED TO START TAKING PRIDE IN CREATING THINGS THAT DON'T BREAK AND STOP WORRYING ABOUT SALES NOT RISING BECAUSE THE NEW THINGS WE WILL CREATE WILL MAKE US BUY THEM ANYWAY UNLESS WE CAN'T AFFORD THEM BUT THEN AT LEAST WE WOULD STILL HAVE OUR PRIDE OF CRAFTSMANSHIP FROM BUILDING THINGS THAT DON'T BREAK!



    I recommend buying the newest latest model if you can afford it or buying a cheap set while waiting for the price of the high end tvs to go down!



    For Repair Men & Women....Tell this story and try to remember we can't always fix things and make a profit!



    Some sites you may be interested in following: @
    http://www.electronicrepairguide.com/
    http://www.electronicrepairguide.com/tes...



    jackiaria

    Hoping This Helps You Fix This Problem!

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  • 199 Answers

No the ballast will not stop the colour wheel to spin or function properly.the faulty bulb can stop this but you said bulb is proper.then its only 1 issue to be checked the connection of the colour wheel.the wires may be loose or not connected properly.also check out the area where the wire is connected it may be internally loose. or the other problem is the faulty board .

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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What is the ballastAn electronic ballast is a device that provides steady electical current for the starting up and operation of a lamp.
When to Replace the BallastIf your lamp is not starting up and you are confident that the lamp is good (e.g., it is new), it could be a faulty ballast.

for How to Replace the Ballast
you will have to click this link and read the instructions which r mentioned with steps to follow and also the diagrams
http://www.consumermeet.com/entry/samsung-dlp-ballast.html



thanks.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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As for the ballast... If you have a weak ballast, meaning the capacitor on it doesn't hold a charge anymore, it could cause the TV to stop as well. Usually the ballast will arc and give the lamp the 15-20k ignition, but then it has to keep it powered, .as after replacing the colour wheel if you get the same problem its quite possible that the ballast is the problem ands  needs to be replaced.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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  • 89 Answers

Hard resets work great when its a simple program cross reference problem but it sounds like you have a module that has shorted out. your best bet is to get a hold of a wire and chip diagram with full engineering specs and trouble shoot the board. other wise a professional TV repairer may need to be summoned to correct the problem.


good luck

Jason

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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Press And Hold The On/Off Button Till The Unit Beeps And Release This Will Cause Reset.

Thanks For Using Fixya.com
Sincerely,
Michael Scott

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

  • Michael Fisher
    Michael Fisher Jan 23, 2009

    Yeah You Dont Have To Bypass It You Can Just Put Something there to push it for you. or some tape to hold it down.

  • Michael Fisher
    Michael Fisher Jan 24, 2009

    Ok So The Unit Was Squealing Previously Before You Replaced The Color Wheel But Was Working Correct? So Now That You've Replaced The Color Wheel The Unit isn't Working I Dont Think Anything Went Bad I Just Thing Maybe One Of The Connections You Made Is Either Dirty Or Not Hooked Up Correctly. I Would Suggest Taking Everything Out That You Took Out When You Changed The Color Wheel And Rechecking That There Are not Any Disconnected Cables And That Every Thing Is Hooked Up Correctly. Then Once You Have Everything Back In Please Plug The Unit In And Hold On/Off For 30 Seconds On Startup. If The Problem Still Persists Take It Back Apart With The Old Color Wheel And See If It Will Work With The Old One. If It Does It Will Indicate Something Is Wrong With The New One Or Its Not The Right One. Please Let Me Know Your Results If You Decide To Fallow My Post Directions.
    Thanks For Using Fixya.com
    Sincerely,
    Michael Scott


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You can try a hard reset by leaving it unplugged for at least 4 hours or overnight. Is your sleep timer on by chance?
might be a signal board

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

  • 10 more comments 
  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 23, 2009

    the ballast possibly the culprit

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 23, 2009

    The only two things left are the lamp ballast and There is a safety latch where the lamp door closes you have to make
    sure that the latch is getting depressed when you put the lamp in

