Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top Load Washer

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How to take apart a Whirlpool top loader washing machine

I have the post off and out, need help taking the "colander" inner basin out
Whirlpool top loader washing machine

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  • pmama Jan 17, 2009

    The thing is that our water is very hard and the scum and scale build up is horrific and over time causes a very foul stench. Last time I cleaned the machine I did all the steps you mentioned but could not figure out how to get the basket out. I just scrubbed in between the tub and the basket by hand...tearing up the back of my hand. I was hoping this time to be able to figure out how to remove the basket so I could scrap the scum (6in deep) and wipe it out of the bottom of the tub. Thinking ahead (and back), I purchased a long brush last week and took the machine apart this morning. Having searched for a week and again this morning on how to take the basket out and not finding any directions to do so, I just proceeded with cleaning the tub by hand again this time using a wire brush and the long extended brush. All is clean, hopefully all the scum has now been rinsed through the several cycles I have run to clear the nasty water. Thank you so much for your informative response, even though it was all information I had already known and administered.

  • Titansurface Mar 16, 2009

    Our Whirlpool direct drive is leaking near the center post, and your instructions are just what I needed.  I am struggling to get it apart despite your detailed instructions.  I am also handicapped by not being able to find the model number.  Reply is not necessary but if you can help great.

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If you have not taken the exterior washer casing off, the first steps will explain how to accomplish this:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.


Once the casing is removed, you should have full access the the washer interior components. Since you have mentioned you taken the "internal post" off (I'm assuming this is your agitator), I will spare the steps in involved in accomplishing that task.

Next, follow these series of steps:

1. Remove the tub ring. This is the cylindrical donut shaped ring attached to the top of the wash tub. This ring needs to be removed in order to accommodate the removal of the inner spin basket. The tub ring comes off by placing a screwdriver under the series of the tabs that hold it in place and GENTLY prying them up until they release. Be careful not to break off the tabs, or crack the wash tub.

2. Remove the spanner nut that is under the agitator. This holds the inner spin basket to center post.

3. With the spanner nut removed, the spin basket should lift straight up and out. Sometimes the basket will stick to the center-post and may required some "coaxing" to get it free. This can be accomplished by grabbing the rim of the spin basket and prying up on one side, then the other, in an attempt to rock the basket side to side.

Searspartsdirect.com has excellent exploded view diagrams that you can use as a reference. Simply type in your model number and look under the "Agitator, Basket and Tub" heading. The tub ring gasket, I mention below, is listed as item 6. Appliancepartspros.com also has these same drawings.

Some things to consider:

If you remove the tub ring, it is recommended that you replace the seal on the ring before reassembly. Once the tub seal is broken, it can leak if the seal is not replaced.

When reinstalling the exterior cabinet, follow these steps:

1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

If you have questions, or need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

PS What is the reason for removing the spin basket? Anything else I can help you with?


Posted on Jan 17, 2009

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  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jan 17, 2009

    "Thanks for Trying?" I gave you ALL the steps necessary on how to disassemble your washer, and followed up by asking if you needed further assistance. You mentioned NOTHING about your water problem, the reason(s) why you needed to remove the inner spain basket, whether or not the model number(s) you listed this under was correct, nor did you mention that you had already knew how to take the washer apart and applied any of the steps given. I do this in my spare time and do it for FREE. It took me quite some time to research, view parts diagrams, and draft a response to top ensure you had the correct information.

  • billewer525 Sep 03, 2010

    Great help, but need assistance as to how to properly secure the casing back onto the base. I imagine that there are some slots on the base that need to be engaged, but I have not located them. The machine is all back together and working but the casing is not secure to the base. Any pointers would be appreciated.

    Thanks for putting this info up.

    Bill

  • brandi stockdale Dec 12, 2012

    Jeff, i would like to thank you for researching and posting this it makes it soooo much easier for a housewife who's husband works sixty hours a week to be able to know how to properly dissasemble and reassemble appliances i have tried to do it without instrction before and it was aggrevating and time consuming to say the least. thank you

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Had a terrible mildew problem after 7 years of use. Found your instructions and they enabled me to remove case from my whirlpool machine and clean the outside of the tub and the water tank (? correct term). I used a long skinny spatula to scrape off the major crud at the top of the tank. Sprayed the tank wall and the outside of the drum with Aqua EZ cartridge and pool filter cleaner (from Lowe's- great on fiberglass boats also) and then used a long skinny brush that is used to clean the fins on a refrigerator to scrub the whole mess clean. Rinsed with garden hose from outside. The whole mess is clean, spotless, and smells like lemons. I wanted to thank you for taking the time to post the reply to the original poster. More importantly, my wife wants to thank you for taking the time and trouble to help others. We all know, when mamma's happy.... Again, many thanks!

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

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HEY CAN I HAVE A DIAGRAM ABOUT WHIRPOOL GOLD ULTIMATE CARE II WITH MODEL NO. KTL SVO7015-1001

JST SEND TO MY EMAIL ADD: dels_mecs@yahoo.com

thnks and God Bless

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

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1 Answer

Water continues to flow into my whirlpool top loader serial #2dwtw4740yq0


Your inlet water valve likely needs replaced. The water supply hoses behind the machine attach to the the water valve on the machine. You will need full model number usually found around inner door to find correct valve.

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Purchased my Whirlpool front loader 4/2004, we are on our 7th bellow, new inner...


This advice is for the Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet FRONT LOADER style washing machines. A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
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