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Sometimes cameras get "confused" if the battery is allowed to die and is replaced. Remove the batteries and wait 30 minutes for the camera to reset then put the batteries back in. This works on rare occasions and does not cost anything to try.
Be sure your mode dial is not in the auto position. If it is, the camera will only function with the lense also locked to the auto position, which will either be the lowest aperture (highest number) or sometimes an "A" setting separate from the normal aperture settings. That's generally what this type of indication means on program/manual models - that you're trying to use manual settings, when the camera is set up for auto program exposure.
Clean the contact inside the camera and the battery cap with a pencil eraser so that the areas that touch the batteries are clean and shiny. Make sure the batteries are placed in the cap so the positive side is up.
A few things to try, based on my FG's operation:
- The most obvious- are your batteries good? Correct type?
If they are:
- When all is well the red LED metering lights will appear in the viewfinder window on the right side, in the range of shutter speed numbers.
- The red LED metering lights are only activated when you press the shutter release button (halfway). The lights go out after a few seconds if the shutter button is not held down. Just tap the shutter button to reactivate them.
- The shutter speed setting dial must NOT be on B (Bulb) or M90 (non-electronic Manual mode) if you want to see the red LED metering lights. The lights do not operate on these two settings because metering is irrelevant here (you'd be doing the metering, not the camera).
- If you're in P (Program mode) the lens aperture must be set all the way to the smallest setting (usually f22 or f16, depending on the lens). If not, you'll only see blinking lights at the top and bottom of the shutter speed range on the right in the viewfinder. That's a reminder to set the lens to the smallest (highest numeric) aperture.
Hope these help. The FG is a great little camera.
I don't know if there is a mirror lock up button on this camera or not. Some have it for slow exposes. Nikon does have a technical phone number or place on their website to contact them. I had a D100 that had the ERR message show up on it, and it cost $400 to repair. But look for the mirror lock button.
Not necessarily. The EM has an M90 setting which will fire the shutter at 1/90th of a second. The meter is inactive on this setting. It was put on the EM so that if the batteries fail, you can shoot at 1/90th and take a guess at the exposure. There is also a small button (blue or chrome, depending on the production run) which lights up a red LED if the batteries are good. The light meter doesn't work until the frame counter is at 1 or higher. Before the #1, the shutter will always fire at 1/2000th of a second to speed up the film loading process. You can tell that the meter is working by observing the meter's scale/needle on the inside of the viewfinder. If it is pointing out of the red zone, it's OK to shoot (proper exposure). If the needle is in the red zone (indicating under or over exposure) the camera will "beep" as an audible warning. Check the battery condition first.
Was the battery's removed before storing camera? If not corrosion on battery cap and contacts in battery holder. Clean with a pencil eraser, careful with the contact in battery comp.
If not fixed then you have flex circuit problems and that means your camera is a" paper weight" as no parts are available for this model.
It sounds like your cameras need a CLA (clean, lube and adjustment). Occasionally when this has happened to me, i noticed that it was the foam on the mirror bumper that had gotten all deteriorated and gummy and as such the mirror would 'stick' to it when it flipped up. Changing the foam seals might do the trick.
Switching to M90 means that the camera is in Manual mode whereby it is not relying on the electronics at all in the camera. When your battery dies in mid shoot, you switch to M90 and you shoot manually at a fixed speed of 1/90 second. Of course your light meter won't have power, but if you meter manually or go by the 'Sunny 16' rule, you can adjust the aperture and get your shots.
Yes, moving the shutter dial to M90 should release the mirror back down, if it is stuck up.I'm assuming of course that you didn't manually set the mirror up anyway... Test it out with brand new batteries!
Set your camera to B and release the shutter ( camera will work in this mode without batteries ) if you can wind ok and release shutter fine then all you need is new batteries.
If however your camera is not working when set to B then it is either the shutter or the transport mechanism that need looking at.
From experience ( have repaired 100s of Me-supers ) it is likely that your shutter needs attention : rubber components ( and foam rubber ) inside the shutter ( and the mirror box locking mechanism especially ) have perished and need replacing.