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 23, 2009

    No it doesn't.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 23, 2009

    I don't believe it does. I am going by memory.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 25, 2009

    NO DON'T DO IT. Your tv keeps track of lamp hours. Since your replaced the bulb, the next step is to reset the lamp hour counter.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 25, 2009

    I will try to figure out how to reset the lamp unless you have a service manual.
    Also Note that the ballast for the lamp (probably contains some sort of
    DC-to-high-voltage converter?) will eventually fail, too

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 25, 2009

    Here is lamp resetting instructions for most tv's (didn't have list of brands)




    DISCLAIMER

    Let my preface by saying that you should be extremely careful servicing your own TV,
    particularly the halogen bulb on a DLP TV, as they are very expensive,
    get very hot, and contain hazardous materials. If you don't know what you
    are doing, you can injure yourself and/or ruin your TV. If you aren't
    comfortable doing it, then don't.
    That said...



    UH OH

    On 9-30-06, an orange LED indicator lit up on my
    LG RU44SZ61D DLP TV
    above the lamp icon.
    Not knowing what it meant, but having a bad feeling about it,
    I consulted the manual,
    which said that the indicator was a lamp end-of-life indicator and that I would
    need to replace the halogen lamp which provides the projection lighting
    for my TV. Wanting to do it myself and save the service cost,
    I ordered a replacement halogen lamp (an
    alternate source is www.dlplampsource.com).



    THE FIX

    Turns out it took a couple more months for the lamp to finally fail, and
    on 12-23-06, I had to replace it. The TV would not come on--it would try,
    but then the lamp indicator would flash red for a couple of seconds and
    the TV would turn back off. I pulled out the replacement lamp I had ordered,
    grabbed my trusty screwdriver (a fine-point philips with a long shaft ~8" was
    the perfect tool), and unplugged the TV.
    I got the
    plastic lamp access cover off (on the right side of my TV, around the back,
    near the bottom--two screws). At this point, be very careful touching anything inside
    if your lamp has just been on--items may be very hot.
    I then took out the cage that goes around the lamp (three screws) and drew
    a diagram of how the cables were attached to the halogen bulb. After that, I
    un-did the cables affixed to the lamp itself, took out the top bracket holding
    the bulb in place, and loosened the other two brackets. I then gingerly
    pulled the old bulb out, put the new one in, and reversed all my steps.
    The TV turned on just fine when I was done, but the lamp's
    orange end-of-life indicator LED
    was still on. It was at this point that I finally figured out how to
    get my LG TV to show me how many hours were on the lamp (see below) by
    poking through forums on the web. Some of the more helpful forums were
    AV Forums
    and Digital Forum.
    I reset the lamp hours (see below)
    and voila, the end-of-life indicator went out.
    The only thing I didn't do
    correctly, as I gather from reading some forums, is that I handled the new
    bulb with my bare fingers. You're supposed to
    handle the bulbs with rubber gloves
    since the residue from your fingers can be an issue when the bulb heats
    up (doesn't seem to be a problem after a few hours of viewing, though).




    THE LIE

    The LG manual doesn't say how long the
    lamp is supposed to last, but the salesman at the place where I purchased
    the TV assured me it would last 10,000 hours. He told me the lamps cost
    around $300 (try $375), so I did some quick math in my head and figured
    that 10,000 hours would get me through at least 5-6 years (which turned
    out to be a good guess).
    On 12-23-06, when my lamp failed after about 2.2 years of use,
    I had 4,250 hours on the lamp (see some caveats about this in
    the updates section below).
    Spending $400 every two years on the set is certainly a
    different ball game than every six years, and I've also read on forums
    that the ballast for the lamp (probably contains some sort of
    DC-to-high-voltage converter?) will eventually fail, too!
    [Note: bulbs are much less expensive as of 2008--see updates below.]
    I've found conflicting reports about DLP projection TV
    lamp life. This site says 10,000 hours, but
    this
    one
    (which was originally at
    this link) says only 1000(!) to 6000 hours.
    -->
    Consumer Reports had a recent
    issue that claimed a typical life of about 5,000 hours--close to what I got.
    This is the dirty little secret
    that the DLP vendors are sweeping under the rug.

    And, to add insult
    to injury, you can't just throw away the old lamp, because it contains
    mercury!




    CONCLUSION

    I'll see how long my new lamp
    lasts, but I am disappointed in DLP sets because of this
    lamp life issue. Don't get me wrong. I do like my TV--I think
    the picture quality
    is quite good. Monday Night Football broadcasts in high def are just
    gorgeous, but my TV also needed two separate repairs during the first year
    of its life (under warranty, fortunately). At this point
    I would not recommend DLP TVs
    to people interested in HDTV,
    especially if LCD sets continue to come down in price (though I'd want
    to make sure there wasn't a similar life issue with backlight on
    whatever LCD TV set I'd purchase).



    UPDATES

    12-24-06: (One day after posting!) I received an e-mail which claims
    that "bulbs manufactured early on didn't come close to the suggested
    life span of the manufacturer but improvements to the bulbs and process
    since should have them coming very close to the suggested life span."
    Like I said, we'll see how my next bulb does.



    2-28-07: Here's a thread about
    another problem that a few DLP owners are having with an uneven display.



    11-7-07: I received an e-mail from a user
    who has this same LG DLP set and states that he got 4,500 hours on his
    first bulb and 8,000 hours on his second bulb, so that is consistent
    with the information I received on 12-24-06.



    1-31-08: The cost of the bulb seems to be running around $200 these days.



    4-5-08: I just had a user e-mail me that he got
    nearly 8,500 hours on his first lamp (he purchased his set very close to
    when I purchased mine), so perhaps my lamp life was on the short side
    of the average.



    5-1-08: Here's a bulb for $130.



    9-25-08: I've had two e-mails in the last month or so
    to let me know that the lamp life in DLP TVs can be extended by decreasing
    the factory brightness and/or contrast settings
    , so make sure you don't
    have these set unnecessarily high.



    LAMP HOUR RESET ON LG RU44SZ61D DLP TV


    Note: This does not require a service remote.

    1. With the TV on, press and hold the MENU button on the TV front panel.

    2. While holding that button, press and hold the MENU button on your remote.

    3. Hold both buttons for ~5 seconds until the service menu comes up on the TV.

    4. Release the remote MENU button first, then the TV MENU button.

    5. Press and hold the ENTER (or OK) button on the TV front panel (see Notes 2 and 3).

    6. While holding that button, press and hold the MUTE button on the remote.

    7. Hold both buttons until the Lamp Life Hours show up on your TV screen.

    8. Release the MUTE button first, then the ENTER button on the TV front panel.

    9. Make a note of the lamp hours if you want.

    10. To reset the lamp hours, press the SELECT button (the one between
    the four arrow keys with two concentric circles on it) on your remote.

    11. It will ask you to confirm the reset--press SELECT again to confirm.

    Note 1: To verify you've reset the hours, you can repeat steps 1-9 above and then just press the EXIT button on your remote.

    Note 2: One person on a forum claimed that steps 5. and 6. above have to be switched.

    Note 3: For a 44SZ8D TV, replace step 5. with:

    5. Press ENTER on the TV to enter the position adjustment

    5a. Press and hold ENTER on the TV front panel (the TV will re-enter
    the menu; keep holding ENTER while you press and hold MUTE on the
    remote. After approx 5 seconds, the lamp life counter will appear).





  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 28, 2009

    The problem you are describing seems to be a Ballast issue... Does your
    TV make a clicking noise when the power is pressed? A single "strong"
    click, or multipple "weak" clicks?

    If you would like to
    replace the ballst in Your HL-S or HL-T series TV (Which includes your
    HL-S5687W) you can purchase it at the link below for only $66 bux:

    http://www.discount-merchant.com/product...

    Step by step detailed installation guide is available here:

    http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/samsung/bp4...

    .
    .
    .


    When
    the TV went out, did you hear a whining or screetching noise? The HL-S
    and HL-T series lamp based projection sets are notorious for failing of
    the colorwheel... Colorwheel can be found at the below link for
    $79.99...

    http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung... p/samsungcolor_wheel_bp96-01579a.htm

    Installation guide can be found here:
    http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/samsung/bp9...

    I hope this helps... i don't see anything else that might be wrong with your TV other than the Lamp, ColorWheel, or Ballast...

    Please let me know the results.. It's good information for all of us here!

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 28, 2009

    take out and clean the large fan on the center left as you face the
    back of the set. So far, so good. To check if this is your problem,
    turn the tv on while holding a flash light behind the set. Both vented
    fans should turn on;

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 28, 2009

    you might just want to try and take the wires of the lamp door. try it while they are disconnected and then strip and twist together and try it that way. It would either be the lamp door switch sensor, ballast, or solder welds

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 31, 2009

    I remember reading somewhere that it can be tricky to get the
    electrical plug from the TV to plug into the lamp housing
    correctly/completely when reinstalling the lamp assembly.

    continuous blinking green light indicates that the capacitors have
    failed on the DM pwb. You need the V26 DLP DM repair kit which is
    available at the following link under their repair category.

    http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/


  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 03, 2009

    CHECK THE RIBBON FROM COLOR WHEEL!!!!!!!! IT MIGHT BE BACKWARDS!!!!!

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  • 177 Answers

Hello and welcome to FixYa!,

Try Here For Instructions

Here As Well

Hope this Works, --P3NGYJ03

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

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  • Samsung Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Ensure that the Color wheel is well mounted, the ehining noise is from the wheel , not from the lamp.

Contact the seller if you still get the problem, the new color wheel may be for a different model , or have a problem.

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

  • Ginko
    Ginko Jan 26, 2009

    Your TV is quite an expensive set, if you have not managed to sort out lamp and color wheel on all this time, it is better calling a local Tech.

    Now that you have parts, cost for fitting lamp and wheel will be $80/$100, call few local shop and find who has good fares for such a basic repair, instead of risking to damage further an expensive set.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Jan 28, 2009

    Apparently there is a jumper on the color wheel the you need to remove to fix this problem.

    See solution here: colors on my hlp5063wx are all wrong


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  • 378 Answers

How to replace the colour wheel with diagram and procedure
http://www.jangro.com/a/2006/07/24/samsung-dlp-replace-color-wheel/

how to replace the lamp in 5 minutes with diagram and procedure
http://www.jangro.com/a/2006/08/03/how-to-change-your-samsung-dlp-lamp-in-5-minutes


the noise which you r getting can be due to the wheel not fitted correctly or the board is faulty so the lamplight is flashing.check out the 2 link above and try it again.it should solve your problem.

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

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Unplug set now take out and make sure it is seayed in there right ! IT may take a few tries!

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

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  • 67 Answers

Hello,

Often, the lamps in Samsung TV's don't seat very well into the socket. The lamp ballast (or power supply) will shift a little back and forth. Unplug the set for 15 minutes, then try re-seating the lamp a little better. After the door is back on, plug it back in and see if it will fire up.

Also, there are a few instances of the rubber gasket on some color wheels falling inside of the color wheel chamber. You might want to try re-seating that as well. But if the lamp light is flashing, it is probably a lamp issue.

Hope this helps you...



Posted on Jan 22, 2009

  • waynejamescm
    waynejamescm Jan 22, 2009

    Sometimes, you have to leave it unplugged long enough to clear any errors that might be present. If it fails to start up, it might hold that in memory and continue to give it to you. I've had that on Samsung DLP's before.

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Check if the lamp and the wheels are mounted properly.
It might fix the problem

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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  • Samsung Master
  • 70,387 Answers

U should request a refund from Fixya and take this set into a factory repair facility.

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

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Tv keeps shutting off. Currently no soud or picture


The set has a color wheel which may be bad, it often makes a high pitched or fan like sound prior to failure--it can even be a grinding noise.

I would with set unplugged remove the lamp cartridge and look where it faces---the color wheel can be seen.

What you are looking for is wheel shattered or missing any of the colored segments? If wheel does not turn or runs too slow set will detect this and shut lamp off etc.

8_29_2012_5_51_59_pm.jpg

Aug 29, 2012 | Samsung HL-S4266W 42" HDTV

2 Answers

Dell 2300mp



Replacing the lamp module requires special considerations:
  1. Turn off the projector.
  2. Wait 30 minutes for the projector to cool down and then unplug it.
  3. On the bottom of the projector, loosen the two screws on the lamp cover and then remove the cover.
  4. Loosen the two screws on the lamp module and pull out the module.
  5. Insert the new lamp module and tighten the two screws.
  6. Install the cover and tighten the two screws.
  7. Turn on the projector. If the lamp does not turn on after the warm-up period, try reinstalling the lamp again.
  8. Press enter on the projector or on the remote control to open the on-screen menu.
  9. Press the up (c00589410.gif ) or down (c00589411.gif ) arrow to select Setup and then press the right (c00589412.gif ) arrow.
  10. Press the up (c00589410.gif ) or down (c00589411.gif ) arrow to select Reset lamp hours and then press enter .

Jun 18, 2008 | Dell 2300MP Multimedia Projector

Tip

Do it yourself Samsung Color wheel replacement


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This varies a little depending on model number of the set.

Usually a bad color wheel will produce a high pitched sound or even a grinding noise; some sets may actually shut down if the wheel is bad or shattered.

To determine if you have a bad color wheel:
  1. Turn set off and wait for main fan to shut off.
  2. Unplug the set.
  3. Remove the lamp door and then remove the lamp.
  4. In the direction the lamp faces you will see a round opening; the color wheel is facing this opening. It is a round plastic wheel with colored segments—we want to look to see if any of the segments are missing; a shattered wheel should be clear to see.
  5. If the wheel is shattered or makes the high pitched fan like sound you can with the model number go online to someplace like Ebay with the model number of your set and find a part number and replacement wheel for your set---most of these are 70 to 90 plus shipping—make sure you get the right part.
  6. The wheel turns at about 14,000 rpm and eventually the motor seizes up causing this problem.
  7. Depending on model number there are some variations on how to replace it; but for the most part it requires the following.
  8. With the set unplugged remove the entire back cover.
  9. Locate the optical light engine dead center in the middle of the set. Some models have a large square box in front of it that you have to unbolt and remove plugs from one side—mark the plugs so when you remove them you can put them back in the exact same place.
  10. The Light engine has to be pulled out of the set to replace the color wheel; this kind of repair usually takes less than an hour from start to finish.
  11. Once you get the engine out you will find a somewhat square black plastic shroud on the right side of it----3 philips screws secure it to the frame of the engine.
  12. Remove the screws and you should be able to pull the shroud up and away.
  13. The Color wheel has two cables coming out of it; one is a 3 or 4 wire small square plug and the other is a flat ribbon cable. Be very careful when you remove the plug with wires—some people break the wires and then have to get the plug out of the socket with care. Both plugs connect the color wheel to the optical engine. The flat orange ribbon cable only has contacts on one side-WHEN YOU REMOVE IT NOTE WHICH DIRECTION THE CONTACTS ARE ON---if you put it in backwards(it can be done) the lamp will not turn on.
  14. You need to be careful when you replace the shroud over the color wheel so that the two cables(the ribbon cable and the other one) do not get pinched by it.
  15. With the wheel replaced; install the light engine back in place.
  16. All these sets have a safety switch on the back edge of the frame---it is a lever that will not allow the set to be turned on with the back removed. After you have installed the light engine back if you want to see if it worked; tape or hold the lever(usually blue and on the right side as you look from the back).
  17. If the set comes on and the lamp comes on do not look directly at the lamp---Once you see you have a working set turn it off and wait for the lamp fan to shut off in back—usually a few minutes.
  18. Bolt everything back and replace the back cover also---this should complete the repair.
  19. Some of these sets after you do this will work but the color will look off--flesh tones will be off--if this happens there is a small jumper on the metal box on the light engine that needs to be located and pulled out--places that sell the color wheel do not tell people about this. SD TECH

on Dec 08, 2009 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

After a few minutes of being on my Samsung HLN507w dlp tv the picture will freeze and turn black and white, but the sound still works, I have to unplug the tv to reset it then it will work again for a...


This tv have a colors wheel design in it.The tv make loud grinding motor noises or pictures flashes or freeze and pictures turn in black&white with sound.The tv colors wheel it is dying or worn out already.Don't tries to change the tv colors wheel ur self.If u don't any mechanical skills,because the colors wheel it sit way back of the tv,must take out many mechanical parts before even can come to the tv colors wheel itself to replace it.Best to hire a tv tech. to change the colors wheel,so no problems for tv funstions for later or damages more parts on the tv set,if u install the new colors wheel in the tv wrong way.

May 12, 2011 | Samsung HLN507 50" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

My HLN5065WX will turn on, play for about 1 minute, flash funky colors then go black. Once this happens you can not shut down the TV. You must unplug to turn off.


Bad Color Wheel, its located behind the Lamp Pull Lamp out and use a Flash Light You should be able to see it.
Encompass Parts Distribution 1-800-638-3328
Samsung Parts.com 1-800-627-4368
You can also go to Encompass website and look up your Model#

Oct 27, 2010 | Samsung HLN5065W 50" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

HLR6167WAX/XAA samsung tv wont turn on i already replace the lamp and the ballast but i still get the flaashing light


Tv also have a colors wheel.Now u turn the tv on,u hear squiling,motor or whinning noises?Yes,the colors wheel is dead,replaced the colors wheel.The tv will,work agian.

Aug 05, 2010 | Samsung Televison & Video

2 Answers

The power swith will turn it on and off by itself. Won't stop


This tv have a colors wheel.U hear grinding noises? Picture flickers black&white.That the indication the colors wheel is dead,need a new colors.U have Lamp LED front Lit up or flashes?That mean the projection lamp life is over,require a new projection lamp.U hear alots of clicking sound?That mean the Ballast board is dead,this board help to ignite the projection lamp.

Jul 10, 2010 | Samsung DLP HL-P5663W 56" TV

1 Answer

Akai PT50DL24 50 in DLP Rear Projection TV-NO PIC OR SOUND


check for popped or raised tops on caps in power supply. also try unplugging set for 5 minutes and resetting it. How about does your color wheel spin up? if your color wheel don't startup then your tv will also shut down. also check all fans they all should be running at turn on. if all fails i would say its your light engine.

Apr 10, 2008 | Akai PT5598HD 55" Rear Projection...

3 Answers

Samsung DLP will not turn on


If your having the "3 light" problem it could be an indication of a bad lamp however if there is a buzzing or a grinding sound it could be one of two moving parts. The color wheel or the cooling fan. I would go the cheaper route and replace the color wheel first. The thing is the lamp will not turn on if there is a problem with one of the other two parts. TRUST me ... I've replaced all three parts just to find out it was only the cooling fan. (at least I have another lamp handy when the new one goes out). The motor on the cooling fan is too small for such a big fan so I would definately try it first. It's a big problem with the DLP tvs. Hope this helps.

Jan 25, 2008 | Samsung HL-R6167W 61" HDTV

1 Answer

Tv won't work


check your lamp it might have gone bad if not then on these sets the color wheel goes bad if you get junk on the screen like broken bits of info and you might get a weird sound like computer noise then it might be your color wheel it is a small round glass wheel i just checked to see if your model is in this list of samsung color wheel and yes it is

Nov 30, 2007 | Samsung HLP4663W 46" Rear Projection HDTV

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